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Category: Vermilion Cliffs

03 June 2015

White Pocket on the Paria Plateau

I wasn’t sure I’d ever get to White Pocket on the Paria Plateau because it requires a 4×4 to get through the deep soft sand.  Then I met Bill who worked on the Paria and last week he, and dog Sasha, took me there.  Almost all I could say is “WOW!”  And I said it all day afternoon.

Mule deer along Transept Canyon rim from RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe morning began with clear skies over Grand Canyon shared with a couple of mule deer along the Transept Canyon rim as I gazed out the window over coffee.  But I couldn’t lounge too long because of the 45 minute drive to Jacob Lake where I met Bill at 9am Arizona time for me, 10 am Utah time for him.  Left my truck at the Jacob Lake visitor center and chatted with Jackie and Gary who work there this summer.

I always marvel at the diversity in less than 20  miles  along the drive on SR89A off the Kaibab Plateau to the east dropping from Ponderosa Pine forest through Junipers and Pinyons as the temperature increases to House Rock Valley at the base of the Vermilion Cliffs.  Especially nice this time as I’m usually driving instead of a passenger.

 Junction SR89A & House Rock Valley Road ArizonaThe turn north on House Rock Valley Road is easy to find as there is a rock house along with several outbuildings and a mix of equipment and vehicles.  And there is no other sign of human constructs within sight.

House Rock Valley SR89A ArizonaThe valley itself is marvelous, sandwiched between the sloping Kaibab monocline to the west and the towering Vermilion Cliffs to the east.  Although I’d driven from the north about 8 miles I’d only been 3 miles from the south to the Condor release viewing site.  I relish exploring new territory and the House Rocky Valley Road is drivable with almost any vehicle unless it’s wet.

Rock Arch along House Rock Valley Road Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaSaw a rock arch high on a carved mound of sandstone and Bill said he’d hiked to it.  I put that on my list but no time then as we turned off onto a side road and continued the drive up onto the Paria Plateau.

Old wooden water trough Vermilion Cliffs ArizonaIt may not look like it but this is cattle country and there’s evidence of long time use.  President Clinton proclaimed the 280,000-acre Vermilion Cliffs National Monument in 2000 to protect the natural and cultural history of the Paria Plateau, Vermilion Cliffs, Coyote Buttes and Paria Canyon.  The BLM (Bureau of Land Management) continues to allow grazing in some areas.

Closed gate Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaAlthough Bill opened and closed this gate driving in I was informed that’s the passenger’s job.  I kind of knew that and took care of it on the drive out.

White Pocket in distance Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaAfter about a 90 minute drive with White Pocket in sight I understood why Bill said you not only need a 4×4, you need to know how to drive it in soft sand and over slick rock on the Paria Plateau.  The area is remote with no cell signal and a maze of single track roads.  A place to be prepared for anything like a good spare tire, air pump, extra water, shovel and Bill even carries sand ramps/tracks/ladders, called all three.

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaWe made it just fine but I wasn’t prepared for the twisted and contorted colorful sandstone formations only 100 yards from the large but almost empty parking area.

White Pockets National Monument ArizonaLike a butterscotch sunday with whip cream topping.  A storm brewing just to the north made a dramatic backdrop.

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument Arizona

Flowering Beavertail cactus White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaWe wandered around on the incredible textures and colors mostly staying on the rock so as not to impact the sparse vegetation.

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument Arizona

Sasha in water White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaWater from recent rain provided opportunities for Sasha to drink and cool off while small junipers provided occasional shade.  Temps in the mid to high 70s with a nice breeze made the reflective white cap rock doable under the mid-day sun.

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument Arizona

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaThis twisted and alien landscape of Navajo Sandstone began as sand that turned to rock and now erodes to sand again.

Toadstool White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument Arizona190 million years ago sand dunes stretched from present-day southern California to Wyoming comparable to the modern day Sarah Desert.  The Navajo Desert had a relatively high water table with oases and small lakes in low areas between the massive dunes.  Saturated sand slumped into the steep lake margins and fresh-water limestone formed in lake bottoms.

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument Arizona

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaAccording to geologist Marc P. Deshowitz earthquake-induced flash floods caused soft sediment deformation before the sand turned into rock.  The various colors are from the oxidation of iron-bearing minerals in the sandstone.  Reds and pinks are from hematite and the yellows and browns are from limonite.

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument Arizona

White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaMuch of this contorted rock is covered by a thick mass of bleached-white sandstone that weathers into rounded polygons or “cauliflower”.

Lizard White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument Arizona

Wildflowers White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaAs we returned to the parking area Sasha went to greet a man we’d seen from a distance earlier sitting in the shade of a large juniper.  Turned out to be Gary from the Kaibab Visitor Center so we joined him and had lunch while chatting.

