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Category: Arizona

10 November 2020

On the road to November

trees hoodoos Red Canyon Dixie National Forest SR12 UtahLeft Bryce Canyon on October 25th, before it snowed, and am on the road again in the truck-camper.  The more than 150 mile circle around Bryce was headed into a cold front.  With nights everywhere predicted below freezing, or close, I could only think south.

fall trees SR89 South UtahAnd I only got 1 1/2 hours south to Fredonia, just across the border into Arizona.  A familiar drive along SR89 to Kanab where I didn’t even stop.  I felt tired, exhausted, and drained from the last week at work and closing up the 5th-wheel to move into the camper.

5th-wheel stored in Henrieville UtahShortly after arriving at the Wheel Inn RV Park I received a text that the 5er is winterized and in storage.  That’s a relief.

fall cottonwood trees field storm clouds Wheel Inn RV Park Fredonia ArizonaView from end of RV Park

Turned out a friend from the North Rim was already in this park so I pulled in next door.  Sure was good to catch up and talk to someone who understands an intense COVID summer season in a busy national park.  She usually waits tables in the Lodge but due to take-out dinning only her job ended up being the door counter, limiting ten people into the Lodge building for cabin and mule-ride check-in, and enforcing mask wearing.  Sounds like she was verbally abused way too many times.

window view Wheel Inn RV Park Fredonia Arizona

sunset clouds Wheel Inn RV Park Fredonia ArizonaKind of a noisy RV park, or maybe I’m just spoiled.  Also not used to paying $25/night even though I know that’s pretty cheap these days.  But really, basically a level gravel parking lot with utilities and a picnic table.  I initially paid for two nights and added a third to have electricity for heat as the lows dropped below freezing.

truck camper Lynda's house St George Utah

Red Cliffs Desert Reserve by Lynda's St George UtahI was ready to be on the road by Wednesday and drove another 1 1/2 hours west to St. George, Utah with a shopping stop along the way.  A friend invited me to park in her driveway.  I figured one night there but stayed two nights and we even got in a little walk at the nearby Red Cliffs Desert Reserve.  We plan to meet up in the southern desert somewhere this winter.

RVs on Snowbird Mesa Lake Road Overton NevadaFriday, I was on the road again continuing yet another 1 1/2 hours just south of Overton, Nevada to dispersed camping known as Snowbird Mesa or Poverty Flats.

RVs Snowbird Mesa Overton Nevada

RVs Snowbird Mesa Overton NevadaLots of snowbirds, more than I’m used to seeing the end of October, but by the look of the RVs and ‘toys’ mostly not suffering impoverishment.  Everybody works at keeping some distance.  Though my nearest neighbor living in a small pickup truck with a topper has rather loud conversations seemingly with himself, or maybe his dog.

canyon road mountains reverse sunset Earth Shadow Snowbird Mesa Nevada

camper van mountains moon rise Snowbird Mesa NevadaI planned to photograph the almost full moon that night and didn’t have to walk far from camp for an interesting foreground and composition.  Had I driven further off the popular path I might have eliminated other RVs.

mountains moon rise Snowbird Mesa Nevada

canyon road mountains moon rise Snowbird Mesa NevadaBut when I walked the next day realized I’d have to drive farther than I wanted to on rough gravel to really isolate and for just one more night in that location decided it wasn’t worth it.  Definitely isolated enough for no trick-or-treaters.  Good thing, as I didn’t buy any candy.

canyon mountains sunset clouds Snowbird Mesa Overton NevadaPretty sunset, but for full moon it was too late thus too dark for this too lazy photographer to drag out the tripod.

mountains sunrise clouds Snowbird Mesa NevadaI left Sunday morning relatively early for me with the intent of at least a four hour drive to Wickenburg, Arizona for my mail-in ballot.

road lake mountains clouds late light Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaInstead, in only 30 minutes, I saw a sign along the windy Lake Road drive for Stewarts Point and decided to check it out.  The two-mile drive to the lake goes past a bunch of older and many dilapidated small houses that make up the unincorporated community of Stewarts Point, inside the Lake Mead National Recreation Area.  These remaining not quite lakeshore properties are from the 1950s when the National Park Service issued long-term leases inside the recreation area yet quit renewing with a change in philosophy and policy during the 1970s.  According to this article, only 48 cabins remained as of 2013.  Most of what I saw didn’t look very used.

