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Category: Park Ranger

06 August 2020

Living in the NOW

Sierra cat on rocking chair in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI really try living in the NOW even though I enjoy memories and planning for the future.  With the recent state of COVID affairs, the future is so unreadable.  So I’m working on one day at a time which includes work and limited play.

Last week on a day off I was home working on the computer.  Everything seemed slow, barely a signal to get online, every program opened “not responding” for way too long.  I was frustrated with waiting.  During mid-day many visitors are online.  Living in the NOW was not so nice.

Rangers pointing at me VC plaza Bryce Canyon National Park UtahCelebrated World Ranger Day July 31st.  All Rangers deserve recognition for taking care of visitors everyday through a pandemic.  My supervisor has worked his bum off making Bryce Canyon National Park Rangers available to the public.  Thank goodness we don’t only staff the information tables outside the visitor center.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter a hoodoo geology program I hung out near Sunset Point.  That day, dramatic clouds provided intermittent shade for perfect hiking and taking photographs from the rim of the main amphitheater.

hoodoos valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNo rain hit the ground.

hoodoos valley Table Cliff shadows clouds Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day the clouds thinned out and the temperature rose.  I was a little cooked after four hours roving along the 8000 foot rim at 88°F.

red Paintbrush flowers in Manzanita bush Bryce Canyon National Park UtahA good time to stop in shade and take a photo.

light shadow hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAt one point, a visitor asked where is my favorite special place and when I told him, wherever I am, he couldn’t believe it.  “Like I would love the dump”, where I never go.  I told him “I try living in the now, as much as possible.”  He just couldn’t understand.

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Ravens on hoodoos Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMy now is frequently in the comfort of my own home—either RV—or outside in a lovely natural environment.  I kind of plan it that way.

Yovimpa Point from Bristlecone Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahLooking at Yovimpa Point from the Bristlecone Trail

Sunday, Ranger Julie and I went to Rainbow Point at the end of the scenic road, another hot day of 90°F at 9100 feet in elevation.  After setting up some tables with props and “Please do not touch” signs I left Julie to present the first Grand Staircase geology talks of the afternoon.

trees Pink Cliffs clouds Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI sauntered 1 1/2 hours roving almost one mile of the Bristlecone Loop Trail.

Southeast view Paria River canyon Rock Springs bench Hackberry canyon 50 Mile & Navajo Mt Bristlecone Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahFrom Bristlecone point I enjoyed a long distance view southeast putting more of the surrounding geography in perspective while trying to figure out what I saw.  Navajo Mountain bulges almost 10,000 feet on the horizon about 90 miles away.  Later with good NatGeo maps and some online help I determined to the left of Navajo Mt lies the Kaiparowits Plateau and the right Echo Cliffs.  Mid-ground starts with the upper Paria Canyon, with Rock Springs Bench next, followed by the Hackberry Canyon, and a rather unrecognizable flatland beyond which is actually multiple benches and canyons.

trees burn piles Bristlecone Loop Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI chatted with folks about fire ecology.  A section of the trail borders a backburn from 2018 when lightning strikes started the Lonely Fire in late August and early September the Riggs Fire.  They burned together outside the park and started to approach Rainbow Point in the park.  Suppressing fires for over 100 years didn’t do forests any favors.  Now people try to clean up the unnatural amount of dead fuels and even thin some trees in an effort to restore forest health.

Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger book coverAt a forest gazebo along the trail, I met a family and was interviewed by their soon to be Bryce Canyon Junior Ranger.  The Questions from their Junior Ranger Book and my answers follow:

“Which was the first national park you ever visited? When did you visit?”  1974, Rocky Mountain National Park.

“What do you remember about that experience?”   I thought I’d live there someday.  It just hasn’t happened, yet.

“What do national parks mean to you?”  Special places for special people, that’s everyone.

“Of all the national parks you’ve visited, which was the most special to you? Why?”  Whichever one I’m at, as a Ranger or visitor.  Because I try living in the NOW.

