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Category: Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

07 September 2017

Overnight at Lee’s Ferry

August 22-23, 2017

map park forest monument Navajo reservation ArizonaAfter watching part of the partial solar eclipse and enjoying multiple gorgeous sunrises, sets and rainbows I headed off the Kaibab Plateau to Page for a grocery run before staying overnight at Lee’s Ferry to break up the drive home, and sit with the Colorado River a bit as I love to do.

stormy sky from Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaSaid goodbye to some crazy monsoon skies at Marble View wondering if I’d head into rain watching the clouds in my intended direction.

stormy sky Marble Platform Vermilion & Echo Cliffs SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaStopped at an overlook along SR67 on the Kaibab and could still see cloudy weather.

stormy sky Marble Platform Vermilion & Echo Cliffs SR89A Kaibab National Forest Arizona

stormy sky Marble Platform Vermilion & Echo Cliffs SR89A Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThen another look from an overlook along SR89A.

stormy sky Vermilion & Echo Cliffs SR89A East ArizonaThought about stopping to grab a campsite at Lee’s Ferry on the way to Page but decided I could camp on House Rock Valley if the campground was full.

Echo Cliffs SR89 North Arizona

Marble Platform Vermilion Cliffs Kaibab Plateau clouds from SR89 North to Page ArizonaSeemed to have left the heavy clouds behind climbing up to Page on SR89 yet could still see them hanging over the Kaibab Plateau.

Marble Platform Vermilion Cliffs clouds SR89A North ArizonaTook care of shopping business as quick as possible then reversed the drive back down and headed to Lee’s Ferry.

boats Colorado River Echo Cliffs Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Marble Canyon ArizonaNo need to have worried about a full campground as it was half empty and I think there was a group filling the top end.  It was only 95°F that day and the night down to high 60s so didn’t feel terribly hot.  I snagged my favorite campsite then headed down to the river.  Boats were being put in late in the afternoon.  Always fun to watch the activity and dream of going along.

Colorado River & muddy Paria River flow below Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThen I moved down stream to hang out in a quieter place along the river and listen to her song.

Blue Heron Colorado River Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Killdeer Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaStartled a blue heron fishing along the shore and flushed out what I believe is a Killdeer, or plover of some kind, feel free to chime in here.

muddy Paria River flows into Colorado River below Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThe Paria River was flashing muddy waters into the blue-green Colorado.

Gaelyn's shadow Colorado River cliffs below Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThe shadows grew long and I headed back to camp for dinner.

sunset rays Vermilion Cliffs from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

last light Echo Cliffs from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

last light Echo Cliffs Colorado River from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

sunset Vermilion Cliffs from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaSun set behind the Vermilion Cliffs casting last light on the opposite canyon walls.  Plus a little color lit up the clouds.

sunrise from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

first light Vermilion Cliffs from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

first light Echo Cliffs from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaWoke up to a colorful sunrise above the cliffs and river.  And in reverse from the sunset a rosy glow showed up on the opposite canyon walls.

sunrise rays Echo Cliffs Colorado River from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThe still invisible sun allowed rays to find their way and reach to the sky.

sun rays Echo Cliffs Colorado River from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

morning light Vermilion Cliffs from camp Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaAs the morning lightened the sun finally found its way over the cliffs to brighten the day.  Notice I’m seeing more sunrises as I’m motivated by the amazing light and shadows of the golden hour.  I could watch the colors of the rocks change throughout the day.

leaving road Lee's Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaYet getting up early actually got me on the road by 7:30, as I did have groceries to put away at home.

Navajo Bridges cross Marble Canyon Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaBut first, a stop along the way at Navajo Bridge to look for Condors and didn’t see any.

Interpretive Center Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon ArizonaThe old looking visitor center was actually opened in 1997 after the completion of the new and wider bridge.  It has a small parking lot that is not big rig friendly but there is parking along SR89A in Marble Canyon only a short walk away.

clouds over Kaibab Plateau SR89A West Arizona

highway Marble Platform Vermilion & Echo Cliffs clouds from SR89A Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThen back across the Marble platform and up onto the Kaibab Plateau with another stop to look back where I just came from.

road cut clouds Kaibab National Forest SR89A West Arizona

road cut forest clouds Kaibab National Forest SR89A West Arizona

meadows forest clouds SR67 South Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAnd finally continued up in elevation from desert through juniper/pinyon into ponderosa forest, across meadows, and home.