lake mountains clouds late light Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaI’d say less RVs than Snowbird Mesa or maybe just spread out more.  There are many options for sites with some more difficult to get to than others.  I’d recommend scouting before driving with a big rig.  My spot was mostly level and good enough for a night or two but I saw many others I’d prefer for next time.

sunset clouds Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

sunset clouds Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaI spent a delightful day taking short walks and reading in the shade.  Just enough clouds to put on a show for sunset.

desert lake mountains sunrise clouds reflection Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaI had every intention of leaving the next morning and was greeted with a worthy sunrise with clouds.

brush lake mountains clouds Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaAnd the clouds beckoned me to stay yet another day.  I am a nepholographer.

shore lake mountains clouds Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

lake mountains Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaLight and shadow danced across the land.  I finished reading another book.  Took short walks.  I tried to relax and be lazy.

desert sunset clouds crepuscular rays Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaMy mind just wouldn’t stop trying to figure out what and where to be this winter.  I need to figure out how to keep my phone and laptop charged by solar so I don’t NEED to stay in RV parks.  I don’t really understand all the solar stuff so want to talk to someone who does.  I’m willing to add another battery or panel, or both if that’s what it takes.  Probably go back to Solar Bill’s in Quartzsite, eventually.

desert mountains sunset clouds crepuscular rays Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaI stayed for two nights within sight of the ever shrinking Lake Mead along the Overton Arm.  But I had no choice on Tuesday to get on the road to November 3rd so I could vote in Wickenburg, Maricopa county, where I’m registered.

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Arizona, Nevada, Places I've been, road trip, RV living, travel, United States, Utah road trip, travel, truckcamper 19 Comments
13 May 2020

Journey back to Bryce

Despite all the crap going on in the world I’ve had a good winter playing in Arizona’s deserts but now it’s time to go back to Bryce Canyon National Park to work for the summer season.

Mary Gaelyn & Joann Walnut Grove ArizonaSpending my last two weeks at Mary’s was a perfect transition to some socializing.  Even got to visit with Joann, from a distance of course.

orange Globe Mallow & magenta 4 o'clocks flowers Walnut Grove ArizonaGlobe Mallow & 4 O’clocks

trees Bradshaw mountains full moon Walnut Grove ArizonaEnjoyed a few more days of laziness, spring flowers and even shot the almost full moon above the Bradshaw Mountains.  I like the Juniper/Pinyon woodlands landscape, at least for a while.  I like all the landscapes, yet not forever and thus why I am a traveler.

empty TP shelves WalMart Prescott ArizonaPulled out Friday morning and headed to Prescott for some last minute shopping.  I can’t believe stores are still out of toilet paper.  Really, what’s up with this hording?  Why can’t the stores order more?

trees Humphrey Peak I40 East ArizonaHumphrey Peak from I40

Enjoyed the familiar drive along SR89 North through Chino Valley to I40 East at Ashfork.  Not much traffic and mostly semi-trucks on the freeway.

Ponderosa Pine trees truckcamper Coconino National Forest ArizonaQuick stop for fuel in Flagstaff then north again to camp for the night on the Coconino National Forest.  Back under the Ponderosa Pines with their delightfully sweet scent and a sound like waves from wind in the tree tops.

Woke up Saturday morning to the sound of gunshots. What the fuck? There’s a burn ban on the Coconino National Forest but guess it’s OK to hunt.  Except this sound was distinctive to six shots and a pause to reload for target practice.  I have nothing against either but there’s a time and place.  Later at Jacob Lake I heard it’s bow season for turkey.

art on empty building Navajo Reservation SR89 ArizonaImage by Chip Thomas

I was on the road again about 9:30. Somehow felt strange driving across the reservation. Crisp, vivid, clean, clear, freshly washed, not much traffic. A combination of weird and wonderful.

Vermilion & Echo Cliffs SR89A Navajo Reservation ArizonaEven less traffic after the turn onto SR89A, freshly oiled black ribbon of highway rippling across the red rock.

Two Navajo Bridges Vermilion Cliffs Navajo Reservation SR89 ArizonaStopped on the reservation side of the Navajo Bridge as the other side for Glen Canyon National Recreation Area was gated and closed.

Navajo Bridge North SR89 Marble Canyon Arizona

Navajo Bridge South SR89 Marble Canyon ArizonaBarely anyone there and at one point I had the bridge entirely to myself. Again, strangely silent and special. Didn’t see any condors. Walked back to the truck and darn if I didn’t see a big bird soar over the bridge upstream.

