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Category: Grand Canyon National Park South Rim

26 July 2023

No bad views of Grand Canyon

Wotons Throne & Cape Royal Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

view S Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZMultiple views of Grand Canyon, Wotan’s Throne from South Rim and North Rim

When I was a Park Ranger visitors frequently asked which side is better, there’s no bad views of Grand Canyon, so visit both sides.  And that’s what I did.

trees canyon CO R clouds Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

light in canyon Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZOn this summer journey, I planned to enjoy views of Grand Canyon from both sides, starting with the South Rim.  So after my wonderful loop drive from Sunset Crater to Wupatki national monuments I continued north on SR89 to Cameron and entered the park from the east side, so much less crowded than the main Village area.

orange Globe Mallow flowers canyon CO R clouds Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

Desert View Tower Navajo Pt SR GRCA NP AZI stopped at Navajo Point and under cloudy skies enjoyed the views of Grand Canyon including a distant look at the Desert View Watch Tower.

truckcamper Kaibab NF AZThen I continued to my forest camp only one mile of rough and rutted dirt road to boondock for the night with a gentle rain.  Not overcrowded, this Kaibab National Forest location is along the way to the Grandview Fire Tower, where I camped last summer.

west view Moran Pt SR GRCA NP AZ

temple pk Moran Pt SR GRCA NP AZThe next day I met a Ranger friend at Moran Point and we spent the day catching up, reminiscing, and enjoying views of Grand Canyon.  I am always amazed that the average park visitor doesn’t spend more than two minutes at an overlook.

 late light Ponderosa Pine needles FR310 Kaibab NF AZ

Ponderosa Pine flower FR310 Kaibab NF AZ

pine pollen puddle reflection FR310 Kaibaba NF AZPine pollen on puddle

pine pollen on windshield S Kaibab NF AZPollen on truck

It rained intermittently over the next several days so I was glad to have a great signal and worked on the next video about Arivaca Creek and the Cruz Ranch and a blog post about my visit to Bisbee during early June.  Yes, I’m that far behind.  The rain helped clear the air of Pine pollen.

CO R Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

Desert View Watchtower SR GRCA NP AZAfter five nights in this forest location it was time to hit the road for some new views of Grand Canyon.  First stop at Desert View Watch Tower, the furthest east overlook with some of my favorite South Rim views of Grand Canyon.

blue Larkspur flowers FR310 Kaibab NF AZMoth on orange Globe Mallow flower Desert View SR GRCA NP AZ

                           Larkspur                                                                                Globe Mallow

I parked in the oversized vehicle lot and walked due west to the rim following a social trail towards the tower with lots of flowers along the way.

Desert View Watchtower SR GRCA NP AZ

GRCA stickers & hat pinThe only reason I went inside the tower was to add another sticker and hat pin to my collections.

SR89 N AZ

Echo Cliffs Navajo Rez SR89 N AZOnce back to SR89 I headed north across the amazing Navajo Reservation desert landscape.

Echo & Vermilion Cliffs SR89A W AZ

menu Cliff Dwellers SR89A Hatch AZStopped for lunch at Cliff Dwellers then climbed up onto the Kaibab Plateau and much cooler temperatures at 7,000 feet.

cookies Jacob Lake Inn AZOf course I had to get desert at Jacob Lake Inn.

truckcamper Jacob Lake AZThen opted to camp nearby.

cows person Crane Lk snow Kaibab NF AZIn the morning I drove south across the Kaibab National Forest surprised at how full the lakes were in the meadows.  Guess I should have expected that because of the record breaking snow fall.

light on Aspen Kaibab NF AZStopped at the entrance station and said hello to a known Ranger then continued to the end of the road.

Grand Lodge verandah NR GRCA NP AZParking wasn’t a problem because the Lodge wasn’t open yet for food service or overnight accommodations.  All that snow followed by melt took out a huge section of both the water pipe and North Kaibab trail so they were under water restrictions.

view from lodge NR GRCA NP AZNo Rangers in the visitor center as it’s now all sales space for the history association.

Mt Hayden Pt Imperial NR GRCA NP AZ

Saddle Mt Marble Canyon Vermilion Cliffs clouds Pt Imperial NR GRCA NP AZEnough of that, I wanted more views of Grand Canyon.  So I drove the scenic road with the first stop at Point Imperial.  I actually had the overlook entirely to myself for a measurable amount of time.