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Arizona, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Lee’s Ferry, Places I've been, United States camping, road trip, shopping, sunrise, sunset 14 Comments
01 November 2016

Back on the road to Grand Canyon

Truck camper Yarnell ArizonaFeeling settled in and unpacked in my 5th-wheel home and the camper is back on the truck so it must be time to get back on the road again.  I drive up to Grand Canyon’s south rim Thursday and meet Bill.  Just can’t get enough of that big ditch.

Grand Canyon Historical Society t-shirt logoMade reservations for the 4th Grand Canyon History Symposium in August.  Check in Friday November 4th from 5-7pm followed by a special evening presentation about the WPA Park Posters by Doug Leen.  Saturday there is a full agenda of 16 presenters and another special evening program called Grand Canyon’s Fifty Finest Features presented by Gary Ladd.  Subjects range from Native American stories, photography, botany, architecture, river running and more.  Then Sunday from 9-11am Lyle Balenquah and Jason Nez will lead a special tour.  Plus Saturday historic boats will be displayed outside the Shrine of Ages.

Friends have offered parking and we can use Bill’s truck and the shuttles to get around.  I’m really excited about this learning opportunity.  Four years ago I attended this symposium and learned a lot at this “gathering of professional and avocational historians who will speak about historical topics specific to Grand Canyon National Park.  The goals of the symposium are to increase the knowledge and understanding of the history pertaining to the Grand Canyon and adjacent areas, and to promote communication and sharing among canyon historians, writers and enthusiasts.”

Glen Canyon Dam at Colorado River overlook Page ArizonaThen Monday we’re off to Page for the water release at Glen Canyon Dam beginning at 10am.  This is the fourth high-flow experiment “to move sand stored in the river channel and redeposit it to rebuild eroded sandbars and beaches downstream of the Paria River in Grand Canyon National Park.”

Stormy sunrise Lone Rock Lake Powell UtahThat night we plan to camp at the Glen Canyon Dam National Recreation Area Lone Rock beach along Lake Powell.

Colorado River downstream Lees Ferry ArizonaTuesday we’ll go to Lee’s Ferry below the dam and see what the water flow looks like from there.

Colorado River Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon ArizonaThis should also include a stop at Navajo Bridge where we might get lucky and see a California Condor, or two.  Plus the Rio de Colorado should be running true to form as a River of Red.

Condor 54 soaring Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon Arizona

BTW, Veteran’ Day November 11 is a Fee Free day to all National Parks.  Personally, I have a Senior Geezer Pass so go free every day.  How about you?  Which park will you visit?

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Arizona, Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, Grand Canyon National Park South Rim, National Parks and Monuments history symposium, road trip, water release 18 Comments
06 July 2016

Taking guests to the Colorado River

June 30, 2016

Lee's Ferry boat launch area along Colorado River Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

With so many choices of amazing landscapes within a few hours drive of the North Rim Grand Canyon we settled on taking our guests to the Colorado River with a bit of history thrown in.

House Rock Valley & Paria Plateau from overlook SR89A East Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Diane and Nigel live in France  and regularly travel to historic sites.  So after a full day of touring the North Rim, Bill and I took them off the cool Kaibab Plateau and headed east into the heat.  It was Bill’s turn to play tour guide as this is more his neck of the woods desert.  First stop at a favorite overlook on SR89A looking down upon the Marble Platform and beyond to Vermilion Cliffs put the landscape into perspective.

