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Category: Places I’ve been

11 August 2021

Work, company, and exploring the Grand Staircase

desert varnish sandstone walls Burr Trail Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahMore rain followed by increased temperatures and sunshine with a variety of smoke diminished views over the Grand Staircase geology and national monument.

July ended still supporting monsoon storms at Bryce Canyon.  Rained hard on my day off spent at home including hail, lightning, and thunder.  Sierra stays close by when it’s booming.  Wonder if the storm spooked the horse that galloped past followed by a cowboy-wrangler on horseback that herded it back to the corral below where I live.  Puddles in the road grew larger.

Golden Eagle rain from RV window Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMotion caught my eye and a Golden Eagle stood soaked in a puddle.  It was there for measurable minutes while I took terrible photos through a rain streaked window.  Only the second time I’ve positively identified a Golden at Bryce.  Lightning crashed less than a mile away and the RV shook.  Made me glad to be grounded with rubber tires.  The storm cell hung overhead for quite a while.

Back to work Sunday with a 10am start, no programs, and way too many hours at the visitor center.  By CDC rules we are back to requiring masks worn inside the building, staff and visitors, and limited entry to 80 people.  A most boring job, other than people watching, sitting at the door with a counter app on the ipad.  Gets especially difficult with lightning filled storms intermittently causing Rangers to move in and out of the building.

Sierra cat looking for Meowie Jane in RV Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Meowie Jane catnip replacementRanger R, a botanist who has a love of galls, gave me a Japanese gall called Meowie Jane, Actinidia polygama, Silvervine, a catnip replacement and asked for a quote how Sierra reacted to it.  I don’t feed her catnip very often and she mostly ignores toys filled with it.  However, when I held the gall towards her she quickly responded with a sniff.  When I put it on the floor she rubbed all over it then started batting it around like a soccer ball.  Scored three goals under furniture and as goalie I dutifully retrieved them.  Hope we don’t get in trouble and wonder if Meowie Jane is legal in Utah, or the USA. 😉

Ranger Gaelyn recommended and endorsed book Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next morning started at the information desk for an hour then off to present the 11am hoodoo geology talk.  Because I had to cover an hour as door counter at 2pm I roved after the presentation and before lunch, which is basically hanging out at Sunset Point and answering questions.  Day ended with two hours back at the information desk.  Way too much time at the desk, IMHO.

White & Pink members Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahHowever, I looked forward to the next two days going to Rainbow Point and my happy place with the huge view from Yovimpa Point.  Also meant getting up early to open the visitor center and staff the door for two hours.  Morning coffee at 5:30am requires a heater by my side and a warm lap cat.  Temperatures range from low 50s to low 80s throughout the day at 8000-9100 feet in elevation.

smoky view SE Pink Cliffs & beyond Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahYovimpa rises just over 9100 feet at the southern tip of the Paunsaugunt Plateau.  The 100 mile view makes me feel on a mountain summit but I let a vehicle do the climb.  Sadly a smoky haze from hard to say where diminished the view to about half.  Yet could still see the typical four out of five cliff steps of the geologic Grand Staircase, the story I share of what can be seen.

hoodoos Pink Cliffs view South Black Birch overlook Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

trees White & Pink Members Black Birch overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahOn the return drive I stopped at a couple overlooks.  Not sure I’d ever had space to park at Black Birch overlook.  Every place offers a different view.

Peregrine Falcon bird Natural Bridge overlook Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Peregrine Falcon bird Natural Bridge overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAt Natural Bridge, where many stop yet don’t stay long, I saw a Peregrine Falcon and took some lousy yet identifiable photos.

Ranger Gaelyn Yovimpa Pointt Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by TimSame schedule on Wednesday—my Friday—and between home and work my NPS keys disappeared off my pant loop.  I retraced my steps several times and looked between the seats.  Maybe my eyes just aren’t too open at that early hour.  After opening and two hours of door counting I took off to Yovimpa with hotdog lunch on the way. Was very quiet out there, and once again smoky with diminished view.  Ranger T came out for a while on project time.

empty view truckcamper Natural Bridge overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStopped at Natural Bridge and had the entire place to myself, briefly.