Greenland Lake NR GRCA NP AZ


light on Aspen leaves NR GRCA NP AZ

Made another stop at Greenland Lake, the fullest I’ve ever seen, and I’ve seen it bone dry.  “Lakes” on the Kaibab are actually sinkholes in the limestone, not huge but good water sources for wildlife.

Wotons Throne Wedding Site NR GRCA NP AZ

yellow Desert Sunflower flowers in rock hole Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZThen on to the end of the road to Cape Royal for my favorite views of Grand Canyon.

sunset Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

sunset thru pines Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

sunset Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZ

Wotons Throne sunset clouds Cape Royal NR GRCA NP AZEspecially sunset.

Deer Lake Kaibab NF AZDeer Lake

view E Marble Plateau Vermilion Cliffs Navajo Mt Kaibab NF AZView east Vermilion & Echo Cliffs with Navajo Mt beyond

I could have stayed for days stopping at every overlook for many hours enjoying a variety of views of Grand Canyon.  However, I had other places to go and people to see.  So I headed back north with just a couple stops along the way.  Including Jacob Lake Inn once again for a dozen cookies to take as treats for the friends I’d visit in Kanab, Utah.

Push my buttons!

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Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park, North Rim, Places I've been, RV life, South Rim, United States national parks, Park Ranger, RV living, summer 2023 20 Comments
20 July 2022

Grand Canyon Ponderosa petrichor and views too

late light canyon birds storm clouds sun rays Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaA much needed mini-vacation to escape the heat found me breathing deep of the Grand Canyon Ponderosa petrichor while exploring the lesser visited eastern end of the South Rim under monsoon skies and boondocking in the adjacent Kaibab National Forest.

plateaus sunset clouds sunrays Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

canyon sunrays sunset clouds Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaOK, I left you hanging last week, but I wasn’t sure what would happen. After shooting sunset over Grand Canyon, I decided not to drive back into the forest in the dark and chanced staying in the Desert View parking lot.  Turned out I was undisturbed through the night*.

sunrise Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

sunrise Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

sunrise Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWoke up 30 minutes before the alarm set at a ridiculous 4:30am, made and drank only a little coffee as the sky was brightening.  I grabbed water and gear, including the tripod, and headed directly to Desert View Watchtower.  I was the only person there and moved all around the 180° possible without having wings.

canyon Colorado River sunrise Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Cedar Mt sunrise clouds Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaIt was a pretty sunrise, but I’ve seen better, and this was a difficult place to shoot.  Now I know.

Watchtower from Navajo Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaLooking east back at the Watchtower

After an early breakfast I headed back west, first stop Navajo Point and again had the place to myself.

light & shadow inner canyon Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

three Ravens Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFollowed by a quick stop at Lipan Point where I was entertained by a trio of over-friendly Ravens.  It was just them and me.

I was exhausted from a restless night and too early morning so headed back to the national forest to find a new camp that I wouldn’t have to share.  Got settled under the pines and after lunch took a nap.  Awoke to soft rain on the roof and the delightful smell of Ponderosa petrichor pouring in my open door and windows.

Abert squirrels Kaibab National Forest ArizonaMovement caught my eye about 50 feet into the forest as two Abert squirrels chased each other in unabandoned delight, for them and me.  They came pretty close to the camper but I dared not open the door so grabbed the camera and shot through the screen.  The first of these tassel-eared squirrels I’d seen this visit.  Used to see their cousins, Kaibab squirrels, on the North Rim all the time with the main visual difference being Abert has a white belly and only underside of tail is white.  Both delightfully entertaining.

The next morning I woke way too early and don’t plan to make a habit of it.  Rained lightly on and off for a good part of the day so I sat inside working on a blog post and goofing around online.  So amazing, I can be sitting in a forest deep and get a darn good signal.

Abert squirrel camp2 FR310 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaLook closely at the bottom center

I sat outside soaking up the afternoon, listening to distant rumbles, watching the clouds drift away to the northwest, and just before dusk the Abert squirrels came back.