Ground squirrel begging Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAfter returning to Yovimpa Point it was my turn to talk geology while Julie roved.  After several hot hours with multiple small groups I briefly had the overlook to myself.  I sat down in the shade with a dark chocolate fig brownie and water.  Before long, a family arrived, walked to the safety fence, and a kid tells me a squirrel is eating my food.  No, I’m eating my food.  Except I forgot about the Oreos in my fanny pack, that I also forgot to zip shut.  My newest friend.

Navajo Trail trees hoodoos clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEven though I was tired from the long afternoon, I went out for the full moon rise as it was only ten minutes before sunset making it easier to photograph without using a tripod.  Walked down the Two Bridges side of the Navajo Loop Trail about five switchbacks, just below what I call the Mask.  (For its shape and nothing to do with COVID.)

hoodoo moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utahhoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

Took some shots of the last light before the moon rose a little further south than expected through a smoky haze so not visible until about 15° above the horizon.  I moved up and down trail 30-40 feet catching it between several different hoodoos.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe camera kept going auto on the ISO and I couldn’t figure out why.  After every shot I’d have to try to put the ISO back where I wanted it, on manual.

hoodoos moon Navajo Trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I figured out the problem is the touch screen, that is now turned off.  I look through the eye viewfinder with my left (and better) eye and my nose touched the screen.  The camera’s choice was up like 25,000 and exceedingly grainy.

I woke the next morning feeling exhausted after almost seven hours of sleep.  Even after coffee and breakfast I couldn’t do another day at Rainbow Point so called in sick and went back to bed for another four hours of blissful sleep.  Don’t think I messed up the schedule too bad as Paula had help opening then went to Rainbow alone.  I might have overdone the day before getting over heated and dehydrated.

Intern Ben at evening program Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBy afternoon I felt recovered and the next day shared a late schedule with our intern Ben.  It’s his last week here so I gave up my evening program for his presentation about the science of life in the universe.  Really glad I had to open locks for setting up the slide projector and be there for this excellent program, not about aliens.  Afterwards, most of the staff, all wearing masks, joined together in the employee parking lot to look at the sky with our Vogon telescopes.  (Not open to the public.)  The only time we’ve had them out all season.  We are all going to miss the two astronomy interns who soon return to online school.

rock hammer agate rock Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahSo, although I was up late on my Friday, the next day I went rock-hounding with April.  Being both our days off, my first her last, we didn’t start our adventure until 10am.  Besides we weren’t going too far away either.  And unlike my last drive-by, we had no problem finding Agate Hill.  Good idea to go rock-hounding with a geologist.

collection various agates from Agate HillOf course we gathered way too much rock even though under the allowed 25 pounds plus one for each person.  So many gorgeous colors: yellows, oranges, reds, black, root beer brown, and white.

Southwest view trees valley Agate Hill Dixie National Forest UtahI was so busy looking down at the rock that I failed to take many photos of the lovely landscape which included the eastern cliffs of Red Canyon as well as the Sevier River valley to the west.  After a couple hours we went to The Big Fish in Panguitch for lunch and quick stop at the market, plus a long wait for April’s ice cream cone at the tourist trap in Bryce Canyon City.  A wonderful day living in the NOW.

I respect that 2020’s NOW certainly isn’t always the best for many reasons.  But for my own sanity, I have to try living in the NOW at least some of each day to find the good and beauty.  What NOW are you happiest in?

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15 July 2020

Shopping from Bryce Canyon involves distance and time

I’m not all that keen on shopping whether it’s a long drive to town or online, but that’s what happened last week when I had to go shopping from Bryce Canyon National Park.

