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Category: Places I’ve been

10 November 2020

On the road to November

trees hoodoos Red Canyon Dixie National Forest SR12 UtahLeft Bryce Canyon on October 25th, before it snowed, and am on the road again in the truck-camper.  The more than 150 mile circle around Bryce was headed into a cold front.  With nights everywhere predicted below freezing, or close, I could only think south.

fall trees SR89 South UtahAnd I only got 1 1/2 hours south to Fredonia, just across the border into Arizona.  A familiar drive along SR89 to Kanab where I didn’t even stop.  I felt tired, exhausted, and drained from the last week at work and closing up the 5th-wheel to move into the camper.

5th-wheel stored in Henrieville UtahShortly after arriving at the Wheel Inn RV Park I received a text that the 5er is winterized and in storage.  That’s a relief.

fall cottonwood trees field storm clouds Wheel Inn RV Park Fredonia ArizonaView from end of RV Park

Turned out a friend from the North Rim was already in this park so I pulled in next door.  Sure was good to catch up and talk to someone who understands an intense COVID summer season in a busy national park.  She usually waits tables in the Lodge but due to take-out dinning only her job ended up being the door counter, limiting ten people into the Lodge building for cabin and mule-ride check-in, and enforcing mask wearing.  Sounds like she was verbally abused way too many times.

window view Wheel Inn RV Park Fredonia Arizona

sunset clouds Wheel Inn RV Park Fredonia ArizonaKind of a noisy RV park, or maybe I’m just spoiled.  Also not used to paying $25/night even though I know that’s pretty cheap these days.  But really, basically a level gravel parking lot with utilities and a picnic table.  I initially paid for two nights and added a third to have electricity for heat as the lows dropped below freezing.

truck camper Lynda's house St George Utah

Red Cliffs Desert Reserve by Lynda's St George UtahI was ready to be on the road by Wednesday and drove another 1 1/2 hours west to St. George, Utah with a shopping stop along the way.  A friend invited me to park in her driveway.  I figured one night there but stayed two nights and we even got in a little walk at the nearby Red Cliffs Desert Reserve.  We plan to meet up in the southern desert somewhere this winter.

RVs on Snowbird Mesa Lake Road Overton NevadaFriday, I was on the road again continuing yet another 1 1/2 hours just south of Overton, Nevada to dispersed camping known as Snowbird Mesa or Poverty Flats.

RVs Snowbird Mesa Overton Nevada

RVs Snowbird Mesa Overton NevadaLots of snowbirds, more than I’m used to seeing the end of October, but by the look of the RVs and ‘toys’ mostly not suffering impoverishment.  Everybody works at keeping some distance.  Though my nearest neighbor living in a small pickup truck with a topper has rather loud conversations seemingly with himself, or maybe his dog.

canyon road mountains reverse sunset Earth Shadow Snowbird Mesa Nevada

camper van mountains moon rise Snowbird Mesa NevadaI planned to photograph the almost full moon that night and didn’t have to walk far from camp for an interesting foreground and composition.  Had I driven further off the popular path I might have eliminated other RVs.

mountains moon rise Snowbird Mesa Nevada

canyon road mountains moon rise Snowbird Mesa NevadaBut when I walked the next day realized I’d have to drive farther than I wanted to on rough gravel to really isolate and for just one more night in that location decided it wasn’t worth it.  Definitely isolated enough for no trick-or-treaters.  Good thing, as I didn’t buy any candy.

canyon mountains sunset clouds Snowbird Mesa Overton NevadaPretty sunset, but for full moon it was too late thus too dark for this too lazy photographer to drag out the tripod.

mountains sunrise clouds Snowbird Mesa NevadaI left Sunday morning relatively early for me with the intent of at least a four hour drive to Wickenburg, Arizona for my mail-in ballot.