Abert Squirrel Kaibab National Forest ArizonaPonderosa petrichor and squirrels were the next days entertainment as well.  Wish I could bottle the essence of petrichor in the forest, and the desert too.  Geosmin is the chemical that produces that unmistakable aroma of petrichor, which loosely translates as earth odor.  I think the scent helps keep me calm because after working all day on the Rambling Road Trip to Grand Canyon video, it scrambled, lost audio, and partly disappeared from Movie Maker.  Instead of screaming, I went to bed.

canyon river West Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWith a weekend approaching I decided to get to the rim once again before the crowds.  So, after coffee and checking emails I rolled off this delightful forest camp and returned to my favorite eastern overlook, Lipan Point.  Much better than another day at the computer.

canyon West clouds LIpan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaWhen I pulled in to park a car in front of me parked in the middle of the parallel over-sized vehicle parking when there was plenty of car parking available.  I rolled down my window and asked her to move mentioning this being for big rigs like mine.  She did and I thanked her.  Then I parked there most of the day.

canyon river Walhalla Plateau storm cloud Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

canyon river West & North clouds Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaEnjoyed time out along the rim watching a storm build over the Walhalla Plateau on the North Rim.  After lunch I continued to enjoy the view from the camper while working on the next blog post.

pair Ravens Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThe Lipan Raven trio begged from every person who got out of their car, and frequently got fed.  What amazes me is how briefly people stay at the overlook, two minutes tops for a quick oh-ah, selfie, and gone.  Unless it’s a van full of Asians because they all have to take an individual selfie, in the exact same place and line up to do it.  I was tempted to set up camera on tripod to watch people and cars come and go so quickly. I’d laugh if it wasn’t so sad.

Raven on rock Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaThose Ravens came right up to the step below my open camper door with Sierra almost ready to pounce if they came any closer.  I did get a little video that will be shared when I get to it.  Later when back out at the rim, I saw where the Ravens stashed some of their begged treats in holes in a rock.  They are too smart for their own health.

North Rim rain clouds Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaStorm clouds danced over the canyon all day but by late afternoon the sky was a dense gray that didn’t forebode well for any sunset colors so I returned to the forest to find another camp.

pine pollen puddle Kaibab National Forest ArizonaPonderosa Pine pollen puddle

puddle cloud reflection quins Kaibab National Forest ArizonaPuddlequins

The entire next day it rained on and off, sometimes soft and gentle female rain, but also hard and long enough to create puddles.  Sure was glad I didn’t have to go anywhere.

Ponderosa Pine clouds camp3 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaFelt like the Ponderosa Pine Symphony complete with light show and heavy percussion.  I love to feel the rumble, hear the birds, taste the rain, smell the Ponderosa petrichor, and see sun light patches on the forest floor. 

bird tree last light glow Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI was able to recover the messed up video after much searching for answers but there were more problems to come.

Saturday dawned sunny and bright which dried most of the puddles and solar charged the camper battery.  I uploaded the repaired video.  Yet it seems nothing is easy in YouTube. I must have searched for well over an hour how to add music and then it got stuck so I didn’t know if I added enough or any at all.  I’m not knowledgeable about music but figured anything would be an improvement over the engine noise that isn’t reduced by the external microphone with wind ball. I know it should get easier eventually, but some of this really isn’t fun.  Sorry, there’s no music.

The scent is described as vanilla or butterscotch, to me it’s cookies

Stayed sunny most of the day with just enough sprinkles to enhance the Ponderosa petrichor.

fading view East to Watchtower Grandview Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI rolled out of camp Sunday morning and headed to the rim and west to Grandview Point.  I planned to hang out there enjoying the view for several hours then meet a friend for lunch in the Village near the Market.

Horseshoe Mesa Grandview Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFrom this overlook, the Grandview trail drops 2500 feet in 3 miles to Horseshoe Mesa then splits east and west to other backcountry options (permits needed).  The original trail was built in 1890 by Pete Berry and fellow miners to the Last Chance Mine.  It’s said the copper ore was rich but the amount was small.  So Berry built the Grandview Hotel in 1897, first hotel along the rim, and offered mule rides into the canyon.  Tourism was born.  Then the railroad arrived to the south rim in 1901, 14 miles away, copper prices crashed six years later, and by 1908 the hotel shut down and was later dismantled.

tree tops dark clouds South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaAfter lunch it poured and I left the park heading south into a different area of the Kaibab National Forest in search of another camp before driving home Monday.  And so enjoyed a little more Ponderosa petrichor.

