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Category: Arizona

Kofa feels like home

last light desert Kofa Mts moon Palm Canyon BLM Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaKofa feels like home for many reasons.  I soak up the desert apricity on sunny days while I wander into my “yard” and get better acquainted with the plants and animals who also call Kofa home.

Saguaro cactus Woodpecker bird sunset Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaSunrise for a Woodpecker, and me

After Joann left Saddle Mt the flies chased me away as well.  I had choices to make for chores, 30 minutes east to Buckeye for shopping, then an hour west to Quartzsite for an overnight before south to Kofa.  Or, 30 minutes west to Quartzsite, same north to Parker for shopping, and back to Q for the night before Kofa.  I opted for the second choice, in a different order.

truck hauling trucks I10 West ArizonaIn the morning I called Shady Lane to see if I needed a reservation for the night.  Nope, my usual space would be available.  I hit the road early and drove freeway west to Quartzsite.  Early and freeway, both unusual activities for me.

Tyson Wells Quartzsite ArizonaI wanted to check out the vendors at Tyson Wells and wasn’t sure how parking would be.  February isn’t as crowded as January so I had no problem in the lot that morning.  I walked, up and down the isles, just looking, don’t really need anything.  A stack of five collapsible mixing bowls, screwdrivers, sink strainers, jewelry, rocks, dog sweaters, CBD oil, beads, old license plates, you name it.  I bought none of those things.  Was hoping the Greek food cart would be there.  But a lot of vendors were already packed up and gone.

jewelry caseThen I saw a jewelry carrying case similar to one I have and love, so got that and a couple extra trays that fit inside it. Took it back to the truck and returned looking for something to eat with limited choices and had a sloppy and just OK pulled pork sandwich.  Finally the RV-stuff store for toilet chemical, a kneeling pad and a couple of LED light bulbs.  There’s always something on the RV needs list.

truckcamper Shady Lane RV Park Quartzsite ArizonaFilled both propane tanks after almost three weeks and went to Shady Lane for the night, dump, fill, and long shower.  My reputation precedes me as my neighbor in a classic 1980s Alaskan popup truckcamper had been told I’d be there at some point during his month-long stay.  Finius and Breezy always make me feel at home.

man stop sign SR95 North to Parker ArizonaThe next day’s drive to Parker took a bit longer than expected with a 25 minute wait for road work.  Filling pavement cracks with hot tar is a labor intensive band aide fix.  I ate lunch at a fast food joint I don’t typically frequent, and seems the employees don’t really understand the “fast” part.  Not that I was really in any hurry, but, one young man at the register was on a cell phone with presumably a boss and said rather frantically it was a rush. There were four people waiting, three tables full, and not even a line at the drive up.  Two stores for shopping and back south.

  desert sunset BLM Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaSunset view south

Pulled into camp after 4pm.  It took two tries to find the correct turn off along Palm Canyon Road.  Not like there’s street markers.  About a mile off pavement, take the second left after the red tie on creosote bush, then immediate right and a little ways to a left towards a Palo Verde tree and last seen a trailer, immediate right, follow two-track to my Kofa home, and park to the right out of my sight please.  Don’t get lost.

desert sunset BLM Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaSunset view west

desert reverse sunset Kofa Mts BLM Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaSunset view east (my driveway in both shots)

Got a good spot a little further east than the last visit complete with Saguaros, Ocotillos, Palo Verde and Mesquite trees.  Best of all, nobody in sight between me and the Kofa Mountains.  Sigh, Kofa feels like home.  Lovely, quiet and dark again, unlike the previous night in Quartzsite.

Kofa Mts sunrise BLM Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaEarly to bed tired after a full day of shopping and driving paid off for an early rise to catch the sun.  No luck with those sun rays I caught last year like the header shot (until that gets changed).  First day was plenty warm and sunny and lazy.  I worked on the last blog post and just sat outside enjoying the desert apricity.

Saguaro cactus desert Kofa Mts moon BLM Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaBesides the signal often being weak and iffy, I am bored with my social media choice of FB showing way too much BS and advertising.  All I really want is friends’ updates and photos plus a few group activities and news outlets.  I belong to Instagram and LinkedIn but am not active.  Can only spend so much time online.  Yet in the last many years, social media has become my entertainment and connection.  Is there a FB alternative anybody uses and likes?

finger Kit Fox or Coyote scat on rug Palm Canyon Rd BLM Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaScats & Tracks book

I did have a night-time visitor who didn’t wake me up.  In fact it wasn’t until I went outside in the afternoon that I saw its calling card.  Could be a small piece of Coyote scat, they are certainly around and my camps have been marked before by them, yet their poop frequently contains fur and small bones.  Also could be a much smaller Kit Fox who also live in the area though never seen by me.  This piece of scat was only about 1 inch long and 1/4 inch across.  Dog-like mammals usually show tapered tips on the scat and tend to mark their territories.  The ground is way too hard and dry for tracks.  I don’t see a lot of wildlife, but Kofa is home to many animals who sleep underground during the coldest of winter and often the heat of a summer day, coming out at night to find food.