road lake mountains clouds late light Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaInstead, in only 30 minutes, I saw a sign along the windy Lake Road drive for Stewarts Point and decided to check it out.  The two-mile drive to the lake goes past a bunch of older and many dilapidated small houses that make up the unincorporated community of Stewarts Point, inside the Lake Mead National Recreation Area.  These remaining not quite lakeshore properties are from the 1950s when the National Park Service issued long-term leases inside the recreation area yet quit renewing with a change in philosophy and policy during the 1970s.  According to this article, only 48 cabins remained as of 2013.  Most of what I saw didn’t look very used.

lake mountains clouds late light Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaI’d say less RVs than Snowbird Mesa or maybe just spread out more.  There are many options for sites with some more difficult to get to than others.  I’d recommend scouting before driving with a big rig.  My spot was mostly level and good enough for a night or two but I saw many others I’d prefer for next time.

sunset clouds Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

sunset clouds Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaI spent a delightful day taking short walks and reading in the shade.  Just enough clouds to put on a show for sunset.

desert lake mountains sunrise clouds reflection Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaI had every intention of leaving the next morning and was greeted with a worthy sunrise with clouds.

brush lake mountains clouds Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaAnd the clouds beckoned me to stay yet another day.  I am a nepholographer.

shore lake mountains clouds Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

lake mountains Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaLight and shadow danced across the land.  I finished reading another book.  Took short walks.  I tried to relax and be lazy.

desert sunset clouds crepuscular rays Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaMy mind just wouldn’t stop trying to figure out what and where to be this winter.  I need to figure out how to keep my phone and laptop charged by solar so I don’t NEED to stay in RV parks.  I don’t really understand all the solar stuff so want to talk to someone who does.  I’m willing to add another battery or panel, or both if that’s what it takes.  Probably go back to Solar Bill’s in Quartzsite, eventually.

desert mountains sunset clouds crepuscular rays Stewarts Point Overton Arm Lake Mead National Recreation Area NevadaI stayed for two nights within sight of the ever shrinking Lake Mead along the Overton Arm.  But I had no choice on Tuesday to get on the road to November 3rd so I could vote in Wickenburg, Maricopa county, where I’m registered.

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Arizona, Nevada, Places I've been, road trip, RV living, travel, United States, Utah road trip, travel, truckcamper 19 Comments
05 November 2020

The last days at Bryce Canyon National Park

lone Ponderosa Pine tree on rim hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWrapping it up for the last days at Bryce Canyon COVID19 summer season, eight days that felt like months.  The count down was on as I worked the last of each different schedule, some more preferred than others.  Plus packing up the 5th-wheel and moving into the truck-camper filled the last days at Bryce Canyon, before the snow fell, and I left.

The last opening schedule that gets me out of bed at the ridiculous time of 5:30am, to work by 7:30, and preparing to open the visitor center by 8am.  The staffed information area has been outside most of the season but with the temperature that morning hovering barely above freezing I opted to stay inside.  Not easy to talk to people through a mask and plexiglass.

view SSE from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahView south from Yovimpa Point

Started off a busy Saturday morning with constant questions and after a couple hours I was more than ready to move on to Rainbow Point, 18 forested miles away.  I was right to think there would be no parking by the time I got there around 11am so after one loop squeezing through an overcrowded small parking lot I drove back down the road about 1/4 mile to a wide spot, parked, then walked back up.  From Yovimpa Point I could see cars backed up and parking illegally along the road through both the 12:30 and 1:30 geology talks.  When I returned to my truck at 3pm cars were parked down to and all around me off the road and on vegetation.  WTF?

trees Farview Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe last of Autumn at the edge of the parking lot

Stopped at Farview overlook and was disappointed the Dawg House was out of hotdogs and fries.  Talked to a mom and daughter who were cool and the daughter asked about internships and how to become a Park Ranger.  We were interrupted by an old curmudgeon who asked when the Park Service planned to clean up the fire mess. What mess?  A lightning strike fire from 2009 sterilized much of the soil so regrowth is extremely slow, but that’s natural. Some folks don’t understand national parks.