Northeast view Table Cliffs SR12 East UtahNortheast view Powell Point

Grey Cliffs SR12 East UtahI couldn’t bring myself to driving 1 1/2 hours west to the more than adequate sized Cedar City for just a few groceries, mostly fresh fruits and vegies on the list.  So instead I drove about an hour the opposite direction on Scenic Byway SR12 to the cute little town of Escalante.

trees sandstone cliff Puebloan ruin SR12 Utah

trees sandstone cliff Puebloan ruin SR12 UtahAlong the way, a wide place along the road with interpretive signs caught my attention.  The sign indicates looking way up high on the sandstone cliffs for Ancestral Puebloan granaries, food storage structures sort of like our pantries, but they looked more like dwellings to me.  I did not make the several hundred foot climb for further explorations.

house for sale Escalante UtahHouse for sale Escalante, Utah

Mimi's Bakery & Deli Escalante UtahMimi’s

Once in Escalante, first stop was Mimi’s Bakery and Deli for a delicious grilled portabella sandwich for lunch with homemade potato salad and a blueberry muffin for later.  They offer take-out with outdoor seating but I ate mine in the camper.  Got a few things at the grocery store and a couple more at the Organic Grocery. Damn problem with going to town is spending so much money.

East view Tropic Shale SR12 UtahMade one quick stop on the way home because I didn’t have the frozen foods in a freezer.  This overlook by the 7600 foot summit provides a far distant view east across the tropic shale where dinosaurs roamed some 70 million years ago along the marshy edge of an inland sea.

trees Gray cliffs northwest view Powell Point SR12 UtahNorthwest view Powell Point

That was barely 100 miles round trip and took five hours.  A fun and scenic drive with a U, and three-sided view, around Powell Point.

Pink Cliffs trees Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSouthwest view from Yovimpa Point

Back to work for my Monday on Saturday with an early start opening the outside information area.  Visitation is 30-50% down from last year but Saturday’s the busiest.

Southeast view Pink Gray White Cliffs clouds Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSoutheast view from Yovimpa Point

After a several hour stint answering repetitive questions—doesn’t anybody pre-plan and visit websites—I drove to Rainbow Point at the end of the park’s scenic road.  At Yovimpa Point–a short walk to the rim—I presented a couple Grand Staircase geology talks.  Plus took photos of the gorgeous light, shadows, and clouds plus the amazing distant view south across the Grand Staircase geology and national monument.

tree under Natural Bridge Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe tenacity of a tree can teach us much about survival in a harsh environment.

I heard on the park radio lightning was nearby the visitor center and rim talks were cancelled, but never saw a drop of rain.  Though later back home I heard thunder while considering a trip to the rim for sunset.  Yet I just didn’t have the gumption or energy after a full day under the sun and wind.

North campground amphitheater seating Bryce Canyon National Park Utah

mountain lion 6 feet distancing stickers Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I started late and presented the 9pm evening program about wildlife in Bryce.  Complete with animal sounds, the audience loved it and laughed when the sounds snuck in.

 

 

trees hoodoos light Bryce Canyon National Park UtahTemperatures were up into the high 80s and low 90s so it’s plenty warm hanging outside, especially when on the rim for several hours.  There are a few shady spots I rove from.

Pink Cliffs valley Table Cliffs storm clouds Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahEast view Powell Point from Rainbow Point

Sometimes it’s windy, which helps cool me off, but have to be careful not to loose my hat.

turkey vulture 6 feet distancing stickers Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI should probably get better at shopping online, but I’m a person who likes to touch and read labels so it’s difficult.  Yet somethings are just too far away for in-store shopping, like a new camera.  I asked a couple photographer friends for advice on replacing my well-past-its-time Nikon D5100 purchased in 2012.  I want to be able to use the lenses I already have so there were limitations, including budget.  One person recommended the Nikon D3500 camera body for $350 ordered from WalMart.  Not a bad price just a bad store.  But that version doesn’t include two features I like, AE bracketing and a variable motion LED screen.  Another person basically did the online homework for me and found a Nikon refurbished D5600 from a reputable camera store, B&H, for $449.  Not only does it have those two features I want but I’ll be moving up from 16mp to 24mp with less weight.  Yes, I ordered it last Friday and it should be here this week.  Won’t look much different than what I have.  Report coming.

Of course, as soon as I bought the camera my laptop started acting up.  I’m totally not ready to replace it right now.

rattlesnake 6 feet distancing stickers Bryce Canyon National Park UtahI recently discovered shopping for masks online is big.  Duh, why wouldn’t that be the case.  I have a couple black cotton masks issued by the park, and a pretty one made by a friend.  But I can’t wear the surgical masks with metal over the nose as my skin is sensitive to cheap metal.  I thought having my smiling lower face printed on a mask would be a good idea but that would also take shopping online.  I’ll think about it.

