A visitor at Bryce Canyon told me about hiking the Tropic Trail below the park’s main amphitheater and because I’m still connecting the dots to learn the geography of the surrounding landscape I decided to check it out.
Two weeks ago on my second of two days off I headed out thinking I might stop at Fairyland Point and Mossy Cave on the way to the Tropic Trail. I have to watch carefully for Utah Prairie Dogs every time I drive out the road from my RV as there is a fenced colony at the junction with SR63. A horse trail crosses the main road and the critters come out to find feed, seed, and insects to eat making them vulnerable to vehicles. On this day I saw pups with adults.
No space to park my big truckcamper at the small lot for Fairyland Point with only about 12 spaces all full.
The drive east on SR12 is spectacular so I have to stop and take in the view. And there are hoodoos here too.
Sometimes I can’t stop so take photos through the dirty windshield. I call that street photography.
Another full parking lot at Mossy Cave which is back in Bryce Canyon National Park, and a place I returned to in a couple days.
No problem parking at the Tropic Trailhead with only three vehicles parked around the edges of a moderate-sized culdesac and room for several more.
The first thing I heard was a soft clicking I immediately recognized as Cicadas. Yet they seemed so quiet compared to the almost deafening sound I’d heard in the Pacific Northwest, and the Midwest where I grew up. Took a little searching but I found them munching away on the Gamble Oak leaves. Wish I had recorded their sound. Glad someone at Bryce did.
Really appreciated the three step turnstile over a fence to keep grazing animals out of the Bryce Canyon Wilderness Area.
A fine forest of Pinyon and Juniper plus Ponderosa Pine and Gamble Oak looking up at the walls of Bryce with intermittent shade and very little elevation gain.
Primrose
After the first ten minutes I had the trail to myself.
Sure is nice to find beautiful natural places that aren’t overcrowded. I don’t want to sound jaded, but as a National Park Ranger I do see my fair share of crowds.
SkyrocketPainted Lady
I sauntered for 1 1/2 hours not making it the 2.8 miles up to Sunset or 3.6 miles to Sunrise points in Bryce Canyon National Park, or even to the base of the hoodoos. I’m thinking that last elevation gain could be up to 1500 feet.
After a little research, I’m thinking the Tropic Trail is one of the routes used by 1890s Mormon settlers to run cattle to the top of the Paunsaugunt Plateau during summer. Among the group of settlers, Ebenezer Bryce harvested timber in the lower canyons and is reported to have said, “It’s a hellofa a place to loose a cow.” Though I question his use of “hell”.
There are some private residences along the gravel drive to the Tropic Trailhead and they sure do have some magnificent views.
I worked up an appetite and not many restaurant choices in Tropic but did enjoy a late lunch sitting outside and chatting with locals at the IDK Barbeque with good ribs.
Then for the pretty drive back up onto the Pausaungunt Plateau and still no parking at Mossy Cave.
Just as I pulled into the park an artist friend from the North Rim days sent a text. They were at the lodge for lunch. I met up with her crew of grown son and daughter with three kids. We all walked to the rim and Sunrise Point where they headed down the Queen’s Garden trail.
I walked the rim trail south looking into the amphitheater below and trying once again to connect the dots. I couldn’t actually see the Tropic Trail where I’d been strolling earlier under the trees. Yet I did see the rocky outcrops and walls I’d been looking up at. Do you see them?
When finding out of the way and unpeopled places I am hesitant to share their exact location. Instead, I encourage you to make your own discoveries, or ask me privately.
