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Category: Kaibab National Forest

12 September 2016

A forest drive to Marble View

September 6 & 7 2016

Marble Plateau & Canyon, Vermilion & Echo Cliffs, Navajo Mountain from Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThree days in a row off work so I chose to stay at home the first day, then Bill drove up and we took a forest drive to Marble View for an overnighter.  Even though I love my park, sometimes I just have to change the view.    Plus I wanted to see what effects, if any, the Fuller Fire had on this area of the Kaibab National Forest.  And I suspected some fall colors would be showing.

Bison & touron meadow SR67 North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaJust before the North Rim entrance station I saw about 30 bison mostly laying down in a meadow, plus one touron.  What don’t these people understand about “wild” life?

FR219 Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaBarely out of sight from State Route 67 and into the forest on FR611 I saw the strangest, what I believe to be, fire break along both sides of the road and some very large slash piles.

Chipped fire break FR219 Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaActually it’s about 30 feet from the road, a swath at least 100 feet wide with most of the trees cut down and chips left behind.  Looked like a thinning process leaving clusters of aspen and a few ponderosa pine.  Yet there were also many large and small stumps, some trees gashed and knocked over.  These clearings ran for about 12 miles in the national forest but not on national park land where a section of the road is a boundary between the two.  I saw no evidence of burn at all.

 

 

 

 

 

Marble View FR219 Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI welcomed the familiar tunnel of trees at the end of FR219 leading to Marble View, yet the narrow road had been widened and trimmed.

Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Two people with a tent occupied the first big site so we went around the trees a bit to allow for privacy and quickly leveled up with an excellent view.

 

View from camp Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaRosehips Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Wild rose bushes turning colors and covered with hips grew at the edge of camp.

Marble Plateau & Canyon Echo Cliffs Navajo Mountain from Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI absolutely love this view for it’s distances.  About 100 miles away Navajo Mountain stands alone at 10,416 feet.  Echo Cliffs to the east, Vermilion Cliffs to the northeast, and the Colorado River deep in Marble Canyon cutting through the Marble Plateau.

Wind blown pinyon pine from Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAncient trees on the rim lean from the strong southwest winds of summer yet a dense forest blocked our camp.  That is until a walk out to the point threatened to blow us off the edge and the bite in the wind sent us back to camp.

Marble Plateau & Canyon Echo Cliffs Navajo Mountain from Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaSo many gravel roads visible below and leading to the rim that I haven’t explored yet.

Shadow creeping across Marble Plateau from Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Shadow creeping across Marble Plateau from Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAs the sun sank behind the forest shadows crept across the plateau below and seemed to flow into Marble Canyon.

Sunset Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Sunset Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaHad there been less wind we might have sat outside around a campfire.  No shortage of fire wood nearby.  Instead we admired the sunset through the camper window and I stepped outside for a couple quick shots.

Moon above camper Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaIncluding a crescent moon.

Clouds & hazy view Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThe morning began with light colored clouds and haze.

Kaibab monocline, Vermilion & Echo Cliffs, Marble Plateau & Canyon Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAfter coffee and conversation we walked to the point.  To the north the cliff face shows the marvelous curve of the Kaibab monocline dipping east into the valley below.

Paintbrush Marble View Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThis area reminds me of tundra with stunted vegetation and lots of fossils.

 

 

 

 

Golden Aspen Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Bees on Fleabane Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

 

We left camp about 3pm.  Bill headed back to Kanab and I slowly, 2 hours, drove back to the North Rim.  I stopped often for the splashes of fall colors.

Fall Aspen Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Arizona trail meadow Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Sun through fall aspen Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaFall leaves & lupine Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAnd along a meadow where the Arizona trail passes through.

 

 

 

 

Fall aspen Kaibab Kaibab National Forest Arizona

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fall aspen & fence Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaPlus a quick pit-stop where I usually find colors and love this old fence.

One yellow aspen leaf FR219 Kaibab Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI do understand the importance of fire for forest ecology, and fire breaks to keep fire from jumping the road.  But this is plum ugly and I’d rather have seen burn.

I could feel and hear the forest crying.

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04 September 2016

The seasons they go round and round..

August 29, 2016

“And the seasons they go round and round
And the painted ponies go up and down
We’re captive on the carousel of time…”

–Circle Game  by Joni Mitchell

 

After several weeks of chilly rain and humidity temperatures went back in the 70s (20s C).  And yet signs of fall can be seen on the Kaibab Plateau.  Mushrooms pop and aspen turn.

Mushrooms Widforss trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMonday morning while waiting for a group of NAU students for a guided hike on the Widforss trail I wandered the edges of the parking lot and mushrooms were everywhere and in every color.  White, cream, orange, browns, and reds.   Golf ball sized white puffballs.  Brilliant red amanitas.  Tiny little burnt orange caps on a spindly stalk.  Yet I saw no oysters or shaggy manes to sauté for dinner.  One of the professors found a couple of edible King Boletus at least as big around as a desert plate, a rusty orange almost wavy top.  After I informed him grazing was allowed in national parks he harvested them to add to the class’ spaghetti dinner.

Dew on grass & seed head Widforss trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black-Throated Gray Warbler Widforss trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaLittle birds skittered about in the aspen branches rather difficult to photograph like this Black-Throated Gray Warbler.  Some bright yellow flowers persisted.  Dew sparkled on the grasses.  Some flower heads almost completely blown out.  Seems like only yesterday I saw the large blooms instead of seed heads.

 

 

 

Widforss trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAlong the first rise of the trail I asked the students to walk slowly, quietly, using all their senses, practice forest bathing.  I felt fall, the air crisp, saw one or two yellow aspen leaves on the trail, but the trees above us still held an only slightly off green.  We walked about a mile making a few stops along the way where I talked about the Ponderosa Pine, Kaibab squirrel, and pointed out some plants.  Then stopped with a view of the canyon and talked about geology.  From there they walked on down the trail and I returned to the trail head.  Took off early and packed for my now two and a half day weekend to shop in the heat of St. George, Utah.