Suppose I could learn to order online, planning ahead for shopping from Bryce Canyon to Cedar City for my major grocery needs.  Too bad the new Natural Grocers’ doesn’t offer that option but I do like to cruise that store finding sales and sometimes items that weren’t on my list.  I’ll save that trip for next week, maybe.

West view Powell Point SR12 West UtahView west Powell Point through dirty window

I’m finding it difficult to travel into unknown places where I’m not exclusively outdoors and able to easily distance from people, especially those not wearing masks.  I even try not to spend much time in the Admin building/visitor center. Indoor time is typically my own RV home and vehicle.  Hope you’re not getting bored with the daily life of a seasonal Park Ranger at Bryce Canyon.

signs picnic area closed due to snakes Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahPicnics leave food scraps for rodents who become prey to snakes at Rainbow Point

This article speaks volumes.  I hope we’re not loving our national parks, and each other, to death.

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01 July 2020

Settling into a still changing routine at Bryce Canyon

trees hoodoos amphitheater Table Cliffs clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAlthough I am sort of settling into a routine at Bryce Canyon we are still introducing new services so schedules change and visitation continues to increase at the park.  Ranger programs are being expanded—but only if the individual feels comfortable and ready—including constellation tours Wednesday through Saturday.  Back-country trails opened July 1st.

trees rock SR89 Kanab UtahNormally, shopping is rather routine except when living in a remote place with a long scenic drive to services.  Last week I spent one of my three-day weekend driving 1 1/2 hours to Kanab for groceries.  Even better was visiting with a friend, who had been evacuated from the North Rim because of the Mangum Fire, over an outside lunch at my favorite Utah Mexican restaurant Escobars.  Shopping was adequate, lunch and company superb.

2020 Mangum burn by Jacob Lake InnSR89 Jacob Lake Inn photo

Friday, SR89A opened through Jacob Lake and the owners and staff of Jacob Lake Inn returned to clean and assess smoke damage from the Mangum Fire.  Two days later they were open for business but not overnight accommodations.  The North Rim Grand Canyon opened for day use June 30th.

Molly's Nipple & No Man's Mesa smoke from Wire Pass fire Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack to work on Saturday took me to the southern end of the Paunsaugunt Plateau to Yovimpa Point where I managed two Grand Staircase geology talks before the light rain and heavy wind arrived.  New smokes were visible from the previous night’s lightning strike starting the Wire Pass Fire plus general haze from the Mangum Fire.  As of Monday the Wire Pass fire closed House Rock Valley Road from Utah SR89 south to Arizona SR89A.  And that also closed hiking by permit to The Wave.

view northeast from LaFevre overlook by Jacob Lake InnView northeast from LaFevre overlook along SR89 Kaibab National Forest from Jacob Lake Inn photo

As of Sunday morning, the Mangum Fire had reached 71,450 acres at 51% containment and July 1st report at same acreage and 67%.  Monday’s report on the Wire Pass Fire indicated no growth over the 1580 acres, 10% containment, and closures still in place.

I was home Sunday with an upset stomach and slept most of the day having been up half the night feeling nauseous.  Might have eaten some lunchmeat on the edge of bad.  Don’t know what else it could have been as my daily diet doesn’t change much.

Mountain Bluebird Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMountain Bluebird from Rainbow Point

While sitting at my computer, I dearly enjoy watching out the window where I see Chipmunks scurry from pinecone to cone, a pair of Stellar Jays follow from perch to perch and may even hear babies squawking.

