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Category: National Parks and Monuments

15 June 2023

Wonderful spires of rock at Chiricahua National Monument

hoodoos view W Massai Pt Chiricahua NM AZChiricahua National Monument was established in 1924 by President Calvin Coolidge and 84% of this 12,025 acre monument is designated as wilderness.  In 1934 the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) began improving the road and building trails and structures.  Yet millions of years before a volcanic eruption began the geologic process that would ultimately create the spires, pillars, and hoodoos currently protected in Chiricahua National Monument.

old cars Lowell Dist Bisbee AZIt was almost the end of April when I left Bisbee and continued exploring southeastern Arizona.  Next stop Chiricahua National Monument.

Sulphur Springs Valley SR181 N AZ

Sulphur Springs Valley SR181 N AZThe drive to the foot of the Chiricahua Mountains crossing Sulphur Springs Valley was mostly agricultural land.

border patrol check pt SR181 N AZAnd because the area is within 30 miles of the border with Mexico there’s a check point which simply entails a quick stop and carry on.

Chiricahua NM mapOnce I entered Chiricahua National Monument there was a small cemetery for Erickson family members who settled here in 1888 building the Faraway Ranch, but their home was closed for renovations.  They were preceded by the Chiricahua Apaches as the first known people to occupy the area—and visited by the Spanish during the 1500s—before being relocated by the government in 1886.

Bonita Canyon Dr CHIR NM AZ

Bonita Canyon Dr CHIR NM AZI stopped at the visitor center and picked up my Junior Ranger book before taking the Bonita Canyon Drive eight miles up to its end at Massai Point, an 1170 foot climb on narrow road with a length restriction of 24 feet.  Mine is about 21 feet total.

hoodoos view W Massai Pt Chiricahua NM AZ

hoodoos Massai Pt Chiricahua NM AZThe views took my breath away.  The west view beyond a basin filled with rock spires or hoodoos, across the Sulphur Valley and to the Dragoon Mountains about 70 miles away, where I just came from.

hoodoos Massai Pt CHIR NM AZI could barely take it all in and the afternoon was waning plus I still had to find a nearby camp so I could return in the morning and walk at least a little of the 17 miles of trails.

Pinery Canyon Rd Chiricahua NF AZ

Pinery Canyon Rd Chiricahua NF AZI use several different apps to look for free dispersed/boondock camping sites and headed for the recommended Pinery Canyon Road in the adjacent Chiricahua National Forest.  Rough road took me 30 minutes to drive five miles before I found a primitive campground under the trees with absolutely no signal.

lizard Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZ

hoodoos Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZWaking to 40° inside the camper prompted me to leave early and return to Chiricahua’s Massai Point to walk a trail and get a closer look at this rock.

view N hoodoos lookout Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZ

view SW hoodoos Massai Pt CHIR NM AZRoughly 27 million years ago a cataclysmic volcanic eruption spewed ash and molten debris at super-sonic speeds and formed the approximately 12 mile wide Turkey Creek Caldera located just to the south of the monument.  Ash and debris settled and compacted, forming a thick layer of rock called rhyolite tuff. This rock layer has fissured and eroded over time, forming the spectacular rock pillars of Chiricahua National Monument.

stone overlook Massai Pt CHIR NM AZ

viewer hoodoos Massai Pt CHIR NM AZThe Massai nature trail features a unique stone built overlook with multiple-point viewer across almost 180°.

trees hoodoos Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZ

view W rock trees Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZThe trail is an easy walk over boulders and under trees with many interesting shapes along the way.

trees hoodoos trl Massai Pt CHIR NM AZ

Mexican Jay bird Chiricahua NM AZOf course at my rate of pace, the .5 mile nature trail took over an hour while taking photos and videos.

twisted Juniper tree bark Massai trl Chiricahua NM AZBeing I’m more of a saunterer than hiker I didn’t take on any of the other longer trails.  Plus I needed a new camp for the night.

Chiricahua hat pinChiricahua Jr Ranger badge

Gaelyn swearing in Jr Ranger badge CHIR NM AZI did return to the visitor center for my hat pin, sticker, and Junior Ranger badge.

boulders sunset clouds Indian Bread Rocks BLM Bowie AZThen I exited Chiricahua National Monument and drove north to Wilcox, Arizona where I filled a propane tank before heading to my next destination, the new to me, Indian Bread Rocks Recreation Area.  A whole different kind of geology, and that story will be coming next.