Gaelyn shadow desert Kofa Mts moon Palm Canyon BLM Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaAnd it’s been warm during the day, reaching 80°.  Had to dig out lighter weight clothes and even sat outside wearing shorts.  Have to be careful not to sunburn my lily-white legs.  I am rather a sun worshipper which shows with my tanned arms and face.  Spending a large portion of my summer days outside in a uniform with long pants I have a “farmer’s tan”.  I’d like to work on tanning my legs slowly but then the necessary compression stockings cover from the knee down.

12v receptacle & wiresI usually work on the computer in the morning and have opened door and windows by 10am lately.  Lots of sunshine for the solar panels to charge the battery and the system has been working great and even allows for use after dark.  Except for the 12v socket I plug an inverter into to charge the laptop.  Why are 12v wires so flimsy?  Anything electrical that gets plugged and unplugged regularly will ultimately have cord or plug problems.  I checked fuses, tested the 12v socket, tried a different inverter, and watched videos before disconnecting and reconnecting the wires.  But things still aren’t making a constant connection.  I suppose it would help it I had all the right tools and extra connectors.  I don’t like to mess with electricity but 12v is only two wires.  It’s not rocket science.  Next time I’m in town I’ll get more parts and pieces.

Palo Verde & Mesquite trees moon BLM Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI am loving these warm days but without clouds those blue skies make for rather boring photos and soft sunsets.  I’ve been tracking the moon rise in the afternoons when it is soft and difficult to see in the pale blue sky.

Mesquite tree Palm Canyon BLM Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

Mesquite tree Palm Canyon BLM Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI took a short walk into my nearby “yard” and became better acquainted with the Mesquite tree.  No tree hugging as it has spines.  Yet I love its crooked branches and rough thick bark.

Mesquite tree curled trunk Palm Canyon BLM Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona         Mesquite tree bark Palm Canyon BLM Kofa National Wildlife Refuge Arizona

The wood is prized for fence-posts and fuel.  I’ll bet you’ve heard of Mesquite BBQ.  It produces bean-like pods in the summer that were gathered by Southwest Native Americans and ground into flour.  Fragrant yellow flowers attract honey bees.  I have some Mesquite jelly that hasn’t been opened yet.

peace flag moon BLM Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaI sat outside with a book and found the landscape distracted me from reading.  I finally reached decompression from the summer of working.  Only took four months.

Hal Olmsted 2 years old 1949Hal Olmsted Sacramento CA

                                                                               Two-years old & Grandpa

Then I got a call from my sister-in-law.  My brother died.  He’s been unhealthy for many years and was in a hospital with complications and COVID.  This news was both surprise and not.  We weren’t terribly close with lousy history from our youth, him seven years older.  I feel sad for her and especially the grandchildren. This year would have marked 27 years married.  He’s been the stay-at-home step-Grandpa/babysitter for many years.  The biggest shock for me, I am the last of my parents line.

ham & cheese sandwhich It is now I am glad to be embraced by my Kofa home.  I returned to child-like comfort food.  He would know.

zen coloring #1  I have spent much time with a new-to-me adult hobby, coloring with pencils, in a zen-like state of mind.

Sierra cat at door BLM Palm Canyon Rd Kofa National Wildlife Refuge ArizonaSierra also calls this place home, at least for now

Arizona, Kofa NWR, Places I've been, Quartzsite, Sonoran desert, United States , , , , 25 Comments

Saddle Mountain petroglyphs and more Sonoran Desert

desert mts stormy clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZSaddle Mountain petroglyphs are noted in many places yet with limited information and no really clear trail.  Maybe that’s for the best.  I believe the area is better known for gathering chalcedony and fire agate.

cattle desert mts Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZWe were headed to the base of the peak far left, I don’t know where they were going

Joann had walked from camp to the parking area but didn’t see any petroglyphs.  Instead she returned with pockets full of pretty rocks.  You can’t walk anywhere around here without something white, brown, or flashy on the ground to catch the eye.  A couple days later, Joann drove us to the parking area where there was a mess from the weekend’s campers who I had heard shooting at something.