Yet not so pleasant when home is the smell of the horse corral through open windows and the noise of tractors moving horse shit around and setting up dust.  In the winter I get really spoiled by almost exclusively the sounds of nature.

hikers hoodoos Wall Street Navajo Loop Trail Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahHikers on Wall Street side of the Navajo Loop Trail

Knowing I had nothing to spread around to others and how short on staff we are I returned to work on Monday feeling better throughout the day.  Scheduled for a 11am hoodoo geology talk near Sunset Point with groups of people keeping respectful distancing, and 1pm unadvertised Rim Walk that didn’t go so instead I roved the rim.  Then ended the day at the information tables outside the visitor center followed by three and a half hours counting people into the visitor center with a limit of 50.  “Yes mam, that does include the bathrooms.”

chipmunk & Haley in RV Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by HaleyRanger Haley and chippy selfie

As much as I love to watch the wildlife, I don’t want them in my house.  Coming home to find a chipmunk sitting on the back of the couch and Sierra, the not very good mouser, watching it from the floor didn’t make me happy.  Where do they get in?  RVs are notorious for small openings allowing in various uninvited small critters.

live trap in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I borrowed a small live-trap from the park’s wildlife folks.  Now set up with peanut butter but no chippy.  Anyone had luck with electric ultrasonic rodent/insect repellers?

hotshots Yarnell Hill Fire from Christopher Mackenzie's recovered cell phoneLate Tuesday afternoon, my Friday, I went roving at Bryce Point, one of my favorite overlooks in the park.  When roving I meet the most wonderful people: folks from Illinois who helped rebuild houses from the Yarnell Hill Fire, seven years ago June 30th when 19 firefighters died.   I met a most amazing family with intelligent and curious teenagers in tow.  People often ask about my last name.  I thought Olmsted was a common enough name and I do get asked if I have relatives in California, Florida and places in between.  Not that I know anyway.  Yet the name also brings to mind Frederick Law Olmsted who I claim as an ancestor and had a history with national parks.  Have I mentioned how much I love my job?

Although seeing an increase in visitation, I’m still enjoying the weirdly wonderful of a whole lot less people this strange summer, and I think visitors are also.  Overlooks are not overcrowded and that’s the way it should be.  I know it’s not like that at all national parks, and they’re not all open.  Of course at Bryce Canyon our typical international visitation makes up 65% of the 2.6 million who visited in 2019.  Compare that to 1929, the first year visitation was recorded, when 5,232 vehicles entered the one-year old Bryce Canyon National Park.  The last week of June 2020 averaged 1,260 vehicles a day.

face mask litter by Sunset parking lot and trail to rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNote the mask dropped as litter

I support “America’s Best Idea” behind preserving landscapes, environments, and history for “future generations” from around the world, where the idea has spread.  I don’t want to see anyplace loved to death by overcrowding.

multiple use trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMany of our national parks reached critical mass over a decade ago.  And so many parks were established in the 1920s when nobody envisioned the huge influx of visitors.  Parking lots are small.  Pull-outs built to accommodate maybe half a dozen cars and certainly not huge RVs.  Narrow windy roads through spectacular landscapes made for slow driving.  A few scattered small and intimate campgrounds for tents.  Possibly a few cabins and a lodge for dining.  One hundred years later, it’s much easier to travel in go fast cars and RVs.  Promotional events like the 2016 National Park Service’s Centennial #FindYourPark, Utah’s “Mighty Five”, and social media quickly spread the word.  I’m not judging any of these things as bad.  However, I believe we need more parks—and Rangers—to give visitors a safe and uncrowded experience.

By the way, my rim walk is a history talk about changing connections to the land through cultural and individual time.  I’m ready if you’ll join me, at a safe distance please.  Next week, July 3, 4, and 5 at 4pm starting by Sunset Point.  See you there.

Couch Ranger badgeMost recent addition to my collection of Ranger badges

 

“Visitation to units of the National Park System reached 318 million in 2018, an increase of about 16% from a decade ago, with especially notable increases over the last five years.  But within that system-wide increase, there is great variation among individual parks.  Visitation has increased steeply to some of the most famous parks in the country.  Arches, Zion, Glacier, Acadia, and Yellowstone National Parks, for example, have all experienced significant double-digit percentage increases in growth in visitation over the last decade or so – 30%, 50%, even 60% increases.”

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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