Torch hoodoo Natural Bridge overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSo I enjoyed the view of what I call the torch hoodoo.  I was able to leave a little early knowing with Lynda’s short visit she’d probably beat me home.  That’s what happened and was of course just fine especially as she brought home-made lasagna for dinner.  I searched again for the missing keys and found them almost gone between the truck seats.

NE to SE view from Head of the Rocks SR12 Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahMy first day off I don’t like to be rushed yet we did leave the park before noon.  With Lynda as my driver and guide we explored east on SR12 past where I’d been before.  Such a treat being behind the camera instead of the wheel.  OK, so I do shoot while driving but not with the big camera.  Distant views were obscured by the smoky haze that settled on the horizon.  Temperatures rose into the 90s so our stops where short yet sweet.

  Calf Creek sandstone cliffs SR12 Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahCalf Creek Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

Wow, was my word of the day as we traveled across this sandstone landscape of benches and canyons where sometimes flowing water created brilliant green strips through the mostly soft white and warm pillows of rock.

  Deer Creek trees cliffs Burr Trail Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahDeer Creek Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

trees Escalante River cliffs Burr Trail Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahEscalante River Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument

At Boulder we turned onto the Burr Trail and continued through the dramatic and contrasting landscape of the Grand Staircase National Monument.

Lynda & Bailey Monks Alcove Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument Utah

trees cliffs Monks Alcove Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument Utah

Monks Alcove Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahOne place cool enough to walk with Bailey, a small slot canyon.  Waited only briefly for a mom and lots of noisy kids to leave and allow their echo to disappear as we soaked up the rock cooled and shaded air.

Hell's Backbone Grill & Farm Boulder UtahOur return route was via the famous Hell’s Backbone Grill and Farm in Boulder.  More Wow!

Orchard Zinger Hell's Backbone Grill & Farm Boulder UtahWe both started out with an Orchard Zinger cocktail that went down sweet with a zing.  Dinner was served on the patio, with Bailey in his bed just over the low rail.

Jenchilladas Hell's Backbone Grill & Farm Boulder UtahLemony Cluck Backbone Bar & Grill Boulder Utah

Lynda ordered her favorite Jenchilladas and I the Lemony Cluck.  Hard to describe how delicious.

Apricot Smash recipe from Hell's Backbone Grill and Farm Boulder UtahTheir apricot harvest is almost over so I bought a bottle of Apricot Smash.  I will most certainly return to this area in the fall when cooler and eat here again.

hoodoos valley smoke Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSecond day off was boring catchup and chores then back to work Saturday starting with two hours as the door counter again followed by the 11am hoodoo talk.  I realized it was smoky when I left the building but was still taken back by the diminished view and hazy amphitheater full off hoodoos.  The Aquarius Plateau only 14 miles east was totally obscured along with the valley below.

Great Basin Rattlesnake Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter the talk I once again roved in the area and good thing as a couple came to tell me the lady had sat on a tree root up the trail and a rattlesnake struck her boot.  Somehow I didn’t hear her scream but she was fine.  I called it in and they lead us to the tree.  Sure enough, a Great Basin Rattlesnake still hanging around.  Ranger R got the snake catching kit and quickly caught, bucketed, and relocated it.