boulders trees desert mt clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZThey’d also left beer can cairns that I presumed marked a trail to the Saddle Mountain petroglyphs.  I started a short climb on what appeared to be an animal trail weaving across the slope.  I had seen a friend’s photos of a large slab of rock covered with petroglyphs so swung my head back and forth looking down.  Have to look down anyway just to walk because of all the rock trippers.

petroglyphs Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZ

petroglyphs Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZThese petroglyphs might have been created on cliff faces but now lay broken on the alluvial fan below the peak.  We didn’t climb very high before going downwards towards another trail only a little more distinct and there it lay.  Joann spotted the first, and largest seen, 8×3 foot slab covered with petroglyphs.  What they mean, is pretty much anyone’s guess.  I interpreted at least three Mt Sheep (upper right and bottom middle)—they do live in the area even though we haven’t seen them—and what I think looks like a map (left) that could represent the three major washes that drain into the Palo Verde foothills and valley below.

petroglyphs Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZThere were more petroglyphs on smaller pieces of nearby rock and as we followed the trail saw a few more here and there along the hillside.  Neither of us climbed further up the scree.  What goes up fairly easily with a walking stick can slide down much quicker with a fall.

petroglyphs Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZImagine sitting who knows how long, slowly pecking away the dark outer layer of rock, manganese stain called desert varnish, to reveal the lighter color creating the story you wished to tell. I didn’t have much luck finding information online about who might have left these stories behind.

shot trailhead archeology sign Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZ    archeology sign Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZ

                                                     On left by the parking, on right by the road

Later, I conferred with a friend who is studying petroglyphs in the Southwest and he was unfamiliar with the Saddle Mountain petroglyphs site.  Yet after looking at the photos of the petroglyphs we agreed on the Archaic Period (7500-2100 BCE-Before Common Era).  This was a time of major adaptation for North American people as the climate warmed at the end of the last Ice Age.  As mammoths and large animals like horses and camels began to disappear hunting for smaller animals caused a change in the size and shape of projectile points (arrowheads).  Small game nets were woven from plant materials like the Yucca.  A semi-nomadic lifestyle also followed the prime time to harvest native plants like cactus fruits, mesquite beans, acorns, and pine nuts.  Corn from Mexico was planted near water sources and returned to for harvesting.  Metates/grinding stones were used to make paste or flour from seeds and nuts.  Probably pre-ceramics, instead weaving baskets from plant materials easily replaced and light weight.  Archaic or Desert Cultures represent the longest span of human occupation in Arizona.  These people lived in small bands, had an intimate knowledge of the plants and animals around them, and moved seasonally.  Others followed, up to the most recent Anglo Americans.  Like the pigs we cleaned up after, beer cans, bullets and shot gun shells.

burnt trailer Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZOn the road back to pavement we saw the remains of an obviously burned trailer with frame and stuff everywhere. Must have been relatively recent as there’s even books and paper strewn nearby.  I won’t even burn candles for fear of starting a fire in my RV.  They burn so quickly, you don’t have time to kiss your ass goodbye.

Saguaro desert mt clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZ

campfire Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZThat night we had a campfire under a pretty sunset and shared stories.  The next several nights, and days, were far too windy for fires.  Even with clouds the camper battery stays charged by solar.  Now to figure out why the 12v socket doesn’t always produce power.  It’s always something.

desert mts sunrise clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZ

desert mts sunrise clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZSunrise

Discovered the downside of Saddle Mountain, wind from the north, or even not much wind, brought flies.  Lots of flies from the nearby chicken ranch.  One morning we could even smell chicken shit.  Makes me glad to have a screen door but still have to be fast going in and out.  And even then, have a fly swatter ready.

van gathering desert mts Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZA home-made yellow truckcamper arrived and set up a respectable distance away.  Then a van pulled in, followed by a skoolie, and another van, and another van.  I was thinking, oh no, not another van-life gathering like at Kofa.  Yet this was only about ten total over a couple days and pretty quiet except for some evening music around the campfire.