You can visit the national monument’s official website here https://www.nps.gov/chir/index.htm

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Arizona, Chiricahua National Monument, National Parks and Monuments, Places I've been, United States geology, history, national monument, travel 14 Comments
01 July 2020

Settling into a still changing routine at Bryce Canyon

trees hoodoos amphitheater Table Cliffs clouds Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahAlthough I am sort of settling into a routine at Bryce Canyon we are still introducing new services so schedules change and visitation continues to increase at the park.  Ranger programs are being expanded—but only if the individual feels comfortable and ready—including constellation tours Wednesday through Saturday.  Back-country trails opened July 1st.

trees rock SR89 Kanab UtahNormally, shopping is rather routine except when living in a remote place with a long scenic drive to services.  Last week I spent one of my three-day weekend driving 1 1/2 hours to Kanab for groceries.  Even better was visiting with a friend, who had been evacuated from the North Rim because of the Mangum Fire, over an outside lunch at my favorite Utah Mexican restaurant Escobars.  Shopping was adequate, lunch and company superb.

2020 Mangum burn by Jacob Lake InnSR89 Jacob Lake Inn photo

Friday, SR89A opened through Jacob Lake and the owners and staff of Jacob Lake Inn returned to clean and assess smoke damage from the Mangum Fire.  Two days later they were open for business but not overnight accommodations.  The North Rim Grand Canyon opened for day use June 30th.

Molly's Nipple & No Man's Mesa smoke from Wire Pass fire Yovimpa Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack to work on Saturday took me to the southern end of the Paunsaugunt Plateau to Yovimpa Point where I managed two Grand Staircase geology talks before the light rain and heavy wind arrived.  New smokes were visible from the previous night’s lightning strike starting the Wire Pass Fire plus general haze from the Mangum Fire.  As of Monday the Wire Pass fire closed House Rock Valley Road from Utah SR89 south to Arizona SR89A.  And that also closed hiking by permit to The Wave.

view northeast from LaFevre overlook by Jacob Lake InnView northeast from LaFevre overlook along SR89 Kaibab National Forest from Jacob Lake Inn photo

As of Sunday morning, the Mangum Fire had reached 71,450 acres at 51% containment and July 1st report at same acreage and 67%.  Monday’s report on the Wire Pass Fire indicated no growth over the 1580 acres, 10% containment, and closures still in place.

I was home Sunday with an upset stomach and slept most of the day having been up half the night feeling nauseous.  Might have eaten some lunchmeat on the edge of bad.  Don’t know what else it could have been as my daily diet doesn’t change much.

Mountain Bluebird Rainbow Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMountain Bluebird from Rainbow Point

While sitting at my computer, I dearly enjoy watching out the window where I see Chipmunks scurry from pinecone to cone, a pair of Stellar Jays follow from perch to perch and may even hear babies squawking.

Yet not so pleasant when home is the smell of the horse corral through open windows and the noise of tractors moving horse shit around and setting up dust.  In the winter I get really spoiled by almost exclusively the sounds of nature.

hikers hoodoos Wall Street Navajo Loop Trail Sunset Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahHikers on Wall Street side of the Navajo Loop Trail

Knowing I had nothing to spread around to others and how short on staff we are I returned to work on Monday feeling better throughout the day.  Scheduled for a 11am hoodoo geology talk near Sunset Point with groups of people keeping respectful distancing, and 1pm unadvertised Rim Walk that didn’t go so instead I roved the rim.  Then ended the day at the information tables outside the visitor center followed by three and a half hours counting people into the visitor center with a limit of 50.  “Yes mam, that does include the bathrooms.”

chipmunk & Haley in RV Bryce Canyon National Park Utah by HaleyRanger Haley and chippy selfie

As much as I love to watch the wildlife, I don’t want them in my house.  Coming home to find a chipmunk sitting on the back of the couch and Sierra, the not very good mouser, watching it from the floor didn’t make me happy.  Where do they get in?  RVs are notorious for small openings allowing in various uninvited small critters.

live trap in RV Bryce Canyon National Park UtahThe next day I borrowed a small live-trap from the park’s wildlife folks.  Now set up with peanut butter but no chippy.  Anyone had luck with electric ultrasonic rodent/insect repellers?

hotshots Yarnell Hill Fire from Christopher Mackenzie's recovered cell phoneLate Tuesday afternoon, my Friday, I went roving at Bryce Point, one of my favorite overlooks in the park.  When roving I meet the most wonderful people: folks from Illinois who helped rebuild houses from the Yarnell Hill Fire, seven years ago June 30th when 19 firefighters died.   I met a most amazing family with intelligent and curious teenagers in tow.  People often ask about my last name.  I thought Olmsted was a common enough name and I do get asked if I have relatives in California, Florida and places in between.  Not that I know anyway.  Yet the name also brings to mind Frederick Law Olmsted who I claim as an ancestor and had a history with national parks.  Have I mentioned how much I love my job?

