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Category: Anza-Borrego

15 January 2015

Soaking at Agua Caliente

Truckcamper at Rockhouse Trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI planned to pull out of my three week boondocking spot off Rockhouse Trail Monday, not too early in the morning, with a trip to town then mosey southward to treat myself to a soaking at Agua Caliente.  That means hot water in Spanish, just in case you didn’t know.

That’s confusing

Sunday afternoon my fridge went out, for several hours.  It would click but not light.  I turned it on and off and on and off…..  Nothing.  Nada.  The stove lit so I knew there was propane.  I smelled no ammonia.  I changed propane tanks even though the first one didn’t show empty.  Still nothing.  Ice cream was starting to get soft and there was more than I could eat.  Many suggestions came over Facebook.  Then after cooking dinner I tried again.  Click, pop, poof.  The fridge lights and runs for quite a while to catch up.  Maybe there was air in the lines.  And maybe I should keep a spare thermal coupler on board.

That’s stupid

The next morning I discovered both truck batteries were dead.  Lesson learned that the batteries are hooked together so I wasn’t just running off the auxiliary but the starter battery too.  Thank goodness just before my phone went dead I get message to Lynda asking for a jump before they went to town.  Howard came over, jumped the truck and I let it run for over an hour.

That’s luxury

Henderson Canyon Road Borrego Springs CaliforniaAbout 11am I headed to town via a stop for a 10 lb bag of red grapefruits for $4.  Can you believe that price.  They and oranges grow in this valley.  Topped off the fuel, filled water jugs and picked up a few groceries.  Then on impulse, and a growling stomach, stopped for lunch at Los Jilbertos Taco Shop and enjoyed a delicious Chili Rellenos with rice and beans.

CA78 Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaHardly any traffic on the drive to Agua Caliente which was not the case the last time between the holidays.

 Truckcamper Agua Caliente campground CaliforniaArrived at Agua Caliente before the 2pm check-in time and Diane, the Park Attendant, let me drive through to pick out my spot.  It’s OK but I wouldn’t want to live here.  Close together with limited vegetation and unlevel sites.  And I got one of the “shady spots”.  With water and electric, no sewer, site costs $29/night.  Absolutely no phone or internet.  I think one night will probably do it.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s not a bad place, just not really my cup of tea.

Indoor pool building Agua Caliente campground CaliforniaI immediately went to soak for 1 1/2 delightful hours at 101F in the indoor pool.  The outdoor pool isn’t currently heated.  I thought this was natural thermal.  Not at all crowded, I never shared the large pool with more than three others.  I planned to return after dinner.

So because I have electricity I’m living it up.  Used the microwave to heat up leftover lunch.  Turned the fridge to electric to save propane.  And I have a heater going so I’m toasty.

Entry to pool Agua Caliente CaliforniaThat’s bogus!

After dinner I returned to the pool with my damp bathing suit and planned to warm it and me up in the shower before another good soaking.  I just hate putting on a cold clammy suit.  The shower wasn’t even warmish so I shivered into my suit only to discover the gate to the pool locked.  Guess I should have read the sign.  Open from 10:30am-5pm for everybody and 9:30-10:30p for adults only.  I’ll be in bed by then.

Last light on mts Agua Caliente CaliforniaAlthough the park isn’t terribly crowded it’s still noisy from air traffic.  Someone by the pool said we’re near an airport.  Probably military as they’re all over the southwest desert.  But really, 8pm and not only listening to helicopters but actually feeling their vibration.

Crissal Thrasher Agua Caliente campground Anza-Borrego Desert CaliforniaCrissal Thrasher seen in camp

I figured on soaking one more time in the morning before remembering, not until 10:30.  And although check out time isn’t until 1pm this place is many hours from anywhere other than the surrounding Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  And I wanted to explore another palm grove not far down the road before hitting the highway, doing some shopping and getting to my next boondocking spot.  Maybe somewhere along the way find enough signal to post this.

Now about that shower.  It takes quarters.  Can you believe that?  Paid almost $30 to get one soak and no shower.

OK, the whole place isn’t that bad.  It’s very clean and does have sites for tents to full hook-ups and small cabins.  But even without electricity, I prefer where I am boondocking for the night at Mountain Palm Springs.

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12 January 2015

Hike to Palm Canyon Anza-Borrego

The gift of water brings life and death to the desert which is evident along the hike to Palm Canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  The average rainfall here is 6 inches and the recent snowfall only happens about every 10 years said Nancy who’s lived and hiked in the San Diego area over 30 years.

Sunrise Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaNo rush Thursday as I watched the sunrise but I had chores, dump and fill holding tanks, after three weeks of boondocking, at the Palm Canyon campground in Anza-Borrego State Park.  The day use fee of $7 meant I could stay in the area for the day so I decided to hike Palm Canyon where the creation of the park began in the 1930s with the protection of this palm-filled canyon.  Palm canyon cuts through the San Ysidro Mountains just west of Borrego Springs.