Sunday was my late day and began at noon, yes once again as the door counter.  At our current visitation it’s not hard to maintain 80 people in the building with some being reminded to mask up, and we have masks to give away.  But when two tour buses traveling together arrived a little chaos ensued.  Especially when one of their guides asked public to leave the building so the group could all get in at once and overflow the theater with a current 25 seat capacity.  Once the dust settled and they were all outside again I asked to speak to the person in charge and told her they needed to plan better while traveling during a pandemic and suggested they break the group up, especially if going into federal buildings.  She apologized and told me they’d called ahead, sorry no record of that or we would have more people to deal with this.  I can only hope the same didn’t occur at their next stop.  After dinner I covered the information desk a couple hours then helped closed the visitor center.  When I arrived at 8:25pm to set up for my 9pm slide presentation about Wildlife there were already people sitting in the outdoor amphitheater.  Had a crowd of about 50 including two obnoxious, not precocious, kids that I nipped in the bud after three interrupting comments about volcanoes.  I have to keep on time, and subject.

light on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I started 10am at the information desk and two hours later was informed our tap water is possibly contaminated, all public water access is closed, we are on a “boil tap water” order.  Turns out one of three wells tested positive for E coli before it hit the chlorination process.  That well was closed and the water being retested.  I presented the 2pm hoodoo talk and roved until 5:30 when I called it a day.

Peregrine Falcon Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTuesday was my Friday and back out to Yovimpa Point after two hours of door counting.  Most of the smoky haze was gone but clouds danced overhead with an increasing chance of rain through the afternoon.  I hung out from 11:30-3 talking to many visitors about the Grand Staircase geology and national monument seen below this awe inspiring view.  Then it started to sprinkle and as I was walking away I saw a Peregrine Falcon and snapped a few lousy shots.

clouds Natural Bridge Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe rain didn’t last long so I stopped at Natural Bridge to rove about an hour watching the clouds continue to build.

Cottonwood tree Monks Alcove Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument UtahEnd of work week with ten days off.  How did I manage that?  Well the first is a paid project day I took off for mental health.  Then it’s my three day weekend.  I have the first four days of next week off to drive to St George and get help taking the camper off the truck for future repairs when the temperatures drop there.  Then I’m back to two normal days off.  I could get used to this.

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03 August 2021

Monstrous Monsoon rains bring flooding to southern Utah

Ground Squirrel at fence Sunrise Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahOK, enough rain already!  In the last two weeks during monstrous monsoon rains Bryce Canyon received 3 inches.  And Cedar City got two inches in an hour while I shopped there last week.  I love the rain—a special gift in an arid place—and embrace monsoon, but this is ridiculous.  The hard ground—compare to a dried out sponge—takes a while to soak and soften which can cause flash flooding.  But then once saturated can soak no more and causes more flash flooding.

Last week I was praising the healing rain and now I pray for just a little less intensity.  Not like I worry about melting, I have the right gear, but I don’t want to be along the rim when lightning roars.  After Saturday’s 11am Hoodoo geology talk I was eating lunch in my truckcamper with another monstrous monsoon storm brewing and wondering about roving along the rim when a radio call from my boss said lightning was nearby and I was called back to the building.  I get bored real quick in the office, so after cleaning up in the library—my collateral duty as librarian—I went into the visitor center and stood by the topo map answering questions for four hours.

flood damage Queens Garden Trl Bryce Canyon National Park Utah NPS photoflood damage Wall St Navajo Lp Trl Bryce Canyon National Park Utah NPS photoflood damage Wall St Navajo Lp Trl Bryce Canyon National Park Utah NPS photo

National Park Service photos of trail damage Queen’s Garden and Navajo Loop trails

Also heard some stories from visitors hiking in the hoodoos when flash flooding occurred during the monstrous monsoon rains.  Rangers went out to assist people off the trails.  Everyone was fine, though wet and muddy.  Then all trails below the rim were closed.  This kind of flooding is a rather unusual occurrence at Bryce.  My first experience seeing water flow in any dry wash.  But these rains have come hard and fierce.

repairs Two Bridges side Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

repairs Two Bridges side Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahRepairs Navajo Loop trail

Late start on Sunday and still struggling to get online after about 9/10am.  Then add a Windows update that changes my settings, again.  Was hoping for an update on trail closures before getting to work at noon.  Instead I find out after a couple hours at the information desk I’ll be roving at the Navajo Loop trailhead to keep people off the closed trail and answer questions.  “When will it open?”  “Don’t know yet, still being assessed for damage and safety.”

hoodoos Sinking Ship valley light Aquarius Plateau clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI found it eerily quiet and was thinking the rim trails and Rainbow Point must be packed.  Left for dinner at 4:30 then back to the desk from 6-8pm and when I returned the Navajo Loop trail had reopened under incomplete repairs.  That didn’t make sense.  With the possibility of more rain, and lightning, I had to make the call by 8:30pm for my 9pm outdoor evening program.  The show went on with a small group including my supervisor for observation because of mid-season evaluation.  No big deal.  And no rain.

