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Category: Places I’ve been

21 July 2021

Monsoon rains visit the Southwest

It started a little over a week ago at Bryce Canyon with a tease, some dark clouds and just a few drops but within a few days monsoon rains began to fall and it almost felt like the right pattern, rain between 11am and 11pm coming and going often with a little sunshine in between.  I could almost feel my dry skin begin to plump.  Of course anything over 30% humidity feels sticky in the Southwest.  Visitors from the East still suffer from dry cracking lips as they relish the lack of humidity at 80-90°.  It’s a dry heat you know.

hoodoos valley Aquarius Plateau haze clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter a couple rather lazy days off I returned to work on an extremely quiet Saturday to an hour at the information desk then presented the 11 am Hoodoo geology talk by Sunset Point overlook.  After lunch I roved the rim for about three hours chasing patches of shade with temps in the low 90s.  Came home beat and exhausted so took a two hour nap, woke at ten and went right back to bed sleeping round the clock.  Stomach was upset so didn’t even eat dinner.

trees last light Pink Cliffs Aquarius Plateau sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSunset

Sunday I didn’t start work until 12:15 and breakfast was comfort food, cinnamon toast and bacon.

pointing to Marble View on mapKnowing I worked only two more days followed by four days off I started to formulate a plan to camp on the Kaibab Plateau in the national forest north of the North Rim Grand Canyon.  The Kaibab National Forest had been closed to recreation for a couple weeks then monsoon rains began and it reopened, but still no campfires.  That’s fine by me.  Destination, Marble View, only 14 miles from pavement on usually decent gravel road, a favorite place to camp, and hopefully watch monsoon rains.  Sent a message to a friend who lives in the triple-digit heat of St. George inviting her to join me and received an immediate YES.  I felt my mood lighten as I made it through the day with two shifts at the information desk and my 9pm evening program about Wildlife at Bryce, a rather large group with several precocious children asking endless questions.  Went home a good kind of tired.

hoodoos haze Bryce Canyon National Park UtahCompare to first shot

The next day after two hours at the information desk followed by a bit of time checking deleting emails, I presented the 2pm Hoodoo geology talk and roved 2 1/2 hours along the rim at 88° mostly talking about the smoky haze, so thick could barely see the Aquarius Plateau 14 miles east.  Hard to say where from with so many fires burning in the west.  I was fried and left two hours early, sick leave.  (Remember, I’m burning up hours so any opportunity without messing up anybody’s schedule I take sick leave.)  Clouds all day teased monsoon rains that didn’t fall until early evening and then only briefly.  It was an early to bed night for an early next day.

new fence Yovimpa Point trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNew fence because cement isn’t enough to keep people on the trail to Yovimpa Point

And that was Tuesday, my one day early Friday, before a four-day weekend away.  I opened the visitor center wondering if 70% chance of monsoon rains would stop my day at Yovimpa Point, a favorite place to be.  But the rain held off with only a handful of drops and I wore a light jacket until well after noon at the southern end of the plateau and 9100 feet.  Lots of mini geology and fire ecology talks. The smoky haze obscured Navajo Mountain 90 miles to the southeast and almost erased the North Kaibab 100 miles south where I hoped it wouldn’t be smoky the next day.  I took off about an hour early to pack the camper and later a lovely light rain fell, perfect and pleasing with faint thunder in the distance.

side mirror view Lynda SR67 South Kaibab National Forest ArizonaFinally, Wednesday morning I finished the last minute packing and left about 9:30.  An hour and a half later I was buying grocery treats in Kanab and met several friends for lunch at my favorite Escobars Mexican Restaurant.  Then Lynda and I caravanned up onto the Kaibab with an important stop at Jacob Lake Inn for cookies.  One more stop on the way to camp at the North Rim Country Store where I hoped to see Grand Canyon friend Robert who now works there but it was his afternoon off.

trees clouds FR610 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaForest Road 610

trees clouds FR219 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaForest Road 219

Marble View FR219 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaTo Marble View

Finally, after an hour drive on the rather rough gravel we pulled into Marble View about 4pm.  Hadn’t seen another vehicle on the drive and had the place to ourselves.  Yippee!!

trees valley storm clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest Arizona

the point trees valley sunrays clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThen about 30 minutes later as we’d just relaxed into our chairs with a glass of wine to watch the stormy sky a jeep pulled in.  Turned out to be friends from the North Rim who knew I’d be camped there.