*Disclaimer:  I am in no way advocating or recommending “camping” in national park parking lots.  However, if you are self contained, respectful, and plan to photograph at night, it’s really the only option.  Just be prepared for the late night knock.  In the future, I would consider putting a sign on the dash and camper door, “Photographing night sky”, and just hope for the best.

Sierra cat Kaibab National Forest ArizonaStill seeking kitty sitter for a stayCATion for a week in mid-September.  Could be either stationary in the big 5th-wheel Skull Valley, Arizona.  OR,  Consider travel in the truckcamper at your own expense.  Sierra is a wonderful glamper and companion once she gets to know you.

Push my buttons!

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Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park South Rim, monsoon, Places I've been, United States boondocking, Kaibab National Forest, petrichor, photography, Ponderosa Pine 19 Comments
13 July 2022

Pack and go to Grand Canyon

Vishnu Temple & Wotons Throne canyon clouds Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFinally, I get to travel, so I packed the camper and left to go to Grand Canyon.  Boondocked on the Kaibab National Forest near Grandview Lookout Tower and explored the eastern end of the South Rim.  It’s a Grand adventure because I’m not all that familiar with this side of the big ditch.

grass bush Brushy Mt clouds Skull Valley ArizonaI may not travel on holidays like 4th of July, but that doesn’t stop me from making a plan to go to Grand Canyon this month.  And I like to pack slowly so started off with filling water bottles and loading them into the truck.  Eight gallons will ride on the passenger seat floor and five more inside the camper.  That’s over a week’s worth of water and I can refill in the park.

hat pins on curtain in camperAnother project was to move my hatpin collection from one curtain to another…

new curtains…because, I made a new curtain for the camper.  Bought a Pier One lap-blanket at a thrift store that is just the right green (unlike the photo) and size when cut in half.  I don’t sew but a glue gun worked just fine to hold a casing and hem.  Three “C” hooks reinforce the tension rod.  I’m happy with how it turned out.  Nice and heavy to keep out the winter cold and bright morning light.  I know, it’s summer.  But the job had to be done.

Sierra cat Skull Valley ArizonaIn order to go to the Grand Canyon I needed to create and schedule blog posts and videos.  So I spent more than a day at the computer with my assistant staying close by.  She seems to know we’re going to travel.  I packed a few more things but really had to wait until morning for most of the food stuff.

metal sculptures Valle ArizonaSeen in Valle

Finished packing and hit the road Thursday morning about nine.  Shopping and diesel fuel at $5.53/gallon on the way.  I really wasn’t rushing as I didn’t want to arrive at the park entrance during the busiest time mid-day.

arch Gateway to Grand Canyon Williams Arizona

RT66 store Williams ArizonaDrove through historic Williams then headed north on SR64.  Took video almost the whole way and will create a Rambling Road Trip for my YouTube channel.

Red Butte SR64 North ArizonaRed Butte

Pulled up to the park entrance at 4pm and after three rigs in front of me I was ready to go to Grand Canyon, but not the main Village area.  Instead I headed east towards Desert View Watchtower.

canyon Duck on a Rock overlook South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMy first stop to actually see the canyon, Duck on a rock, is just wide parking along the north side of the road.

canyon Grandview Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI also stopped at Grandview Point but didn’t stay long as I wanted to find a boondock camp for the night.

About one mile out of the park on a rather rutted gravel road I entered the Kaibab National Forest, parked at the first obvious camp, and made a 360° video.  I knew this wasn’t going to be a private site so wasn’t surprised when a motorhome arrived and parked nearby.  Sadly, this German family had three tiny yet noisy children.  Thankfully, they pulled out in the morning.

pink Pincushion cactus flowers bee Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAfter a late breakfast, I walked the road about 3/4 mile to Grandview Lookout Tower.  Along the way I saw several other nice campsites and thought I would choose one another day.  Bright pink cactus flowers beckoned me into the forest and a cell tower was a total surprise.  No wonder I had a decent signal in camp.