Because of my late start time on Sunday I worked on some more camper cleaning.  Funny, even though I didn’t use it all summer it required a scrub and vacuum.  Might have been last winter’s dirt.  The fridge was disgusting with mold so received a thorough bleach wash.  The new memory foam finally relaxed and I made up the bed with clean sheets.  Still wasn’t ready to move in yet.

trees Pink Cliffs valley Navajo Mt sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahPre-program walk along the rim for the last reverse sunset

That night I presented my last evening program for the season.  Definitely felt like time to wrap things up with the nights feeling more than chilly after dark.

Sunday also ended the shuttle service in an exceedingly busy Bryce Canyon National Park.  People still poured in and would find no free ride after parking oversized vehicles in the overflow lot by the visitor center.  Overlook parking lots only accommodate a handful of large rigs.

I was happy not to open on Monday at 30° with no shuttle when both campgrounds became first-come-first-serve with no hosts on site.  Parking lots overflowing and yet more people kept rolling in.  This is usually a mellow time of year including retired and young people with no children.  Actually my favorite season.  But not so much this year.  Kids didn’t return to school and many families are traveling while homeschooling, some as newbie RVers.

hoodoos Sunrise Point lenticular clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahUnusual to see lenticular clouds

Tuesday is my first of three Fridays during the last days at Bryce Canyon.  After a long morning counting people in and out of the visitor center with never ending questions after lunch at the information booth I am more than ready to be done for the season.  Instead I lead a Rim Walk with some awesome visitors, and it does turn out to be the last of the season.  Count down is on, two work days left.  I’m getting grouchier.

All I can think about is moving, from one RV to the other and down in elevation where it’s warmer.  I’d hoped to leave Bryce eastward to Capital Reef and maybe beyond.  But long range weather forecast indicates cold nights and possible snow.  Even Lee’s Ferry, further south is showing nights below 40°.

spider web on lizard and VW in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThat rubber lizard doesn’t seem to scare off spiders

I spent my last two days off work cleaning, packing and semi-moving.  Because the 5th-wheel wouldn’t be moved until Sunday afternoon at the earliest I didn’t have to move completely out until I was ready to leave on Sunday morning.  I set Saturday night as my goal.

hoodoos late light clouds moon Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThere are limitations to moving food before self.  Plus sweep the slides off before pulling them in and disconnecting utilities.  I didn’t particularly want to move Sierra until the last minute so she didn’t have to go to work with me for those last two days.

On the real Friday, my Monday and second to last day of work for the season, I arrived to hear about the missing hiker at Bryce Canyon.  A 62 year-old solo man missing for two cold nights.  Family reports possible dementia.  Available staff from inside the park and out along with helicopters search the backcountry.  He is finally found alive late in the afternoon.  I hike alone frequently.  Could that be me?

trees hoodoos smoky haze Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSmoke haze eastward from the rim

I presented my last two hoodoo geology talks and in between met friends of a Flagstaff friend coincidentally at Sunset Point.  They were told to keep an eye out for Ranger Gaelyn and surprised when we crossed paths.

light & shadows hoodoo window Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI returned to work the visitor center information tables and was informed that a Bryce Canyon National Park employee had been confirmed with COVID19 and their entire division put on 14-day quarantine.  Great!  WTF!  Why wasn’t the entire park closed down?  Why were interpretive Rangers still out and about like nothing happened?  I felt like someone had shot my brains, they were ready to explode.  I had a bit of a melt-down and was rather useless the rest of the day.

wranglers horses dust Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy last day, call it a Friday, yet another busy Saturday.  Last of the stinky horse corral.  Last door counting which I certainly won’t miss.  Last plaza info and hours of repetitive answers.  Last scheduled Rim Walk that didn’t go and I was good with that.  I turned in stuff—keys, badges, and paperwork—and went home to move the last of food etc. and Sierra to sleep in the camper.  Still not certain about where we’d go from Bryce.

side mirror storm clouds SR 89 South UtahSunday morning I watched the weather report deteriorate to snow by afternoon at Bryce.  It would be pretty, but no thanks.  Swept and pulled in the slide-outs, disconnected the utilities, and with strong winds at 57° and dropping left the park at 10am saying goodbye to the last days at Bryce Canyon with a storm chasing me south to somewhere.