trees valley rain storm clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest Arizona

trees storm clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaWe chatted and wandered and looked for fossils before the monsoon rains chased everyone inside our respective vehicles.

trees valley storm clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest Arizona

trees clouds crepuscular rays Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThe sky put on quite a show requiring quite a few ins and outs of the camper between rain drops.  Yet most of the monsoon rains fell below our high camp sending flood waters down stream.  Sadly a life was lost in flash flood from a side canyon along the Colorado River.

tree rainbow patch Marble View Kaibab National Forest Arizona

trees rainbow colors Marble View Kaibab National Forest Arizona

trees rainbow colors Marble View Kaibab National Forest Arizona

11d DSL_7044lewfbr trees rainbow colors Marble View Kaibab NF AZ fb gfb nwp as g-2Light streamed through breaks in the clouds and brought unusual patches of rainbows.

trees sunrays inversion clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest Arizona

trees inversion clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest Arizona

trees valley Vermilion Cliffs inversion clouds anticrepuscular rays Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaThe temperature dropped and so did the clouds causing inversion in Marble Canyon.

 trees light shadow Marble Canyon Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaLight in Marble Canyon where the Colorado River flows

trees sunset clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaRained on and off most of the night and into morning then after noon stopped and the big fluffy clouds made for delightful shadow play across the land plus a semi-colorful sunset.

trees Marble Canyon Echo Cliffs Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaLynda had to leave Friday and I watched more storms come and go with lots of cloud play.  Two cars came out but didn’t stay.  A Forest Service guy stopped and told me about the FR22 and 462 wash out, way to the west and low down like on the way to Snake Gulch.  No worries where I was except for a couple puddles on the Forest Road (FR) back to pavement.

Raven Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaMost of my company included Ravens hopping around eating insects and they are fun to watch as they waddle when they walk.

trees Marble Canyon Echo Cliffs clouds Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaRained lightly several times during the day with intermittent sun patches.

morning light trees House Rock Valley Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaI had to leave Saturday but didn’t rush.  The sky was back to a smoky haze over the House Rock Valley below to the east.  I really thought all the rain would have cleared the air.  I love this summer view as much as the Sonoran Desert in winter.

lavendar Fleabane flowers FR219 Kaibab National Forest Arizona

white daisy flowers FR610 Kaibab National Forest Arizona

tree reflection FR219 Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Aspen trunks reflection FR219 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaTook over an hour to drive the 14 miles of gravel because I kept stopping to take photos of the flowers and puddle reflections.

2006 Warm Fire view E Vermilion Cliffs clouds SR67 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaVermilion Cliffs from SR67 Kaibab National Forest

Then another stop at the North Rim Country Store to visit with Robert and another stop at Jacob Lake Inn for cookie orders from Bryce.  Lunch and a few more groceries in Kanab and finally home six hours later to unpack.

A fantastic four-day vacation where Marble View never disappoints, especially during monsoon rains.

 

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Arizona, Bryce Canyon National Park, Kaibab National Forest, Marble View, Places I've been, United States, Utah camping, monsoon, rain, rainbows 34 Comments
13 July 2021

Mid July marks half the summer season at Bryce Canyon

Though it feels like summer has barely begun, especially at 8000 feet, mid July marks half the summer season at Bryce Canyon.  Does it seem like I’m counting the days?  Maybe so.  I’m ready for a vacation.

cliffs clouds SR20 East UtahSR20 east Utah

Not like I don’t get days off, but they seem mundanely filled with chores like a long drive for shopping, and laundry at least a little closer to home.  Last week on a day off I avoided the dignitary visit of the second gentleman, Doug Emhoff.  Fellow park staff reported all went smoothly as he and the entourage were taken to the small out of the way Paria View overlook easily blocked to the public.  He is presumably visiting many national parks and meeting with staff.  Instead, I ended up in the holiday weekend busy town of Cedar City.  What was I thinking?

last light Aquarius Plateau sunset clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI returned to work on Independence Day wondering if we’d be extra busy or not.  Remote national parks are often less busy on 4th of July because of the fireworks’ restrictions.  Didn’t feel any busier than any other day of the week.  Not even much of a noticeable difference between weekends and weekdays this busy summer.  I started at noon and due to nearby lightning worked information inside the visitor center.  Later, after closing the visitor center at 8pm scattered clouds made roving near Sunset Point for sunset a nice way to end the day.  I did hear a few boomers from my home under the Pines that night but am too far from Bryce Canyon City for their show.