Although seeing an increase in visitation, I’m still enjoying the weirdly wonderful of a whole lot less people this strange summer, and I think visitors are also.  Overlooks are not overcrowded and that’s the way it should be.  I know it’s not like that at all national parks, and they’re not all open.  Of course at Bryce Canyon our typical international visitation makes up 65% of the 2.6 million who visited in 2019.  Compare that to 1929, the first year visitation was recorded, when 5,232 vehicles entered the one-year old Bryce Canyon National Park.  The last week of June 2020 averaged 1,260 vehicles a day.

face mask litter by Sunset parking lot and trail to rim Bryce Canyon National Park UtahNote the mask dropped as litter

I support “America’s Best Idea” behind preserving landscapes, environments, and history for “future generations” from around the world, where the idea has spread.  I don’t want to see anyplace loved to death by overcrowding.

multiple use trail Bryce Canyon National Park UtahMany of our national parks reached critical mass over a decade ago.  And so many parks were established in the 1920s when nobody envisioned the huge influx of visitors.  Parking lots are small.  Pull-outs built to accommodate maybe half a dozen cars and certainly not huge RVs.  Narrow windy roads through spectacular landscapes made for slow driving.  A few scattered small and intimate campgrounds for tents.  Possibly a few cabins and a lodge for dining.  One hundred years later, it’s much easier to travel in go fast cars and RVs.  Promotional events like the 2016 National Park Service’s Centennial #FindYourPark, Utah’s “Mighty Five”, and social media quickly spread the word.  I’m not judging any of these things as bad.  However, I believe we need more parks—and Rangers—to give visitors a safe and uncrowded experience.

By the way, my rim walk is a history talk about changing connections to the land through cultural and individual time.  I’m ready if you’ll join me, at a safe distance please.  Next week, July 3, 4, and 5 at 4pm starting by Sunset Point.  See you there.

Couch Ranger badgeMost recent addition to my collection of Ranger badges

 

“Visitation to units of the National Park System reached 318 million in 2018, an increase of about 16% from a decade ago, with especially notable increases over the last five years.  But within that system-wide increase, there is great variation among individual parks.  Visitation has increased steeply to some of the most famous parks in the country.  Arches, Zion, Glacier, Acadia, and Yellowstone National Parks, for example, have all experienced significant double-digit percentage increases in growth in visitation over the last decade or so – 30%, 50%, even 60% increases.”

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Bryce Canyon National Park, CORVID-19, National Parks and Monuments, Park Ranger, Places I've been, United States, Utah chimpmunk, geology, Mangum fire, park history, programs, RV life, seasonal Park Ranger, Wire Pass fire 20 Comments
21 May 2019

Exploring East on Utah’s Scenic Byway SR12 to Escalante

Nice to have so many friends visiting Bryce Canyon National Park, but I also need to explore the surrounding area so on a day off last week I took a drive east on Utah’s Scenic Byway SR12, 60 miles to Escalante (e-skə-ˈlan-tē), or as the locals call it Escalant.

trees hoodoos valley Table Top Plateau from Agua Canyon overlook Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBryce Canyon hoodoos and beyond to Table Top Plateau from Agua Canyon overlook

May has been a busy month at Bryce with training and preparing multiple programs.  It has also been busy with friends visiting, maybe more this month than many seasons at the North Rim.  I love to share, and touring around with friends talking their ears off about all things Bryce Canyon helps me learn and remember.

cliff valley ridge SR12 east UtahA few sprinkles of rain fell as I left Bryce Canyon City on SR12 and dropped off the Paunsauguant Plateau southeast through colorful limestone rock layers into Bryce Valley below.

side mirror Sinking Ship in Bryce Canyon National Park from SR12 East Tropic UtahSinking Ship in Bryce Canyon NP

Now I looked up towards the Paunsauguant Plateau trying to connect the dots and get oriented.  Trees were leafed out in the valley with brilliant greens in Tropic just less than 2000 feet below the park where I’m seeing very few buds.  Didn’t stop as my mission was the town of Escalante.  Slowed down in three miles for Cannonville where I also didn’t stop at the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument Visitor Center as I’ve already been there, or take the Cottonwood Canyon Road south to Kodachrome Basin where I’ve also been but will return.

barn Gray Cliffs SR12 Cannonville to Henrieville UtahContinued past the Gray Cliffs and another five miles on through Henrieville.  Don’t blink or you’ll miss these tiny agricultural towns.

The Blues Powell Point clouds SR12 east UtahRemember Table Top Plateau from above

From there, SR12 turns northeast and continues working it’s way around the Table Top cliffs and Powell Point high above at 10,000 feet.

The Blues Kaiparowits Plateau Dixie National Forest SR12 east Utah

Kaiparowits Plateau Dixie National Forest SR12 east UtahA 25mph curvy climb up The Blues onto the Kaiparowits Plateau.  Small side roads beckoned to Canaan Peak and the Upper Valley Guard Station on the Dixie National Forest, for another time.

cliffs Upper Valley Creek SR12 east UtahOver the top at 7600 feet then follow Upper Valley Creek down.