Palm Canyon trail head Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Rocky steps Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

CCC built shelter Borrego Palm Canyon campground Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe trail is pretty easy mostly walking in a wash with not too soft of sand, some minor steps up rocks moved here by water and some likely placed by the CCC during the 1930s.   There are also some stone structures in the campground they built.

Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThis obviously well maintained trail is marked with stone and wood plus numbered poles corresponding with information in the trail guide.

Palm trunks in wash Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaHowever I wouldn’t want to walk this wash trail after heavy rain, especially during July and August monsoon.  The power of water is quite evident having brought death to weak and old trees during a raging flood that ripped shallow roots from a tenacious hold leaving scattered palm trunks behind.

Tilted & varnished rock Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Desert varnish Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe mountains of rock that tower above the canyon show how geologic forces have tipped and eroded the ancient metamorphic layers into sharp fins.  The desert varnish is actually a thin coating of microscopic bacteria colonies that take on a blackish or reddish color by absorbing manganese and iron from the atmosphere.  Giant boulders from above eventually break loose to bounce and roll into the wash where water smooths and moves them down stream like rearranging nature’s furniture.

Dead ocotillo leaves Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaFor being a desert the plant life looks healthy, abundant and diverse.  Of course there is always a lot of creosote bushes, some even showing their tiny yellow flowers and fluffs of seed pod.  The amazing ocotillos with fountain like stalks showed leaves that burst out within 24 hours of rain, be full grown in 5 days and then after a month of dry weather the leaves drop until the next life giving water falls.

Beavertail cactus, unknown & desert lavender bush Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Desert willow Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaObserve the beavertail cactus and cholla from a distance as they bite.  The desert lavender bush a buzz with bees.  A desert willow which sometimes sends roots 60 feet into the rocky earth in search of water.  Sadly, mistletoe growing in some kind of mesquite.  A bush I do not know with sparse, red tubular flowers that attract hummingbirds to quick for my shutter.

Palm grove Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI saw several lizards scoot under rocks and numerous mounds built by the industrious harvester ants.  I didn’t see coyote or mountain lion and it was thankfully too cool for tarantulas, scorpions or snakes.  I really wanted to see the endangered Bighorn Sheep protected in the park and several hikers returning down the trail told me to look up high on the mountainous canyon walls to the east when I got to the palm grove.

Bighorn Sheep Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Bighorn Sheep Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaAnd sure enough, within sight of the grove, I came upon some hikers looking up.  The sheep are difficult to see as they blend in with the rocks until you see the movement of a white butt.  I felt honored to see three of them and get this silhouette shot of a collared ewe or young ram standing on the ridge line.  The 44th Annual Sheep Count lasted 4 days in early July 2014 with I SEE EWE Volunteer Sheep Counters tallying 265 bighorn organized by Anza-Borrego Foundation, partners with the park.  The 2013 count totaled 332, the second largest count to date with the record for most sheep counted at 356 in 2009.

Stream crossing Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park California

Palm Canyon Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI almost chickened out (silly I know) when I got to a stream crossing below the palm cluster then watched a couple of other hikers easily step-stone across and followed.  Sure glad because this palm grove proved to be a mini-world all it’s own.  Water is such a special gift in the desert.

Palm grove Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe groves of palms often grow along earthquake faults that allow water to seep towards the surface.  The frond skirts protect the bark from water loss and insect predators.

Palm grove Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI should have gotten an earlier start so I could stay longer in the grove but the sun was low and clouds were sheeting in.  I read about a far less traveled track that continues up Borrego Palm Canyon toward seasonal waterfalls and an ascent trail to Indianhead Mountain but that would have to wait for another hike.

Borrego Springs valley from Palm Canyon trail Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI didn’t have time to scramble around on boulders looking for morteros left behind from early residents grinding seeds and leaving holes behind.  Yet the Cahuilla Indians understandably chose Palm Canyon for a village site because of the flowing stream and shade brought from the canyon walls.

Sunset Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI took two hours to get to the Oasis and just under 45 minutes to return.  Then a quick stop at the grocery store and back to camp just before dark.  I have such huge respect for the power of water, especially in such an arid land.

Some specifics

Anza-Borrego Desert State Park day use fee was $7.  The trail is located just north of the park visitor center.  Just drive through Borrego Palm Canyon Campground, the largest developed campground in the park, to trail head parking.  Allow at least two hours round trip for this moderate 3-3.25 miles with 450 feet change in elevation.  An alternate trail branches off from, or to, the campfire area.  This trail is NOT dog friendly.  A trail guide is located at the trail head.  Bring plenty of water.  Stay on the trail, it really is a fragile environment.

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07 January 2015

A walk to Clark Dry Lake Anza-Borrego

Santa Rosa Mountains Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaAlthough I did get out for a ‘first day hike’ it wasn’t very far or to any destination, just an hour long loop walk from camp.  On the 3rd I took a longer walk leaving at 10:30 am while sunny but still crisp wearing a warm hat and plenty of layers.  Got water, snacks and backup camera batteries.  All set.