After the next day’s 11am Hoodoo geology talk I engaged with a small group of visitors in conversation that went from geology, to cultural history, to archeology and anthropology, and genetics.  I love when this happens.  An approaching storm sent us different directions, me for lunch in the camper.  And that’s where I weathered the storm that came with a vengeance of wind and hard rain.  But not for more than 30 minutes.  I might have taken a nap.

trees sunrise clouds from RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSunrise view from RV door

The next day started hard and felt long.  I’m loosing another friend to cancer.  I’ve known Eddie since high school over 50 years.  Not long ago he was diagnosed Stage 4 and resigned himself to the last journey.  Yet he recently came around and decided not to lie in bed and wait for the end.  Instead he’s getting his RV home ready to roll and travel with family chauffeurs.  He called that morning to share the latest news.  Good news.  And I hope to cross his trail somewhere along the way.  The work day started with opening the visitor center and covering the information desk for an hour.  Then I did a practice run of a revised program from my Oregon Caves days called “I Dig Rocks” to learn how easy it is to identify rocks.  I was thinking of doing this program Saturday during the weekend’s GeologyFest, an annual event that happens at about half the summer season.  But at ten minutes the program is too long for today’s short attention span.  Glad I tried it out first.  After lunch I returned to the information desk for several hours and went home tired and thankful the next day was my Friday, even if it was an early start.

Pink Cliffs valley trees Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter opening and working two hours at the information desk it was time to drive to Yovimpa Point, the southern end of Bryce’s Paunsaugunt Plateau, my happy place.  Away from the hubbub and non-stop busy around the visitor center.  Grand Staircase geology talks are scheduled for 12:30 and 1:30, and sometimes they actually happen at those times.  I do short 10-15 minute versions whenever visitors show interest and lost count that day of how many times.  I talked as much if not more about fire ecology as visitors want to know about the fire evidence they see along the drive and Bristlecone Loop trail.  Two different stories.  A little boy maybe nine-years old asked why we fight fire with fire and not water.  I try to explain how a backburn works in this dry environment when water is readily handy and he quickly figures it out.  Seeing the lightbulb go off over his head is what makes my job so great.  A young (25) man hangs out conversing for over an hour in between my answering visitor questions.  In fact I get back late because we are engaged in good conversation for almost an hour in the parking lot.

Sierra cat RV bed Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAnd then two days off.  Felt good not to have to go anywhere and feel a little lazy.  Finished a post, labeled a whole lot of photos, did a minimal amount of housework, and cleaned the camper fridge.  The last, because I’m planning a road trip for my next days off.  It’s about time after half the summer season.  And so after four days work it’s four days off and I’m going to #PlanLikeAParkRanger, because I am, and head to…

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06 July 2021

And yet another week of Rangering at Bryce Canyon

It’s hard to believe you’re not all tired of reading about my daily grind of Rangering at Bryce Canyon and thinking out loud about the future.  Once I started working on ideas I’ve become calmer about retirement thoughts making work flow better also.  Thanks for listening, sharing, and making suggestions.

Limber Pine roots exposed on rim hoodoos clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLimber Pine roots along the rim exposed by erosion at about one foot every 50 years isn’t even geology

After two days off I returned to work a busy Saturday with a couple hours at the information desk.  Then after the 11am Hoodoo geology talk and some lunch I hung out near Sunrise Point for a couple hours making contacts with over 150 people.  Most want to know about the Queen’s Garden Trail starting down into the hoodoos from that point.  Some seem more prepared than others.  A dog came off the trail with no leash and when I asked if there was a person with the dog I was barely acknowledged and then totally ignored when I informed the person of leash rules and being on a no dog trail.  I called Law Enforcement but nothing came of it.  Seems there always has to be one jerk.  So that’s what comes of Rangering at Bryce Canyon.

Late start is common on Sunday’s schedule as I present the 9pm evening program every other week.  That schedule also includes two two-hour stints at the information desk.  I would so much rather be doing programs or roving somewhere in the park.  The repetitive questions get old.  “I just got here, what shall I do?”  Sometimes I look at them with a smile—thank goodness that can be seen again—and respond, “What did you come here to do?”  Tends to catch them off guard.  So I quickly add, “how long will you be here, do you want to hike or drive?”  Once I’ve oriented them to the map, in the newspaper they were given upon entering the park, I let them make decisions.  I am amazed how many visitors actually read my name tag and thank me by name.  A marvelous payoff for Rangering at Bryce Canyon.  Had several interactive children at my evening program about wildlife, both a blessing and a curse when staying on a schedule.

