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Category: National Parks and Monuments

23 April 2016

Moved in to the North Rim

Entrance station closed North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

This year it was quick and easy to get moved in to the North Rim at Grand Canyon National Park for my ninth summer season.  I am so happy that someone else tow the 5th-wheel this year.  Saved me the trouble of taking the slide-in truck-camper off and then back on again.  It’s kind of a pain.  Of course unlike the last eight years, this haul was only 85 miles and about 1 1/2 hours.  Previously, from Yarnell, I took two days to go 370 miles, typically stopping in Flagstaff a night or two to stock up on groceries and supplies.  I am now 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours from shopping again.

Dan towing 5er in side mirror Kanab UtahBy the time Bill arrived at 9am I was pretty much packed.  There were things to put in his truck, things to put in my camper, and then at 10 Dan arrived and hooked up to the 5er and we were on the road 15 minutes later.  Was very strange to look in my side mirror and see my house behind someone else’s truck.  All three vehicles caravanned up the Kaibab Plateau, through the forest and to the North Rim.

 

 

 

Meadows SR67 South Kaibab National Forest Arizona

Snow along SR67 North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaSadly, there is very little snow, only a few patches in the forest.  The tiny lakes are full and water stands in a few low places on the meadows.  As much as I don’t like cold and snow the Earth needs the moisture.  There is a prediction for snow Monday.  At the 8200 foot North Rim we often see snow into June.

 

Morning light in forest from RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Morning view

Pulled into Admin at 11am AZ time.  My new supervisor Mandi was there and showed me on a map where I had been assigned to park on Dusty Road yet explained there were options.  Sure glad of that because my Imax windows would have been backed up almost to another RV.  Yuck.  Instead I chose #9 Abbey Road.  I look out into a forest—no canyon views this year—of my favorite tree, Ponderosa Pine.  And I’m less than 1/4 mile from the rim of Transept Canyon.

RVs #9 Abbey Road North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Dan backed the RV into my new parking place, we got it leveled, then hooked up to electric, water, and sewer, and put the slides out.  With a little rearranging, I was home sweet home again.  And surprisingly I occasionally have a phone signal anywhere from 1x to 4g.  It’s real hit and miss.  But better than nothing.  I will set up the Wilson booster and hope for improvement.

Sunset over Widforss Plateau North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

After dinner Bill, Sasha and I walked to the rim for sunset.  The wind blowing in the tree tops sounding like waves crashing on the shore.  What a thrill to see golden color over the Widforss Plateau once again.

Sunset from RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Yet the cool cold breeze sent us back home where, surprise surprise, we could see the sunset through a very dirty window.  Does anyone out there wash windows?

Inside RV North Rim Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

And now I have until Monday morning to settle in.

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13 April 2016

Plan ahead to visit the North Rim Grand Canyon

Sunset light on Angels Gate & over South Rim from Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaI’ve posted this before but it’s worth repeating, plan ahead to visit the North Rim Grand Canyon National Park.  Complete with updated information.

GRCA NP visitation 1918-2015

The National Park Service Centennial will bring more people out to visit all parks making it more important than ever to plan ahead to visit the North Rim, or any National Park site for that matter.  The 2015 visitation at Grand Canyon National Park peaked at 5.5 million with 90% visiting the South Rim.  That doesn’t mean the North Rim will be less crowded.  The remote location with limited services and facilities is only open from May 15 – November 30, weather dependent.

No signal on GPS

It is unlikely a GPS will work in or around the North Rim so please get a paper map.  Go to the park’s website and download the Trip Planner.  Remember, the North and South Rims may only be separated by 10 miles as the Condor flies but it’s a 210 mile (338 km) drive via the Navajo Reservation on Hwy89.

There’s a $30/carload entrance fee if you don’t have a park pass and cash is not accepted at the entrance station.  However, visitors are not turned away.  Cash is accepted at the Visitor Center, and after hours’ entrance fees should be paid at the automated machine behind the Visitor Center.