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Bryce Canyon National Park, Park Ranger, Places I've been, United States, Utah end of season, Park Ranger 11 Comments
27 October 2020

Autumn for Golden Aspen

fall aspen Duck Creek campground SR12 Dixie National Forest UtahAlthough the end of October is quickly approaching and fall is turning to winter, early October brought Autumn for golden Aspen and magical light to southern Utah.  Ever since working at the North Rim Grand Canyon starting in 2008 I’ve been enamored by the golden aspen leaves, and sometimes get reds and oranges too.

Sevier River valley SR89 South UtahSevier River valley

fall trees old buildings SR89 South UtahA few days after my Ranger guided moon walk it was time to go shopping again.  Why does this have to be done so frequently?  Yet the 1 1/2 hour drive proves quite scenic first south on SR89 then over the Markagunt Plateau westward to Cedar City.

fall Aspen trees SR14 West Utah

fall trees SR14 West Dixie National Forest UtahI’d hoped the golden Aspen were still brilliant and wasn’t disappointed.  Even the downward side of peak showed quite colorful in places.

forest fall color Aspen Mirror Lake SR14 Duck Creek Utahfall trees trail to Aspen Mirror Lake SR14 Dixie National Forest Duck Creek Utah

Followed a long ignored sign from SR14 to Aspen Mirror Lake and in less than a block drive on bumpy road found a parking lot with only a few other vehicles.  With several choices of direction and no trail indication on the Dixie National Forest sign I wasn’t the only one wondering which way to walk.  Several of the paths were obvious OHV trails and deep in dusty sand.

forest fall color Aspen Mirror Lake SR14 Duck Creek UtahMy second trail choice brought me through some sparse yet colorful Aspen forest and quickly to the lakeshore.

forest fall color Aspen Mirror Lake SR14 Duck Creek UtahSuch a lovely surprise to have water, and then still enough to live up to its name.

forest fall color Aspen Mirror Lake SR14 Duck Creek UtahFamilies hiked on the trail circling the small lake.

fall aspen Duck Creek lake SR12 Dixie National Forest UtahMade one other quick stop at the closed Duck Creek campground entrance.  I couldn’t lollygag as I still had to get to town for groceries and back before dark along the deer-alley drive.  (My favorite shot of this bunch.)

fall trees SR14 East Dixie National Forest UtahSurvived shopping with a special gift from a lady in front of me at the cashier who joked about adding my yummy looking ice cream to her order.  And then she paid for it without my knowing.  There is good in this world.

lava fall aspen trees near Navajo Lake SR14 Dixie National Forest UtahI made it home just before sunset even with another stop in the golden Aspen groves growing out of an ancient lava flow near Navajo Lake.

lava fall aspen trees near Navajo Lake SR14 Dixie National Forest Utahlava yellow aspen trees everygreens near Navajo Lake SR14 Dixie National Forest Utah

The color contrast was spectacular especially shooting mostly into the sun which put a warm glow on the land.

moon set trees from employee parking lot Bryce Canyon National Park UtahGood morning moon

Back to work early for opening on my Monday on Saturday then a favorite schedule to Yovimpa Point, 18 miles away from the crazy visitor center.  Found parking after only three loops and barely out of the truck when a visitor came to me and said someone was locked in a bathroom, drop-pit no less.  I remembered hearing this same story earlier in the week and figured it had been fixed.  Some visitors managed to get it open while I was calling on the radio for repairs and making a closed sign for the door.  Ah, starting the day for a Park Ranger.

hazy view South from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahHazy Yovimpa view

After three hours including two scheduled Grand Staircase geology talks and many mini geology and fire ecology talks at Yovimpa I drove to Farview Point to rove, and for a hot dog off the food wagon.