 

 

Aspen turning SR67 North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Aspen turning SR67 North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFlowers still bloom alongside the road in yellows and purples.  Some of the aspen wear a golden bronze, cheap and dirty, instead of the bright yellows that usually appear in September.  Mullen stands tall, stalks still green and fluffing out with tiny yellow flowers lining the stem.  Last year’s Mullen towers above with brown stalks looking almost like cattails.

2006 Warm Fire SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaRegeneration of aspen in the 2006 Warm Fire thick like hair on a dog.  It’s an interesting topography with 6-15 foot (1.6-2.5 m) aspen surrounding snags of 50-60+ feet (15-25+ m).  Some of the old burnt snags are sculptural like totem poles, and sometimes the twisted tops look like a bird but are usually not although I did see one today.  Fire’s art.

Vermilion Cliffs SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaFluffy clouds hung high above the Vermilion cliffs leaving shadows on the land while the mid-day sun washed out the usually brilliant colors.  Clusters of smiling sunflowers scattered along the road as I dropped through the Juniper/Pinyon woodlands.  A rock squirrel skittered into the grass.

As I drove off the Kaibab Plateau towards Kanab I couldn’t get Joni’s song out of my head.  Am I the painted pony going up and down on this carousel called life?  It’s a contrast of seasons as fall approaches high elevation.  Yet down in Kanab, in the high 80s (30 C) and St George 100+ (~40 C).

90F (32 C) at 5000 feet (1524 m) and AC on as I hit the long stretch past White Sage.  A roadrunner raced across the road, appropriately named.

And once again I heard in my head:  “…as the seasons they go round and round.”

 

Circle Game  by Joni Mitchell

Yesterday a child came out to wonder
Caught a dragonfly inside a jar
Fearful when the sky was full of thunder
And tearful at the falling of a star
Then the child moved ten times round the seasons
Skated over ten clear frozen streams
Words like when you’re older must appease him
And promises of someday make his dreams
And the seasons they go round and round
And the painted ponies go up and down
We’re captive on the carousel of time
We can’t return we can only look
Behind from where we came
And go round and round and round
In the circle game
Sixteen springs and sixteen summers gone now
Cartwheels turn to car wheels thru the town
And they tell him take your time it won’t be long now
Till you drag your feet to slow the circles down
And the seasons they go round and round
And the painted ponies go up and down
We’re captive on the carousel of time
We can’t return we can only look
Behind from where we came
And go round and round and round
In the circle game
So the years spin by and now the boy is twenty
Though his dreams have lost some grandeur coming true
There’ll be new dreams maybe better dreams and plenty
Before the last revolving year is through
And the seasons they go round and round
And the painted ponies go up and down
We’re captive on the carousel of time
We can’t return we can only look
Behind from where we came
And go round and round and round
In the circle game

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10 August 2016

Camping on the Kaibab National Forest

July 26 & 27, 2016

So many possibilities for camping on the Kaibab.  Just about every gravel Forest Road (FR) offers obvious opportunities within a couple miles of pavement, or much farther if you choose.  Our choice was at the western edge of the old 2006 Warm fire where I hoped to maybe see some condors.

Cow Mile & a Half Lake camp SR212 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaInstead we saw cows in our shared meadow and pine forest at Mile-and-a-half Lake along FR212 on the Kaibab National Forest.  But they kept their distance and no other people stopped by.

Light on grass & trees Mile & a Half Lake camp SR212 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaSunlight streamed through the trees highlighting grasses and the deep ruddy bark of ponderosa.  The sweet smell reminds me of cookies fresh out of the oven.

Forest Mile & a Half Lake camp SR212 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaA rather open forest from some obvious selective cutting and burns yet the trees march on out of sight.

Camp SR212 Mile & a Half Lake Kaibab National Forest ArizonaSeveral fire rings indicated others have camped here before but at that time there was still a fire ban on the Kaibab.

Mile & a Half Lake camp SR212 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaBill enjoyed the open sky inside our ring of trees.  He suffers from dendrophobia you know.  And Sasha sniffed her way around the perimeter leaving her social media messages on every blade of grass.

 

Gaelyn's shadow Mile & a Half Lake camp SR212 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaUnlike the almost hot day before at Crazy Jug looking for shade we moved our chairs to follow the sun at this higher elevation.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Mile & a Half Lake camp SR212 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaBirds singing lovely songs flitted in and out far too fast for me to photograph.  A few “pies” scattered around yet all in all a nice quiet place to spend a night camping under the stars.

Mile & a Half Lake SR212 Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Mile & a Half Lake SR212 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaIn the morning under better light conditions we took a short walk to look down on the lake.  It was more like a mud wallow for cattle.  The fence didn’t slow them down a bit.

Sun on grass Mile & a Half Lake camp SR212 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaNo rush to leave so relaxed in camp and watched the morning light play on the grasses and trees.

Crane Lake SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaHit the nearby pavement around noon after saying goodbyes to head home in opposite directions.  I drove south on SR67 past more meadows with shrinking waterholes like at Crane Lake.

North Rim Country Store & Kaibab Lodge SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaPast the North Rim Country Store and the Kaibab Lodge.

Meadows & entrance station SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThrough the entrance back into the park.  Can you see the station building at what appears the end of the road?

Bison SR67 North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAnd just inside the park saw the bison causing a traffic jam.

Touron & bison SR67 South North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaPlus a Touron stupidious maximus.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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