SR20 Weat Utah

SR20 West Utah

jct SR20 West & I15 Utah

thunder clouds Parowan Valley I15 South UtahI traded another Ranger my Wednesday project day for Monday and then took that day off.  Sweet, another nine hours of sick leave used up and only two more work days to the week.  Nice drive on SR20 west under partly cloudy sky up onto a plateau, through meadows, and back down into the valley onto I15 south to Cedar City.

Storm clouds WalMart Cedar City UtahMy plan was park in the outer edges of WalMart for a short walk to lunch at the Asian Bistro, followed by some shopping, and another walk next door to the Dessert Industries Thrift Store.  Then possibly a couple other store stops.

flooded parking lot WalMart Cedar City Utah

wet legs from wading in flooded parking lot WalMart Cedar City UtahI could hear the rain so hard on the Wally’s roof I thought it might cave in.  There were wet places on the floor and people seemed to be moving slower than usual to put off going outside in the monstrous monsoon downpour, myself included.  Once it stopped raining I checked out and worked through the crowd by the door to get outside.  OMG!  A dip in the drive near the store resembled a ruddy raging river.  The only way to get to my rig was through, so I pushed the cart through almost knee-deep chilly water.  Thank goodness for dry pants and shoes onboard.  After loading groceries, I stayed put in the camper about 1 1/2 hours to wait for the water to subside.  It had pretty much quit raining.  Glad I waited as the debris along the edge of the interstate indicated a lot of water had sheeted across.

Hurricane Cliffs storm clouds Parowan Valley I15 North UtahI15 North

valley mountains clouds SR20 East UtahSR20 East

Only sprinkled on the way to Panguitch where I stopped for dinner at the Big Fish.  Then barely a sprinkle once home to unpack.  And realize I’d left my credit card at the restaurant.  I have never done that before.

people on Two bridges Navajo Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahHikers on Two-Bridges side of Navajo Loop Trail

Tuesday morning I returned to work with the first hour at the information desk and discovered the Queen’s Garden trail with loop into Navajo trail was opened after repairs.  Work was still being done on the Peek-a-boo trail.  I figured the trails were either a little muddy if wet or lumpy if dry.  Hiking boots might start as size sevens and return size tens.

hoodoos Bryce Point clouds from rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI presented the 11am Hoodoo geology talk, hid in my camper for lunch, and returned to rove several hours near Sunrise Point.  While finishing the day at the information desk I’m told about the updated CDC advisory for mandatory mask wearing in federal buildings beginning the next day that includes all employees and visitors.

So that day, Wednesday on my Friday, starts with opening the visitor center and staffing two hours outside the door to limit entry to 80 visitors and provide masks as needed.  Back to this again.  Garfield county, Utah is seeing increases in COVID with the new Delta strain.

birds on branch Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI am more than happy to drive the 18 miles to the end of the scenic road and spend the afternoon outside at Yovimpa Point.  It was my short day, eight hours instead of nine, made a little shorter by a storm rolling in around 3pm with only sprinkles and no monstrous monsoon rain.

snowploy Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahWhat I didn’t expect to see in the parking lot was the snowplow.  It was actually clearing small debris off the side of the road.

trees pink cliffs Red Canyon Dixie National Forest SR12 West UtahRed Canyon SR12 W Dixie National Forest

Once home, made a quick clothes change and headed to Panguitch to meet work friends for dinner at the Big Fish and retrieve my credit card.

doe & fawn Mule Deer Bryce Canyon National Park UtahExcept for chores, I looked forward to three lazy days off work with intermittent rain and wildlife entertainment.  I return to work the first of August to who knows what for sure.  Prediction for more showers and thunderstorms in the afternoon so might see more monstrous monsoon rains.