On the way back to headquarters I stopped at the Watchman connector trail parking because I never had before.  Located in a burn from 2009 the view is open to the east with a rapid drop off the edge of the plateau.  Just getting ready to leave and an older couple in a motorhome flip a U-turn into the tiny parking and he immediately jumps out.  I asked the driver to move a bit to get off the road before answering questions and turning them around while stopping traffic.  Does anybody know how to read a map, like the one every national park provides?

late light hoodoos valley Table Cliff Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

last light hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI presented my wildlife evening program the next day.  At the end a little boy wanted to talk about people going off trail and seeing/hearing a drone while hiking the Queen’s trail.  We talked, with his family, about helping Rangers by informing people to follow rules, but only if they feel comfortable with that.  There just aren’t enough Park Rangers.

costumed staff Tood appreciation party Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMonday I presented two hoodoo geology talks by Sunset Point and roved a bit along the rim.  That night was an appreciation party for the Interpretation staff’s supervisor.  Being some of us would be leaving before Halloween this was a costume party.  This entire team rocks it hard and survived the COVID19 summer season at Bryce Canyon while providing most outstanding, and frequently complemented, visitor services.

late light hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy Friday on Tuesday was non-stop busy starting with counting people in and out of the visitor center to maintain a 50 person capacity.  Then after lunch a couple hours constantly answering questions and orienting visitors to the park.  Seems many do no planning and may not even know what they came to see at Bryce.  I happily headed to the rim for a history walk and was joined by 26 wonderful visitors.  Then I roved along the rim for about an hour enjoying the light and shadows that are so divine this time of year.

last light hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next two days off were filled with chores.  Morning lows hoovering around freezing meant attaching heat tape and insulation to the new non-leaking water hose.  Propane tanks were filled and a couple blog posts written.  With only two weeks left of work I cleaned the truckcamper to ready it for packing and moving into.  BTW, I bought a Bissell pet-fur vacuum cleaner that really does the trick sucking up even Sierra’s long silky cat hair.

hoodoo walls Silent City clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack to work and hoodoo geology talks.  As I approached Sunset Point I saw a woman standing on the wrong side of the fence on a narrow ledge followed by a young boy standing next to a parent throwing rocks over the edge just above a trail.  When I ask them to desist I get a look like deer caught in headlights.  They are oblivious yet do comply.  Park Rangers shouldn’t have to discipline visitors.

rocks from Navajo trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day before my Rim Walk I roved at the Navajo Loop trailhead, always an interesting activity answering numerous questions and trying to inform people about trail recommendations and difficulty.  I watched as two 20-something muscle-bound jug-head looking guys came off the trail red-faced and sweating while each carried a huge and obviously heavy boulder.  In shock, the only thing I thought to say was how they couldn’t remove those rocks from the park so they left them behind a fence a bit up the trail.  I actually went back the next day and there they sat.  What was the point other than a stupid challenge?  They could be historic CCC trail-wall building material.

late light reverse sunset Pink Cliffs valley Table Cliffs Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Mule Deer forest Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSunday night, before the evening program, I shot along the rim with golden light and as I walked through the forest returning to the outdoor seating watched several mule deer grazing nearby.

view South from Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahIn the early morning as I left home to open the visitor center I startled two elk along the road, and they startled me.  Later that day I watched a pair of Peregrine Falcons soar from Yovimpa Point.  Park Rangers love living in the wild.

wrangler on horses Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe possible down-side to living remote is the drive to town, except when you make it a girls’ day.  We left early and saw the wranglers rise out.

fall colors trees SR14 West UtahTwo weeks from my last trip over the pass and many of the golden Aspen leaves have tarnished to bronze, and turned brown to fall down.  Yet patches of color still highlight on the hillsides.

light & shadows hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next two days off included more cleaning, organizing, and getting ready to move.  Many things can’t be moved until the last minute, but I like to be as ready as I can.  Then back to work for one more week when it’s the last opening, closing, and each program.  Feels like wash, rinse, and repeat, but not for much longer.

Time to order a 2021 Geogypsy calendar, $25 includes shipping in the USA.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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