Saguaro desert mt sunset Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZBrutal wind blew the clouds and flies away making the sunny and comfortable 60° rather intolerable to be outside.  Not sure I could have gotten the door open anyway.  Even inside the rocking got old.  I’m good with my laptop and phone charged, two forms of entertainment other than reading a good book.  In fact, I just finished reading a Robert Heinlein, To Sail Beyond the Sunset, that got missed in the early 2000s.

desert mts sunset moon Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZOf course when the skies clear the overnight temperature drops to what I call chilly and by morning, downright cold at 34-38°.  I know, that’s nothing compared to many of you living in northern, eastern, and even southeastern states these days.  I’m sorry.  Us Arizonans do tend to rub it in a bit when our winter highs reach anything over 60°, otherwise we’re wearing down jackets.  Maybe I shouldn’t tell you that this week is predicted for high 70s.  Sigh…..

mt last light Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZI’m not the only living thing slowed by cool/cold temperatures.  Don’t see much wildlife other than a couple Ravens once in a while.  One night at the campfire an owl silently flew over and landed briefly in our nearby Saguaro before swooping off for its next meal.  While out gathering firewood under a warm afternoon sun, motion caught my eye as two ground squirrels chased each other from creosote bush to bush.  Pausing to stand briefly, belly faced to the sun’s warmth, before disappearing back into one of the many burrow holes.  The ground must be warming and waking up life in the desert.

Gaelyn mt Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZWith temperatures rising, Joann headed a little further north.  Not me.  I’m not ready to give up the desert apricity.  But the flies chased me from Saddle Mountain.  Plus it was time to get some groceries and fill up propane.  So off to Quartzsite.  Mostly, I’m starting to think about a full moon rise over the Kofa Mountains.

Note:  I do not call petroglyphs or pictographs rock art.  A wise native man once said to me, “These marks on the rock are not art.  My people have art.  These are stories.”  Sadly, some of the stories have been lost to time.

bumper collection Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZbumper collection

Arizona, Places I've been, rock art, Saddle Mt, Sonoran desert, United States , , , 43 Comments

Rockin’ in the wind, and looking for rocks at Saddle Mt

desert mts clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaAfter rockin’ in the wind a few nights in Congress it felt like time to move further south to Saddle Mountain, where there’s good rockin’ with boondock options and views.

solar controller reads FULWas really nice to have the battery and solar controller issues taken care of and I even mounted the controller on the wall.  Nice easy to read LED screen and when the sun goes down the controller turns off so no blinking lights overnight wasting energy.  With everything charged I was back to keeping the phone and laptop batteries topped up.

boulders valley trees mts moon Copper Basin Rd Prescott National Forest Arizonard Ponderosa Pine tree root Copper Basin Rd Prescott National Forest Arizonaice puddle Copper Basin Rd Prescott National Forest Arizona

Rode to Prescott with Joann one day so she could pick up some ordered plugs for her charging system.  Seemed to be a week of dealing with energy.  We came back over the Bradshaw Mountains on the gravel Copper Basin Road where there are trees, tiny patches of snow—as much as I want to see—and even a little ice on the puddles.

pie-makers old & newStopped at the Skull Valley post office for my mail, thanks for the Christmas cards including a “Secret Santa”.  Also made a quick dash into my 5th-wheel for mom’s pie-maker.  A blast from the past when Joann brought out her pie-maker, a wonderful way to make desert while camping.  My mom would put canned pie filling between two slices of buttered bread, then with a kitchen mitt or glove on, hold the maker over the campfire.  Joann and I did it on the stove instead.  I’ve also made cheese sandwiches and even leftovers though it’s only a little blob of filling.

desert mts rd Octave ArizonaAnother day we took a drive further along the nearby gravel road to the mining town of Stanton and Octave.  There’s a few renovated buildings and lots of RV parking with and without hookups for modern miners.  Plus there’s private land around with mining equipment of various sorts I know little about.  It’s a different kind of rockin’ than I ever got into.

Saguaro cactus boulders mt Stanton Arizona

Saguaro cactus boulders mt Stanton ArizonaMore gorgeous rockin’ hillsides of Saguaro cactus.

desert rd Octave Arizona

decision corner Octave ArizonaAt Octave, we had to make a decision. Or so read the sign.

bumper rocks Stanton Rd Congress ArizonaCongress bumper rocks

For several days and nights the wind blew hard enough to rock the camper.  I spent much time indoors writing, reading, and labeling photos from November 2020.  Yes I am that far behind, and just keep taking more.

Yet with the wind coming from the northeast it seemed a good time to roll to the south with a tail-wind most of the way.  Left Congress about 10:30am headed to Wickenburg with a stop at North Ranch on the way to dump and fill tanks.  After a grocery stop continued south on Vulture Mine Road across some pretty and desolate desert highway.  Did see some side roads that might hold promise for future camps.

desert clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaAs we approached the dispersed camping north of Saddle Mt, parked Joann’s rig on the shoulder and explored in my truck to check out the road conditions.  It’s gravel and at first smooth but as the road rises slowly towards the feet of the mountains becomes rockier, yet still doable.

truckcamper Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

desert clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaFound a nice camp far enough from neighbors, big enough for two and settled in with a marvelous view.