California Condor bird V3 flight Navajo Bridge ArizonaSo I hurried back onto the bridge, and sure enough, one condor, and then another soaring together.

immature California Condor bird T3 on Navajo Bridge ArizonaOne landed on the bridge with a dark immature head.

California Condor bird H9 on Navajo Bridge ArizonaThen an adult with red colored head. Soon joined by three more.  I hung out for over an hour and took plenty of pictures but sadly most are out of focus.  I get excited when seeing wildlife and tend to shake a little which means fuzzy photos.

green Colorado River downstream Navajo Bridge ArizonaAlthough only a handful of people came out on the bridge and saw them I went into Ranger mode and shared all kinds of information.  Later I looked up the tag numbers and according to the current Southwest California Condor stud book I saw V3 a 3-year old male, T3 a 4-year old female, 53 an 8-year old female, F1 a 13-year old male, H9 a 12-year old female, and X8 a 2-year old male.

Then I headed west across the Marble Plateau and stopped for a delicious lunch at Cliff Dwellers with only a few other customers.

cloud shadows House Rock Valley & Vermilion Cliffs from overlook SR89A Kaibab National Forest ArizonaFinally drove up onto the Kaibab Plateau with a stop along the way to look back down across House Rock Valley.  Lovely shadows from the puffy clouds.

Ponderosa Pine trees truckcamper FR258 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAfter stopping at Jacob Lake Inn for half a dozen chocolate chip cookies I found a sweet spot to camp for the night on the Kaibab National Forest once again under the Ponderosa Pines and was later joined by friends who will also be working at Bryce.

trees Grand Staircase clouds SR89A North Kaibab National Forest ArizonaGrand Staircase in distance

Sunday I didn’t get the earliest of starts.  A mistake considering I stopped in Kanab to do laundry and Utah is an hour later.  Mountain time like Arizona except they honor daylight savings time.

trees White Cliffs clouds SR89 North UtahAll the clouds brought an ass-whipping wind but only a few drops of rain.

trees Pink Cliffs storm clouds SR89 North UtahSkies looked rather serious over the Paunsauguant Plateau but as I made the climb through Red Canyon never saw a drop of rain.

trees Bryce entrance sign Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFinally checked in at 4:30pm and felt good to get back to Bryce Canyon National Park.

trees hoodoos amphitheater from rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMonday morning I worked at home for a few hours mostly reading notes to jog my memory about the place.  After lunch I went to the rim and walked between Sunset and Sunrise Points.

trees hoodoos Queens Garden trail from rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe Sunset overlook parking lot wasn’t even full and there were only a few people out walking.  Again, weirdly wonderful.

pink Manzanita flowers Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAnd I’m back to Spring with lantern-shaped flowers covering the Manzanita instead of the green berries to follow like I saw at Mary’s.

In the afternoon I had paperwork to deal with so wearing a mask I entered the administration building.  Nice to see friendly faces who mostly weren’t wearing masks as they’ve been working together for several weeks.

talks cancelled signs view South hoodoos clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahRanger duties will be a bit different, at least to start.  We’ll be out there wearing the green and gray available to answer questions but please keep your distance.

I am still in the truck-camper until the 5th-wheel is hauled in from storage.  No rush.  I’ve lived in this 8×12 foot tiny home on wheels for seven months.  I might get lost in the 36 footer or have a hard time deciding which of many choices to sit on.  But without the booster that’s in the 5th-wheel, I don’t have enough signal to do much more than text.  And because I’m suppose to be under self-quarantine I may be hanging out in parking lots for a while.

trees hoodoos from rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahYet all in all, it feels good to be back to Bryce Canyon National Park for the summer season.

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28 April 2020

Moving on up

Old welcome sign Yarnell ArizonaFrom the upper Sonoran desert in Congress, Arizona, rising temperatures had me moving on up in elevation with a change in scenery.  Starting with the familiar 2500 foot climb up Yarnell Hill along SR89, “Where the desert breeze meets the mountain air”, to Chaparral, and then beyond into Juniper/Pinyon woodland, 10° cooler with company on friends’ 45 off-grid acres.  It smells delightfully different.