 

Colorado River from Navajo Bridge Marble Canyon ArizonaAfter crossing House Rock Valley we stopped at Navajo Bridge where we hoped to show our guests California Condors.  No luck.  Yet still a pretty view of the river carving through Marble Canyon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Diane & Gaelyn Colorado River Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaNext we headed to Lees Ferry and the Colorado River where the air was hot and the water cold.  Not many easy opportunities to wade in the mighty Colorado what with Glen Canyon dam and the 1000s of foot deep Grand Canyon.  Yet I don’t remember any of us getting our feet wet.  Thanks Bill for taking a pic of Diane and I.

 

 

 

Couple fishing Colorado River Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaA couple was fishing.  She waded into the river to bring the fish to shore.  Not sure what kind of fish, but after a phone photo she put it back in the river to swim free.  Even on an almost 100F day that 52F (11C) water is too cold for me.

Then we headed just past the boat launch area with it late enough in the day that no boats were preparing for their downstream adventures.  Only saw one small trailer in the campground.

1910 Stone building Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Diane through window of 1910 Stone building Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaDidn’t linger too long around the stone buildings that remain from Charles H. Spencer’s attempt to extract gold from the nearby colorful clay hills in 1910.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Route South side of Colorado River from Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Lees Ferry operated from 1872 until 1928 providing pioneers, miners, Indians, and tourists a way to cross the swift flowing Colorado River.  Looking across river to where horse drawn wagons would descend to the river made me think of how brave, determined, or stupid, the early settlers to this part of the country were.

Map Lonely Dell Ranch Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area ArizonaThe Lonely Dell Ranch, near the mouth of the Paria River, was home to the Mormon families who operated Lees Ferry.  Being so isolated meant they needed to be self-sufficient, growing food for themselves and their animals.

 

 

 

 

Lonely Dell Ranch orchard Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

We found a cool respite in the shade of the orchard.  The irrigation system was running in one row, the water being drawn off the Colorado River.  Diane and Nigel said the apples were not quite ripe and deliciously tart.  I found a ripe plumb the critters had missed.  We saw peaches, pears, apricots and perhaps quince.  When ripe, you’re allowed to gather 5 gallons per day per person for personal consumption only, not resale.  I’ve missed harvest before but would like to return in a few weeks to try again.

Lonely Dell Ranch Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Bill wandered ahead to the historically preserved buildings while the rest of us got caught up in the orchard and amazing backdrop.

Stormy skies over Paria Plateau from Lees Ferry Glen Canyon National Recreation Area Arizona

Clouds threatened over the Paria Plateau and the parched landscape below would surely benefit from some life giving rain.  A good time to grab some lunch.

Neither Bill or I had been to the Marble Canyon Lodge Restaurant since rebuilt after the 2013 fire.  Not sure I’ll be back any time soon.  Although the over priced food was OK the service wasn’t great and the ambiance of the old historic building is gone.

Vermilion Cliffs SR89A House Rock Valley Arizona

One more historic site along SR89A on the return drive offers a nice view of the Vermilion Cliffs.  The old Mormon Honeymoon trail follows the cliffs and a ranch stop would be nearby.  A deep patch of green tucked into a crack in the walls indicates a spring which would have been very welcome in this dry environment.

House Rock Valley & Paria Plateau from overlook SR89A Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Also stopped again at the overlook to the valley below and the Paria Plateau with much better lighting than our morning stop.

Clouds over Turtle Rock Kaibab National Forest Arizona

And at Nigel’s request Bill found a wide spot along the windy road back up to the Kaibab Plateau where we photographed what I’ve heard called Turtle Rock.  Do you see it?

Then back to the North Rim to drop Diane and Nigel off at their room while Bill and I returned to my RV where we both went to bed early after two days of touring.

 

Rainbow over canyon Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBill left the next day and it was back to work for me on their last full day at the North Rim which provided some teasing monsoon skies.  Saturday morning Diane and Nigel were whisked away by friends to Bryce National Park overnight, and through Zion National Park on the return to Nevada where they would all too soon fly back to France.  Keep watch for Diane’s posts on their adventures in the USA.

 

Only 85 miles (137 km) drive east from the North Rim Grand Canyon National Park, a 5 mile (8 km) side trip off SR89 from the tiny burg of Marble Canyon, Arizona leads to Lees Ferry where you can wade in the Colorado River.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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