Next day after desk time I presented the 2pm Hoodoo geology talk then roved around Sunset Point for a couple hours.  Day ended with picking up liter around the perimeter of the overflow parking lot.  Way too many cigarette butts (I can now say that after four years cig free), hair ties, disposable water bottle caps, masks, and much micro-trash from food wrappers and merchandise packaging.  Went home tired and glad for the next day off from Rangering at Bryce Canyon.

hoodoos valley canyons clouds Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA full project day seemed best used as a mental health day preparing for company.  I felt guilty in the morning sitting in front of a heater while the Pacific Northwest temperatures soared higher than the desert Southwest.  How crazy is that?  Climate change?  Finally the park went into Stage 2 fire ban restrictions:  NO campfires, NO fireworks, NO smoking except in vehicle.  I’m betting the adjacent Bryce Canyon City still plans a fireworks display.  All morning and early afternoon the sky was dark and rumbling yet dropped very little rain.  Then just as my friends arrived it started to rain harder.  They brought it with from St George.  I was grateful for that and more.  We sat inside chatting for a bit then the rain stopped and we enjoyed a picnic dinner they brought along before going to the rim for a possible light show.  Ended up at Paria View where I rarely go because it’s a very tiny parking lot.  I now have a whole new respect for this overlook and may return for the next full moon rise.

tree shadows Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

tree shadow Pink Cliff Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWorked Wednesday as my Friday opening the visitor center.  We didn’t get huge amounts of rain at Bryce but below in Zion National Park flooding occurred that trapped people for a few hours and brought a lot of water and mud downhill.  The park closed Thursday afternoon and was already partly opened by Friday morning.  Many visitors either arrive at Bryce from, or are going next to, Zion so they had concerns.  Sadly, we didn’t have any better information than everybody could get on Zion’s webpage and Facebook page.

BRCA BARK Ranger program Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSometimes updates at my own park are hard enough to keep track of.  Like, we now have a B.A.R.K. Ranger program: Bag waste/poop, Always on a leash, Respect wildlife, Know where you can go.  Supposedly we’ll have some card and sealed dog treat to give to dog owners plus merchandise they can purchase.  Oh boy, one more thing to do.  Like we aren’t busy enough Rangering at Bryce Canyon.  2018 set the record at 2.6 million visitors and we are currently up 18% from that without international visitors.

Whiteman trailhead Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI ran away for an afternoon at Yovimpa Point, my happy place at the end of the scenic road, where it’s not so busy yet still chatted with over 100 people.  No rain fell while I watched clouds build to the north.  I did encounter a few drops on the way home and even stopped at Whiteman trailhead for a look at the weather to the east.

trees cliff SR20 West UtahThis followed by three days off from Rangering at Bryce Canyon.  I left the park early on Friday to avoid the issues of the second gentleman, Doug Emhoff, husband of Vice President Kamala Harris, visiting the park.  I drove to Panguitch for breakfast and took SR20 west to I15 for a different, faster, yet pretty route to shop in Cedar City and returned the same way.

Pink Clliffs Navajo Mt clouds Paria View Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI do hope monsoon visits the Southwest and brings enough rain to discourage the starting of lightning caused fires.  That would be wonderful for the drought stricken land.  Enjoyed a bit more rain on my days off.

Thursday was a day to remember the Yarnell Hill Fire eight years ago when 19 firefighters lost their lives and over 100 people in Yarnell lost their homes.

Sort of puts things in perspective.  Like why am I whining about my future retirement.  I recently realized retirement plans don’t have to be made forever.  And maybe wishes can come true when friends come through.  Time to move on and make the most of Rangering at Bryce Canyon, as it might be my last season.

Spiderman walking to WalMart Cedar City UtahLook who shops at Wallys.  Maybe shopping at the Fireworks stands in the parking lot.  (Post scheduled before the 4th of July so I am praying no fires are started because of careless fireworks, or Spiderman might have to come to the rescue.)

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Bryce Canyon National Park, Park Ranger, Places I've been, Uncategorized, United States, Utah seasonal Park Ranger 25 Comments
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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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