A woke Friday morning in the desert to 77° at 8am.  A good time to be moving on up into cooler temperatures.  Stopped to fill the almost empty propane tank at B&B and left the wonky-only-intermittently-working tank behind to be either repaired or replaced.  This struggle has been going on for a year now and I believe Manchester needs to step up.  My guess, when the new regulations came out for horizontal use 5-gal propane tanks they answered the call and there are bugs in the valve system (like first updates on Windows).  We shall see.

Quick stop at the dollar store in Yarnell finally yielded two boxes of chintzey kleenex.  So why is it that Angle Soft TP bought at discount stores are wrapped loosely with less product for cheaper than other stores?  Hmmm, maybe why I don’t usually shop at those places.

Parked in front of Gilligan’s along main street Yarnell and called in my order to go.  Twenty minutes later I was sampling said pizza before bringing the rest to my hosts.  It passed inspection as usual and I ate another piece later for dinner with my friends.  Sadly, in the morning I suffered for that pizza as has been happening in the last several months with any pizza, one of my favorite comfort foods.  I may have to eliminate it or try gluten free.  I actually tracked what I ate for about a month and noticed that more than two slices of bread for a sandwich did the same thing, so, who knows, maybe another change in life.

Hassayampa bridge Wagnor Road Arizona

TK Bar Ranch fence Wagnor Road Walnut Grove ArizonaIt was after noon when I turned off SR89 onto Wagnor Road for the first nine miles, mostly paved, across the Hassayampa River bridge, through ranch land, much owned by Rex Maughan who also owns the Forever Resorts concession at several national parks and abroad.  Crossed several deep dry washes so was glad there’s no rain predicted for a while.

Chaparral mountain Crooks Canyon Road Walnut Grove ArizonaPulled in, parked and was distant visiting by 3pm. Took almost an hour from SR89 to go 12+ miles.  Of course I do drive slow like a granny should.

Mary has 45 acres with a marvelous straw-bale house they built, plus a guesthouse, and multiple shops. Jerry says she owns it and he gets to live there. And he has ‘stuff’ spread all over. After dinner he gave me the Royal tour.  Ford trucks, graders, grinders, and lift trucks, motors, generators, tractors, trailers, the bus conversion they lived in, and a fire truck. If he doesn’t have the part, he can make it. Tall and slightly bent at 80 he’s busy, on and off, all day and there just isn’t enough time to geteralldone.

Mary’s garden is a delightful piece of more cultivated green with flowers, ponds, vegetables, and outdoor art. The inside of the house reminds me of Berta’s in collections, antiques, miniatures, paintings, photographs, and arrowheads (some made by Jerry).

truckcamper Walnut Grove ArizonaAfter Mary showed me a few places she thought would be good to park and offer shade, I chose a spot with the most direct warm afternoon sun. Thank goodness for a breeze. I watched around me to see where the shade would be better.

stinky blue Phacelia flowers Walnut Grove Arizona

trees crescent moon Venus sunset Walnut Grove ArizonaGoing outside that night to turn off the inverter I suspected having a skunk neighbor.  However, it turns out to be a pretty blue Phacelia flower that is carpeting a lot of the land right now.

tree mountain sunset Walnut Grove ArizonaThe next day I dumped my holding tanks and moved into a shadier location.  I am surrounded by some old and healthy Juniper and Pinyon Pine trees.  Lots of shade to sit under for afternoon reading.

trees mountain sunset Walnut Grove ArizonaDistant views of the Weaver Mountains from a new perspective.

trees mountain sunset Walnut Grove ArizonaNow I just need to motivate enough to get out and take more photos of this beautiful place.

trees Weaver Mountains sunset clouds Walnut Grove ArizonaHow long I’ll be here is hard to say.  Current start date to return to work at Bryce Canyon National Park is May 10th.  Of course, that could change again.  I have to return to B&B in Congress to pick up my replacement propane tank.  Yes, the manufacturer is coming through.  Then it’s only another 20 miles to Wickenburg for my mail—including a replacement solar controller.

solar panel & windmill Walnut Grove ArizonaAlthough I am currently plugged into the solar system here to charge my phone and laptop I still need to work on the power issues.  Thanks for the suggestions.  A tablet just wouldn’t cut it for all I do on my laptop.  I need to beef up the solar system.  Hopefully, I’ll return to work soon and be able to afford that for next winter.

I can’t thank friends enough times for providing a place to park, though they may get tired of me.  Or summer temperatures will rise some more and then I’ll have to be moving on up to higher elevation again.  Guess I could live on the North Kaibab National Forest at 8000 feet next.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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