_______________________________________________________________________

BTW, if you have a RV you want to sell, now is the time.  Seriously, used RVs are frequently listing for more than you might have paid.  My 25 year-old truckcamper is valued at $2000 more than I paid for it seven years ago.  Mine isn’t for sale.  Don’t expect this to last.  Many of the hordes of new RVers may soon discover it’s not for them.  Just sayin’.

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27 July 2021

Healing rain and back to work with a better attitude

trees truckcamper FR219 Kaibab National Forest ArizonaAlthough it wasn’t easy to leave my happy place on the Kaibab, I left with a better attitude, refreshed after four days of nature’s healing rain, plus positive insight from friends.  With that I returned to Bryce Canyon and felt rewarded by working for special people who visit this beautiful place.

morning light trees House Rock Valley Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaEven after days of rain, I left the Kaibab under a smoky haze.

2020 Magnum Fire LeFevre overlook SR89A Kaibab National Forest ArizonaA stop at the LeFevre overlook reminded me how scorched an arid landscape can look after extreme fire.  It will grow back, this is still pretty fresh from the 71,000 acre 2020 Mangum fire.

hoodoos 2-bridges Navajo Loop Trail Sunset Point clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTwo Bridges side of Navajo Loop Trail

trail crew working Wall Street Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTrail crew working on Wall Street

Back to work on Sunday with a better attitude and moderate morning start at 10:15 then done after two couple-hour information desk shifts including closing at 8pm.  Still feels like less visitors than early summer however they all want to hike the “most popular trail”, 2.9 mile Queens Garden and Navajo Loop combination.  Sadly, the Wall Street side of the Navajo Loop trail was closed due to a rockfall during the heavy rains on Friday.  Trail crew worked several days to clear and repair the damage.  Thankfully, the Two Bridges side of the loop was still open.  So just some unhappy hikers for a few days.

Plus now that the monsoon rains have arrived the general question is, “when will it stop raining?”  Our concerns aren’t about sweet visitors melting in the rain but remind them to pay attention to lightning.  Don’t be the tallest thing standing at the rim, or hover under the biggest trees nearby that often get struck by lightning.  Ponderosa Pines are fire resistant and will blow off burning bark.  However, lightning can travel through trees and ground at least ten feet.

hoodoos amphitheater valley trees Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMonday morning started with light rain that stopped in time for the 11am Hoodoo geology talk.  After an hour of answering questions I hid for lunch in the camper then returned to the rim and roved a couple hours at Sunrise Point with a comfortable temperature under 80° and a light breeze.  Then back to the desk for a couple more hours.

Pink Cliffs Valley Mollys Nipple Navajo Mt clouds Yovimpa Pt Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI was lucky enough to be scheduled for two days in a row to Yovimpa Point, my happy place.  The only bad part is getting up way early to first open the visitor center.  Good thing I packed lunch as the hotdog wagon wasn’t parked at Farview Point.  A gorgeous day that didn’t quite break 80°.  Visitation is light at Yovimpa Point, partly people don’t see the sign for the short walk.  Yet almost anybody who arrives is blown away by the massive 100° and 100 mile distant view from southeast to southwest.  At 9100 feet in elevation it’s like the view from on top of a mountain the car climbed for you.  I spent four hours answering questions, talking about the geologic view and fire ecology while keeping an eye on the weather radar and storm clouds that stayed north of the point.  One young girl and I talked for at least half an hour about the possibility of learning the languages and conversing with other animal species.  How cool is that!  Oh yea, that feeds into a better attitude.