I walk across the desert puzzling over the Anza-Borrego geology headed to Clark Dry Lake and wondered how long has this lake been dry.

Clark Dry Lake & Santa Rosa Mountains Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaRocks and plants

Aluvial fan Santa Rosa Mountains Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI decided to walk cross country towards the lake keeping an eye on a prominent landmark and following major washes that would flow in the right direction.  So many pretty rocks that I try to keep out of my pockets.  At first I am confused because the well eroded rock in the wash that came from the surrounding mountains looks granitic with lots of quartz and sparkles that might be pyrite or fools gold.  What I remember about the geology from the Visitor Center is several layers of different claystones, silts, limestone and maybe sandstone.  What I don’t remember is metamorphism, the change of rock by heat and pressure.   After millions of years marine sediments were metamorphosed by coastal subduction followed by fault produced uplift creating the granitic mountain ranges.  OK, enough geology, let’s get on with this walk.

Ant hill Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaOnly a few moist places remain in the dips of this otherwise dry sandy wash.  How quickly the ground absorbs the rain from just four nights before.  In fact the sand acts like it’s full of static electricity leaving a light sparkle on my boots.  Must be easy digging for ants because their hills look like 10 inch volcanoes.  I am in awe of the strength and tenacity of ants.

Cholla Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe surrounding landscape is lush with creosote bushes, the notorious chollas and an occasional ocotillo.  Not much sign of wildlife although I startled a jackrabbit and saw tracks that could be dog or coyote.  Tried unsuccessfully to figure out the one elusive bird with roller coaster flight that disappears too quickly for me to photograph.  Most startling to see a dragon fly on a creosote bush.

Clark Dry Lake & Santa Rosa Mountains Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe Lake – Bombs and fairies

Clark Dry Lake Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThe landmark I walked toward appears to be one of the abandoned landing strips that create a cross on the dry lake bed.  This area was used as a bombing range during World War II.  Although the sign says no motorized vehicles I followed a recent track on ground still a little soft.  Pilots were warned not to land here after rain.

Cracked mud Clark Dry Lake Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaDry and lake don’t seem to go together in a sentence.  But about 1 million years ago mammoths, camels, squirrels and coyotes frequented this lake shore.  Now the lake is seasonal and actually full of life when it rains with fairy shrimp who appear after a dormancy of 10 years or more.  We didn’t get enough rain for that to happen and instead the dry lake bed resembles a jigsaw puzzle in 3-D.

Gaelyn's feet on Dry cracked mud Clark Dry Lake Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaPieces that don’t quite fit

Structures Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaA loud sound of pounding on metal intruded on my totally absorbed quiet desert walk to the lake.  Shapes and colors caught my eye that look like two semi-structures made of mostly natural materials plus a frame covered with camo-netting, an orange car and blue truck that I guess was being pounded on.  Remote settlers or squatters?  I kept my distance.

Rusty can Coyote Mt Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaAn occasional rusty can mostly riddled with bullet holes.  On the whole, very little litter.  It seems the people visiting here know how to show respect for the land.  There are many 4×4 roads too narrow and sandy for my rig that allow jeeps, ORVs and dirt bikes but are not recommended after heavy rain.

Benchmarks Clark Dry Lake Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaI accidentally discovered two Benchmarks that I was curious about so I went to Google.  There is actually a hobby, known as “benchmarking hunting” complete with a website to look up and report Benchmarks.  I went there and didn’t find CL 15 or CL 16, but I have no GPS to give coordinates.  I am not a geocacher but have always been intrigued by benchmarks, which I seem to actually just kind of trip over.  In fact according to the National Geodetic Survey (NGS)  we all probably walk right past several of them a day.  Benchmarks, or survey markers, are placed to establish the angles and distances between various points and were used for map-making.

Putting the puzzle together

Two people on sand road Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaNot quite 1.5 hours to the lake and the same back.  Maybe 2+ easy miles each way.  I sat on the runway about 30 minutes absorbing the sound of silence.  Two other people arrived, stayed briefly and quickly passed me along the track back towards camp under a warm sun that allowed me to happily remove two layers.

Two sand roads Anza-Borrego Desert State Park CaliforniaThere’s still more to explore in Anza-Borrego Desert, the largest state park in California.  The name comes from 18th-century Spanish explorer Juan Bautista de Anza and borrego, the Spanish word for bighorn sheep.  How I’d love to see them somewhere across this vast Sonoran Desert landscape which also protects the state’s only and endangered native California Fan Palm.  In addition, the park contains 7 million years of rich fossil records.  And although I tend to walk alone, the Anza-Borrego Natural History Association offers many guided hikes and lectures plus manages sales at the State Park Store in Borrego Springs and in the park’s visitor center.

14 DSC_2754lerw Gaelyn's feet airstrip Clark Dry Lake Anza-Borrego Desert SP CA g (1024x678)-2Must be time to get off my butt and go discover more of the park.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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