Sand Hills Topo MapsIf you’re headed to White Pocket on the Paria Plateau I recommend using maps as this is not a GPS area.  Vermillion Cliffs is largely covered by 13 USGS 24K topo maps. The White Pocket is covered by the Poverty Flat Map. The roads to it are covered by the Coyote Buttes, House Rock Spring, and One Toe Ridge maps.  They can be downloaded from here.  Maps can also be purchased at BLM offices in Kanab, St George or the Contact Station on SR89, Utah.  Tours are available if you don’t have the right kind of vehicle for the drive.

Not to be confused with the well advertised “Wave” located in Coyote Buttes just across the border in Utah’s Paria Plateau-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness.  I haven’t been there, yet, but have seen many photos.  Only 20 permits are issued per day for the Wave, but I didn’t even see that many people at the non-permitted White Pocket.

Bill & Sasha White Pocket Vermilion Cliffs National Monument ArizonaI want to go back and catch morning or late afternoon light but as temperatures rise I may have to wait until fall.  Instead I’ll settle with hiking Snake Gulch with Bill and Sasha Wednesday.

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Arizona, Vermilion Cliffs White Pocket 24 Comments
29 May 2012

Vermilion Cliffs in Arizona

01e Navajo Bridge & Vermilion Cliffs SR89A N AZ (1024x589)

Once you cross Navajo Bridge over Marble Canyon SR89A turns to the west leaving Echo Cliffs behind and parallels the towering Vermilion Cliffs, part of the 294,000-acre Vermilion Cliffs National Monument.

02e Colorado River in Marble Canyon AZ (916x1024)

A stop at the Navajo Bridge visitor center offers information, books and postcard sales.  A walk onto the pedestrian bridge allows for a look 467 feet down into the Colorado River where you might see boats heading down stream.

03e Condor 70 Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon AZ (1024x767)

And also look for California condors possibly soaring overhead or roosting under the bridge.  I didn’t see any on this stop but have before.

04e Lodges along Vermilion Cliffs SR89A AZ (1024x576)

Continuing west are three small bergs providing accommodations and restaurants, Marble Canyon, Lee’s Ferry Lodge and Cliff Dwellers (my favorite place to eat).

05e Stone House & toadstool SR89A Cliff Dwellers AZ (1024x768)

The stone house just before Cliff Dwellers is not an ancient native dwelling although Navajos often set up tables with items for sale.  Around 1927, Blanche Russell’s car broke down near here and she liked the area so bought the property and built this stone house in the 1930’s.

06e Vermilion Cliffs SR89A E BLM AZ (1024x508)

Appropriately named for their color the Vermilion Cliffs get that red tone from iron oxide.  Other colors show off in the many layers along the cliff face like tan and maroon sandstone, blues from manganese, gray and green shale, purple volcanic ash, and dark reddish brown siltstone and mudstone.  Ancient deposits from lakes, streams, mud flats and sand dunes form this 3,000-foot escarpment.

07e House Rock Valley & Vermilion Cliffs SR89A W AZ (1024x455)

The western end of the cliffs bend northward along House Rock Valley just before the climb up onto the Kaibab Plateau which takes you to Jacob Lake and the turn off to the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park.

08e Vermillion Cliffs Hwy 89A W AZ pano (1024x362)

Although the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument doesn’t offer many roads people have long traveled adjacent to the cliffs.  In the 1800s, Mormon pioneers followed almost the same route as SR89A does today.  Known as the Honeymoon trail because traveling couples were headed to Salt Lake City to marry.

What scenic highways have you driven lately?

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Arizona, Vermilion Cliffs 18 Comments
28 September 2009

MWT – Road trip photos Highway 89 Arizona

Fall Aspen and Douglas Fir in Kaibab National Forest
I left the North Rim at 3:15pm. Along the meadows Aspen showed their finest gold to orange colors, sometimes like a fence or mixed into the towering evergreens.

Vermilion Cliffs
As I droped about 3000 feet off the Kaibab Plateau to House Rock Valley the temperature increased from fall back to summer.

Vermilion Cliffs
Back in the 1870s John Wesley Powell named this magnificent 3000 foot escarpment appropriately.

After crossing the Colorado River the highway turns south and parallels Echo Cliffs. The moon was up as the sun went down…

…enhancing the colors of the Painted Desert.

And the sunset was spectacular.

Sunset over Humphreys Peak
Unfortunately I didn’t make it to Flagstaff until after dark.

That is the moon
All photos were taken while I was driving. Some come out better than others. The road is smooth yet full of dips.

Made it to the KOA RV Park where I’ve camped several times before. Always get good WIFI. Tomorrow I drive the rest of the way to Yarnell.

To see glimpses into life around the world, or to share your own, go to My World Tuesday by clicking here.

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Arizona, Echo Cliffs, Highway 89, Humphreys Peak, My World Tuesday, Painted Desert, road trip, sunset, Vermilion Cliffs 22 Comments

Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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