Pink Cliffs Valley Mollys Nipple storm clouds Yovimpa Pt Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThen lightning became visible to the east and it was time to go with a warning to visitors not to linger.  The rain came down harder as I drove further north and I was soaked running into the building to drop off my radio at the end of the day.

Wednesday, my Friday, started as a repeat of the previous day with opening the visitor center.  This time I had a hotdog on the drive to the end of the road and asked about a punch card which they gave me.  Darn, I’ve been buying almost weekly for months.

Raven Yovimpa Pt Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy first visitor, Raven, posed long enough to get a couple photos then I was busy almost constantly for at least three hours with people in and out to share mostly short stories.

Pink Cliffs valley forest clouds SW Yovimpa Pt Bryce Canyon National Park UtahRain once again stayed north of Yovimpa Point all afternoon and I enjoyed another marvelous day with visitors.  Got home just before the next bout of thunder and rain.

Stellar Jay birds puddle Bryce Canyon National Park UtahStellar Jays from RV window

With only two days off I decided not to go anywhere, and even though I like to travel, that’s like a treat sometimes.  I had hopes to shoot the full moon but the skies were filled with gray clouds, raining, and even hailed briefly, to the point of puddles.  Thursday 1.4 inches fell in an hour.  Seems monsoon has arrived.  I love the energy in storms while also respecting their massive power. Safest to watch and experience from some distance and preferably indoors.  Plus I don’t want to get my camera wet.

Lynda Marble View Kaibab National Forest ArizonaMarble View storm

The most amazing power I feel is the love from friends with sincere suggestions that sometimes have to slap me hard to listen.  Dear Lynda reminded me to stop with the “if I make it through the season” line, and she’s right.  October 9th is my last day of work this summer at Bryce Canyon, and I’m going to make it to the end of the season.  Sweet Robert, after many years as a barista at the North Rim made a job move to the North Rim Country Store this summer and said he was excited about working at new places and looks forward to going anywhere he wants.  I can hear life mentor Berta telling me to move on to a new adventure in retirement when I can do what I want, when I want, and go anywhere I want.  Thank you all for helping me create a better attitude.

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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The gypsy life spring-summer 1998 - "You were a real pioneer. RV'ing before it was cool." ...Yogi

How do you process photos? - “Your photographs create an Emotional feeling in the viewer...that they become One with You.” …Cindy

Life’s transitions between travel and work play - "I know you love your job as much as you love travel -- it shines through all your posts." ...Sallie

Lions at Kruger National Park - “Wonderful post, thank you. I was hooked start to finish!” … Peter B

11 lessons looking back 2013 - “A great post -- made me think, made me smile, made me want to cry." ...Sallie

Wildlife video Kruger National Park - “Gorgeous, this makes me want to go straight to South Africa now.” … Ayngelina

Living nomadically & connecting to nature documentary - “What an experience you had and gave to the "crew." Sometimes I think you don't realize how unique and inspiring you are.” …Alan

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1. Prioritize the well-being of nature over photography. 2. Educate yourself about the places you photograph. 3. Reflect on the possible impact of your actions. 4. Use discretion if sharing locations. 5. Know and follow rules and regulations. 6. Always follow Leave No Trace principles and strive to leave places better than you found them. 7. Actively promote and educate others about these principles

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Sites I follow, read & recommend

  • A Full-time Life
  • A Yankee in Belgrade
  • Bob's Eyes
  • Box Canyon Blog
  • Camels and Chocolate
  • Dawns bloggy blog
  • In the Direction of Our Dreams
  • Jane in her infinite wisdom
  • Janie and Steve, Utah Trails
  • Kathie's Birds
  • Las Adventuras
  • Memorable Meanders
  • Oh, The Places They Go
  • On the Road Abode
  • Port Elizabeth Daily Photo
  • Stillhowlyntravels
  • Take to the Highway
  • Technomadia
  • the good luck Duck
  • Travel with the Bayfield Bunch
  • Wandering Earl
  • Wheeling It
  • Yogi's Den

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