Grandview lookout tower Kaibab National Forest Arizona

looking up tower Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAs I approached the parking below the fire tower, four side-by-sides on tour roared up.  Some of the group climbed and others did not.  They didn’t stay long and I had the place to myself.

up stairs Grandview Lookout Tower Kaibab National Forest ArizonaSo I climbed, the first set of stairs.  Even though I am not afraid of heights it’s a little disconcerting to look down through a gridded step.  I tried mostly to look straight ahead.

looking down thru Grandview lookout tower Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI stopped at the first landing, fascinated by the lines and patterns of the structure.  Then I climbed the second set of stairs.

looking up Grandview lookout tower Kaibab National Forest ArizonaBuilt by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1936, the steel Grandview tower is 80 feet tall with a 7×7 foot cab on top that wasn’t currently staffed so I couldn’t get inside.  Yet I decided to climb the third set of steps to get a view above the trees.

view North from tower Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThe two-room cabin accommodates the fire lookout person.

canyon view N from tower Kaibab National Forest Arizona

canyon view North from tower Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI could barely see the Walhalla Plateau on the North Rim to the left and that’s Echo Cliff between the trees on the right.  At 40 feet up I could tell this wasn’t going to be an exemplary place to shoot the upcoming full moon, even with clear skies.  So that was far enough for me.

going down Grandview lookout tower Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI took a bunch of video but had to hold both rails on the way down.  Maybe I’d come back if I moved camp closer for a chance at sunset, if not the moon.

Nuthatch bird Kaibab National Forest ArizonaNuthatch

grass trees Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThe next day after choosing photos to process from the tower, I spent most of the day sitting outside, watching birds, breathing deep the rich smell of a Ponderosa Pine forest, and even a short walk about camp.  A new neighbor came over and we chatted for a while.

trees sunset from camp Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThe evening ended under an orange glow.

A partly cloudy morning called me to get out and go to Grand Canyon.  So I slowly bounced my way out of the National Forest and back to pavement.  I drove east thinking I’d be at the Desert View Watchtower for sunset.  But there were several overlooks to explore along the way.

light & shadow canyon Colorado River Moran Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

light & shadow canyon walls Moran Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaMoran Point, named for famous artist Thomas Moran who joined John Wesley Powell in 1873 on an expedition to go to Grand Canyon.  He later used sketches and photographs to paint the 7×12 foot “Chasm of the Colorado” that hangs in Congress to this day.  Sadly, his depiction is not an actual location but a composite of imagination.

view West canyon river clouds Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaNext stop Lipan Point offering some of the most expansive views with the longest perspective of the Colorado River.  To the west can be seen the oldest rock, 1.75 billion years, carved by the river within the inner gorge.

Colorado River Unkar Delta shadows Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBelow, the “S” curves of the Colorado carve through the rare red tilted layers of the 1255-1100 million years old Supergroup.  The lower left sandbar, called Unkar Delta, is where ancient Puebloan people lived and grew crops between 850 to 1200AD.

view East & Northeast canyon river clouds Lipan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaLooking upstream the river appears around a bend coming from the north, and the Marble Plateau can be seen with Echo Cliffs on the eastern horizon.

canyon Colorado River clouds Desert View Watchtower South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI next stopped at Navajo Point mostly for the exceptional view of the stone built Desert View Watchtower, where I planned to be for sunset.

It was hot that afternoon so I found a shady place to park in the oversized vehicle lot for the tower and after a reconnaissance walk to the rim returned to the camper for a nap followed by dinner.

canyon river sunrays clouds Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

sunset rays clouds temples Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

canyon sunburst sunset clouds Desert View South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaSunset was Grand, and lasted for about an hour as I stood in awe watching rays beam down highlighting the temples and topography.

Sadly, the first-come first-serve Desert View campground had been full at noon.  I really didn’t want to drive back into the forest after dark.  So, I opted to stay put and figured if anybody came by to kick me out I’d tell them I wasn’t camping but was hoping the clouds would clear so I could photograph the night sky, and then be there for sunrise.  All good reasons to go to Grand Canyon.

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Arizona, Grand Canyon National Park South Rim, Places I've been, United States boondocking, camping, photography, RV, sunset, travel, video 31 Comments
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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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  • Memorable Meanders
  • Oh, The Places They Go
  • On the Road Abode
  • Port Elizabeth Daily Photo
  • Stillhowlyntravels
  • Take to the Highway
  • Technomadia
  • the good luck Duck
  • Travel with the Bayfield Bunch
  • Wandering Earl
  • Wheeling It
  • Yogi's Den

Caught in a Slot 9×12 canvas print under $50

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