Fog shrouded Vishnu Temple Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBe prepared for all kinds of weather.  8200 feet (2500 m) can mean cold and snow into June and as early as October.  Monsoon from July through September brings daily rain and sometimes clouds obscure the canyon views.  Heat in the canyon can soar above 100F (37 C) during summer.  Dry conditions requires drinking plenty of water.  Children dehydrate faster than adults.  Altitude sickness can be a reality many don’t recognize.  Symptoms include headache, nausea, and grumpiness.  The air is thinner and breathing can be difficult.

Mt Hayden & canyon beyond from Point Imperial North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaPoint Imperial overlook view

The scenic drive on the North Rim is 40 miles (64 k) round trip on a paved curvy road with no shoulders.  It is not recommended for a vehicle over 30 feet (9 m) for good reason.  Pull offs and parking are provided along the way.  Please don’t park on the roadway.  No food or water are provided and restrooms are located at only two points.  There is no shuttle service touring the North Rim however a hiker shuttle offers a five hour ride between the north and south side of the canyon.

Bright Angel trail end North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaBright Angel Point trail

Hike smart.  The North Rim offers many hiking options from an easy 1/2 mile to many miles.  Although you are welcome to wander anywhere you want think about sticking to established trails for safety’s sake.  If going off trail please don’t walk on the vegetation.  Use extreme caution along rocky edges.  Take at least one gallon, or 4 liters, of water per person for the day and salty snacks to help keep your electrolytes up.  No dieting at Grand Canyon as you’ll be burning up calories very fast.

Roaring Springs canyon North Kaibab Trail North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaNorth Kaibab Trail

If you’re hiking in the canyon the trail is steep.  What goes down must come up.  Day hikers are encouraged not to go more than the 5 miles (8 km) down to Roaring Springs on the North Kaibab Trail.  This is considered an all day hike for most people and you should get an early start.

Overnight camping along the main rim to rim trails at one of the three designated campgrounds in the canyon requires a permit which you typically apply for four months in advance.  Again, check the website for complete information.  Best, and most popular, time to hike in the canyon is spring and fall when inner canyon temperatures are not so brutal.  Stop at the backcountry office for more information.  Maybe you’ll get lucky and get a next day permit.

07 126 Cartoon Ranger telling animals not to feed the people g (1024x768)Ranger programs go on throughout the day and into the evening.  Subjects vary from geology, ecology, archeology, California condors and cultural history.  It’s a great way to learn more about your Grand Canyon.  Times and locations are listed in the North Rim newspaper and posted in the Visitor Center.

The Junior Ranger Program offers more learning opportunities for kids of all ages and you earn a Junior Ranger badge for your efforts.  Stop at the Visitor Center/Bookstore to pick up a Junior Ranger book and maybe a postcard or two.  Rangers are available to help you plan your visit.

Derek Suwaima-Davis Hoop Dance Heritage Days North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaSpecial events include the 4th of July water parade, Western Arts Day, the week long Star Party, Native American Heritage Days, the Kanab Symphony and special presentations by Artists-in-Residence.  Plus nature puts on a wildflower display most of the summer and the fall aspen turn to gold.

Snow around Lodge North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaFood options are available at the Grand Lodge for breakfast, lunch and dinner.  It is the most expensive of options but not outrageous for a National Park dinning experience with views of Grand Canyon.  Dinner reservations should be made in advance.  Deli in the Pines offers a variety of quick foods at reasonable prices like salad, pizza, sandwiches, ice cream, beverages and more.  Food can be eaten inside, outside, or to go.  There is also a Grand Canyon Cookout Experience that includes musical entertainment.  The camp store has pretty much all the basics but you’ll pay more than in town.  And speaking of town, the nearest grocery stores are in Kanab, Utah 85 miles away.

The Rough Rider Saloon offers some quick food and cocktails.  Plus coffee and rolls for the early risers.