Escalante Interagency Visitor Center Escalante Utah

relief map Grand Staircase-Escalante Visitor Center Escalante UtahI stopped at the Escalante Interagency Visitor Center, chatted with a Forest Service employee, and bought maps.  A paper map is the best way for me to orient, especially in a new landscape.  Probably should have watched their orientation movie and perused the museum but by now I was starving hungry and headed to town.

rock shop sign SR12 East enterning Escalante UtahEscalante, the town, is nestled between the elevated meadows of the Aquarius and Kaiparowits Plateaus.  Settled as Potato Valley in 1876 by Mormon pioneers who were advised by members of the second Powell Expedition to name the town after the river running through the valley named after Silvestre Velez de Escalante, a Spanish priest and explorer who traveled through the region in 1776 searching for a route between Santa Fe and California.

Escalante Mercantile and Natural Grocery Escalante UtahMy first stop was the Escalante Mercantile and Natural Grocery where I not only bought some wonderful and not too terribly overpriced organic strawberries, tomatoes, and a zucchini, but also bought lunch by the pound of dill baked wild salmon and fresh Greek potato salad eaten on their deck.

Mimi’s Bakery & Deli Escalante UtahThen across the street at Mimi’s Bakery & Deli I bought an almond crescent for desert and a huge blackberry muffin for breakfast.  I finished stocking up on groceries at Griffin’s Grocery & General Merchandise, a nice store, adequately stocked with good small town prices.  And topped off diesel fuel for .20/gallon less than anywhere else along this journey.

old brick house for sale Escalante UtahI especially admire the old brick houses, some renovated more than others, and although I’m not looking to buy might consider Escalante for a winter home base.  It’s a town of 800 people located in the middle of nowhere, just what I like, and does offer basic services including RV parks (not my permanent living preference), motels, B&Bs, Yurts, auto repairs, coffee shop, outdoor gear, a variety of restaurants, and already mentioned shopping.

cliffs Upper Valley Creek clouds SR12 West Kapairowits Plateau Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument UtahThe return trip was of course equally beautiful.  Back up onto the Kaiparowits Plateau, definitely worth more exploration in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument for hiking, awesome geology and arches, fossils, and native ruins.

The Blues Powell Point clouds SR12 UtahStopped at The Blues overlook with Table Top Plateau high above.  This badland of gray-green shale was deposited about 80 million years ago when the area was covered by an inland sea.  This versus the younger sandstone and freshwater limestone deposited later.

formation Promise Rock wayside SR12 Henrieville UtahBack in Bryce Valley near Henrieville, the Promise Rock wayside provides more stunning rocky views.  The town of Henrieville was settled in the 1870s and with a current population of a bit over 200 I suspect generations of decedents still reside in this cattle ranching community.  I didn’t drive the side streets here or Cannonville as I did in Escalante and Tropic.

DSCN7140 valley Table Top Plateau Tropic UtahOnce again Table Top Plateau

valley Bryce Canyon National Park from Tropic UtahFar left cliffs Bryce Canyon amphitheater

Tropic is nestled between the amphitheaters of Bryce Canyon National Park to the west and Table Top Plateau to the east.  Established in 1891 yet even with a growing population and development for tourism the population in 2010’s census was 530.  I stopped at the hardware store where a guy, possibly the owner claiming third generation from Ebenezer Bryce, talked Tropic history for 30 minutes when finally another customer interrupted.  Thank goodness, interesting but I wanted to also check out the Clarke’s Country Market which turned out to be just OK with tourist prices.

hoodoos SR12 west Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBack up onto the Paunsauguant Plateau after six hours to Escalante and back home to Bryce.

Prarie Dog sign driveway Bryce Canyon National Park UtahSo much more to explore east along Utah’s Scenic Byway SR12 like Petrified Forest State Park, Calf Creek Recreation Area, The Hogback, the towns of Boulder and Torrey, plus beyond to Capitol Reef.  And then there’s side trips to Posey Lake, Hole-in-the-Rock and Hell’s Backbone Roads, the Burr Trail and Anasazi Village State Park.  All that and more in only one basic direction, east, of Bryce Canyon National Park.  No wonder so many people love southern Utah.

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National Parks and Monuments, Places I've been, United States, Utah Bryce Canyon NP, Cannonville, Escalante, Henrieville, SR12, Tropic, Utah Scenic Byway 35 Comments
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Hi, I’m Gaelyn, the Geogypsy

I retired after 29 summer seasons as a Park Ranger, traveling solo for 40+ years. My passions include travel, connecting to nature, photography, and sharing stories.

I started exploring US National Parks in 1977 and 20 years later became a seasonal Park Ranger.  I’ve lived full-time in a RV for 30 years working summers and playing winters.  I’m still trying to figure out what I want to be when I grow old, other than grow up.

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