Saguaro cactus desert sunset clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaThe wind that pushed us there calmed enough to do a little rockin’ and we were treated to a colorful sunset.

desert mts sunset clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaSaddle Mountain rises up to 3037 feet in elevation, about 1500 feet above the desert floor.  The rugged shapes formed about 24-36 million years ago during massive volcanic activity with basalt lava flows and cinders capped with ash flow and fall. Erosion created cliffs, spires, and buttes tinted by andesite (grayish), rhyolite (pinks), and basalt of dark gray to black.  I’ll bet that caused some “rockin’” time around here.

mt sunrise Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

Saguaro cactus desert first light mt Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaThe next day dawned clear with clouds increasing throughout the day.

desert Belmont Mts mammatus clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

Saguaro cactus desert mts sunset clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

desert mts last light clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaShort walks from camp produced lots of rocks in our pockets.

Along with this period of volcanism, hot water saturated with silica and iron oxide repeatedly filled cracks and bubbles in the surrounding rock.  Once lithified (turned into rock) the resulting quartz specimens produced crystals and chalcedony (sometimes called desert roses) that occasionally show an iridescent rainbow of colors called fire agates.  The adularescence, or Schiller effect, is caused by alternating silica and iron oxide layers diffracting light.

rocks Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaUpper right shows colors

fire agate rock Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaWe sat oohing and aahing over the rocks with a hand lens. I actually got one tiny pinky-fingernail sized piece that shows fire.

desert mts sunset clouds Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaI vaguely remember my first visit to Saddle Mt during the winter of 1996 and think the area hadn’t been picked over so much then and the rockin’ was better as I filled five-gallon buckets.

Gaelyn rd desert mt Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

leaves Ocotillo Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizonared Chuparosa flower Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizonared cactus fruit Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

                           Ocotillo                                                   Chuparosa                                       Christmas Cholla cactus

The following day held clear blue skies, light southern wind, and 72° that beckoned outdoors.  A walk up the road closer to the mountains revealed several campsites with only a few occupied.  I told myself no rockin’ until the walk back to camp.  Of course impossible.  Yet I was also distracted by the landscape, plants, and view.  The most prevalent plant is the creosote bush sending out roots to clone itself into a big family and lending good locations for the burrows of small mammals.  The three converging washes in the area, known as the Palo Verde foothills, create lush stands of mesquite, ironwood, and Palo Verde trees.

dead & live Saguaro cactus Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

dead & live Saguaro cactus desert mts Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

down & dead Saguaro cactus Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaThe Saguaro cactus can grow at least 30 feet over time and are seen in various states of life and death.

hawk on Saguaro desert Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

hawk in flight Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaThey provide a nice roost for local birds of prey like copper and sharp-shinned hawks, prairie falcons, and golden eagles.  Not sure what we saw as the images are out of focus.

lime-green, ashy-gray, & orange map lichen Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaYet all desert life isn’t tall or obvious.  The lime-green (no bigger around than an egg), ashy-gray, and orange lichen forms a symbiotic relationship with the dark rock varnish formed by manganese oxidation.

camp desert mts Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaCamp left & down from center

jct BLM 8211 & 8212 desert mts Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

Gaelyn desert mts Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah AZ by JoannJoann returned to camp before me and I continued sauntering to a four-way then turned around and about half way back saw her driving toward me.  We returned to the four-way and explored the right turn that quickly ended in a place for day-use folks to park while out rockin’.

rd not taken desert mts Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaAnother right turn stopped us quick as the “road not taken” so we turned around.  I am glad Joann likes to explore the backroads.

We took a round about drive to the town of Tonopah (population 59) where google indicated no services except the post office.  We looped the parking lot at El Dorado Hot Springs that didn’t look any more appealing than the lousy TripAdvisor reviews.  There are three fuel station options at the Tonopah freeway exit, one with a Subway where we had a late lunch.  Drove past the chicken farm that draws the abundance of flies when there’s no wind.

the saddle desert mts Salome Rd Tonopah ArizonaAnd saw a different perspective of Saddle Mt with a most obvious “saddle”.

late light mt Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah Arizona

log in fire Saddle Mt BLM Tonopah ArizonaWind slowed enough for a campfire that night.  Later we used our pie-makers, with cherry filling, on my stove top, cleaner than sticking them in the flames.  And we talked about another outing for the next day to look for petroglyphs, kind of another form of rockin’.

Arizona, Congress, Places I've been, RV life, Saddle Mt, United States , , , 26 Comments

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