Grand Canyon National Park does not sell small throw away sized water bottles.  But who needs all that plastic around when you can fill your own containers at the water fill stations.  It’s delicious spring water pumped up from 3000 feet (914 m) below the rim.  Roaring Springs provides water to both the North and South Rims.  Drink plenty of it but be conservative where you can.

Fall aspen by cabins North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaRental cabins

Accommodations are limited and typically require reservations far in advance for lodging and campground.  Dispersed camping is allowed in the adjacent Kaibab National Forest.  23 miles (37 km) away Kaibab Lodge which also offers excellent dinning.  45 miles (72 KM) away Jacob Lake Inn along with restaurant, gift shop and famous cookies and milkshakes.  Camping is also available around Jacob Lake.  East along SR89A is Cliff Dwellers, Lee’s Ferry and Marble Canyon.  To the north Fredonia, AZ and Kanab, UT offer many possibilities.

Fuel is available near the camp store 24 hours a day.  There is no mechanic on duty.

Pets must be on a leash at all times and only the Bridle Trail and the area around the lodge and visitor center are pet friendly.  Only service dogs allowed inside buildings.  Do not leave your pet unattended in a closed hot car.

Sun rays over Zoroaster & Brahma temples from Cape Royal North Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaCape Royal overlook for the best sunsets

If you’re coming for a visit please plan ahead to visit the North Rim.  I’ll be working there all summer and would be happy to answer your questions.  Planning will make your visit more enjoyable.

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19 March 2016

High and dry at Callville Campground, sort of along Lake Mead

February 22, 2015

Welcome SR 164 E Nevada

After a couple days exploring Mojave National Preserve we headed east towards home but decided to break up the drive by stopping for the night at Callville Campground, sort of along Lake Mead.

Joshua Trees SR 164 E Nevada

The drive took us through more Joshua Tree forests.

Lake Mead map NPS brochure

The lake is shrinking, a lot.  The Lake Mead National Recreation Area infrastructure was designed to operate optimally at lake levels between 1,180 feet (359.6 m) and 1,220 feet (371.8 m), levels typically seen in the past 30 years.  As of Wednesday, March 16, 2016 the water level was 146.4 feet (44.6 m) below full pool of 1,229.00 (374.5 m).  The National Park Service and concessionaires have spent millions of dollars extending launch ramps and moving marinas to chase the declining water.  Some facilities have been forced to close.

Lake Mead Nevada

These big yet shrinking reservoirs just don’t make sense.  Trying to hold mass amounts of water with a huge surface area that evaporates off what little gets there now anyway.

Truck camper Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

Invasive oleanders Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada
Invasive Oleander

 

Only a few people in the one open campground loop, dry camp for $20/night, half price with Senior Pass.  The site was level though not very large with picnic table and fire ring.  Bathrooms with running water, stand pipes occasionally, dump station.    Our nearest neighbor three sites over only ran the generator for a couple hours.  Ugh.  Good time to go for a walk.

 

 

 

Last light on hill Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

Sunset Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

The sun was low causing the surrounding hills to glow and providing a soft backdrop to the out of place looking and invasive palm trees?

Lake Mead Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

We walked down the closed road towards another campground loop and a tiny view of Lake Mead in the distance.  I’ll bet when the lake was full this place was hopping.

Lake Mead Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

Can you see that old water line?  Wonder how low the lake has to be to see what’s left of the original 1864 settlement of Callville, submerged after the completion of Hoover Dam in 1936.

Site 86 Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

We picked out a couple favorite camp sites that one time overlooked the lake.  I wondered at the absurdity of camping here in the desert with your ski boat beached nearby.  Now, the place has a rather dead feel and not because of the sparse vegetation.

 

Vultures in palm Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

 

Walking back I saw Vultures roosting in one particular palm.  Might not want to camp under this tree.

 

 

 

 

 

Full moon rise Callville campground Lake Mead National Recreation Area Nevada

 

Watched the full moon rise and went to bed early in preparation for the long drive home the next day.

 

 

 

SR169 N Nevada

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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

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