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My top favorite National Park

Ranger Gaelyn Visitors often ask, “what’s your favorite national park?”  My immediate answer, “which ever one I’m at.”

Crater Lake National Park OregonCrater Lake National Park, Oregon

How can you pick just one?  All national park sites established around the world are favorites of someone.  It’s why they are protected and preserved.  Although I’m drawn to the nature based parks I also enjoy cultural sites.

Visited 61 out of 401 US National Parks

Mt St Helens from Smith overlook Mt St Helens NVM WashingtonMt St Helens National Volcanic Monument, Washington

I started visiting national parks during my first major solo road trip 38 years ago.  My first was Rocky Mountain and I told myself, “I want to live here.”  Hasn’t happened yet, but I’m still thinking about it.  At that time I knew nothing about being a Park Ranger and little did I dream that 16 years later as an adult college student I’d be introduced to rangering at Mt St Helens National Volcanic Monument.  I was hooked immediately.  Some days it’s hard to believe I get paid for sharing stories about people and places.

Working in parks

Last light & view NE from Lippan Point South Rim Grand Canyon National Park ArizonaGrand Canyon National Park, Arizona

Although I’d already worked for the Forest Service, Fish & Wildlife and the National Park Service, the first time I visited the South Rim of Grand Canyon I said, “I’m going to work here someday.”  Of course I ended up on the North Rim which is even better in my opinion even though there are no bad views of the canyon.

Spruce Tree House Mesa Verde National Park ColoradoMesa Verde National Park, Colorado

My favorite things about working in a park is learning, sharing and meeting wonderful people from around the world.  Visitors love national parks.  All us Rangers ask is not to love them to death.  Have respect for the people and place.  Before cliff dwelling tours at Mesa Verde I asked visitors to treat these ancient sites like their Grandmother’s home.  Part of a Rangers’ job is protecting these special places “for future generations.”  We try to reach this goal through education and helping visitors connect to the site emotionally and intellectually.

Sunset from South Campground Zion National Park UtahZion National Park, Utah

I love to do research and learn new things which I did a lot of putting together a history of hatcheries along the Columbia River while working for US Fish & Wildlife.  My office was located at Little White Salmon Fish Hatchery so I also lead hatchery tours.  I think what I learned most here was I’d rather eat salmon than study them.  Though it was interesting.

Visited 12 out of 19 South African National Parks

Elephant following truck Kruger National Park South AfricaKruger National Park, South Africa

Many of the SANParks I’ve visited are way different than anything here in the States.  While self-driving on safari in wildlife parks there aren’t a lot of options to hike unless with an armed Ranger.  Yet it feels right to me being in the cage of a vehicle so the animals can live free.  Plus there are many parks with hiking options into interesting landscapes like mountains, desert and beach.  And although I don’t usually pick favorites, so far Kruger National Park is number one on my list with Addo Elephant running a close second.

America’s Best Idea

Karijini National Park, Australia by Ignacio PalaciosKarijini National Park, Australia

The United States may have been first to establish a national park — Yellowstone, in 1872 — but governments around the world have reserved thousands of acres supporting wildlife conservation, protecting natural beauty and important cultural sites while promoting ecotourism.  In fact nearly 100 countries around the world have lands classified as a national park.  Australia started in 1879  and currently has 685 parks.  If the rate of exchange was in my favor this would be the next place for me to travel.  Or maybe to China’s 208 parks with a current rate of exchange 1US$ to 6.12 Yuan, except it’s winter there when I want to travel.

Hoodoos & beyond from Bryce Point Bryce Canyon National Park UtahBryce Canyon National Park, Utah

They are all my favorite, just for different reasons.  Not trying to break any records but there are still a lot of national park sites on my list.  There’s something about connecting to the land that soothes my Pleistocene soul.

Rainbow Bridge National Monument Lake Powell UtahRainbow Bridge National Monument, Utah

Do you have a ‘favorite’ national park?

National Park 36 Comments

Comparing wildlife in South Africa National Parks

Burchells Zebras Kruger NP SA

I’m sure you’ve seen Zebras in a zoo and they were probably Burchell’s which are seen at several South Africa National Parks.  Adorable horse-like creatures wearing stripped pajamas.  But have you ever looked closely?  No two Zebras have the same stripe pattern as each other and are different on both sides as well.  In fact at the time of birthing the mother leaves the herd (called a dazzle) so her newborn can imprint on her specific stripes.  I saw hundreds of Burchell’s Zebras in Kruger and Addo National Parks in South Africa.

Mountain Zebra Mountain Zebra National Park South Africa

Yet I also saw Mountain Zebra, a threatened species, and although the varying stripe pattern remains these Zebras do not have stripes on their bellies and the typical white area shows a shadow of brown which can also be seen on their faces.  The do appear a little smaller as well.  These were seen at Mountain Zebra National Park which is a different environment from Kruger and Addo.

Blue Wildebeest Kruger National Park South Africa

Also seen at Kruger are the Blue Wildebeest which appear rather silvery blue-gray with a long black tail.  Sometimes called the common or white-bearded Wildebeest they are large antelope that can grow to 57 inches (145 cm) at the shoulder.  They roam the open plains, bushveld and dry woodlands found in Eastern Africa.

Black Wildebeest Mountain Zebra National Park South Africa

The Black Wildebeest, or white-tailed gnu don’t look black at all except for their beards.  They are found in the Southern parts of Africa.  I saw these blonde-tailed beesties at Mountain Zebra National Park.

Comparing the difference between species can be quite subtle.  The next time you’re at the zoo try to look closely and figure out which you see.  Or better yet, go on safari in Africa.

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Golden Gate Highlands National Park South Africa is on the list of parks to visit

All national parks offer something different, and Golden Gate Highlands National Park in the Free State of South Africa may not have the Big 5 but is abundant in wildlife, birds, grasslands and towering sandstone cliffs full of geologic and cultural wonders.

Brandberg Golden Gate Highlands NP
Brandberg Golden Gate Highlands NP by Jonker Fourie

And it’s one of many national parks I’ll be visiting.  I’m a national park junkie because I believe that saving and protecting places of natural and cultural importance is for now and forever.  I can see staying at Golden Gate Highlands for several days as there is much to see and do.  Located on the northern border of Lesotho in the Maloti Mountains with the Drakensberg Mountains to the south this is one of the smaller protected areas in the country and one of the highest too.  Why is it that so many  parks have been created because of the biggest, tallest, oldest or deepest something?

Golden Gate Highlands NP map

 

Geology

Golden Gate National Park got its name from the high sandstone cliffs which glow in the late afternoon sun.  That means I have to catch sunset there, hopefully more than once.  And although not a geologist I am fascinated by the processes that create massive landscapes and try to learn a little ahead of a visit then put that story in my mind.

stratification at Golden Gate Highlands NP

The bottom red layer, Elliott mudstone, was created 200 million years ago when swampy rivers deposited a mud-like sediment.  196 million years ago, the area dried up and became a desert with sand dunes resulting in the yellow Clarens sandstone.  Over the years, water moving through the sandstone caused a buildup of calcium carbonate in some layers which cemented the sand particles into the harder rock of Calcified Sandstone.  The heat and pressure of molten lava from 160-190 million years ago during volcanic activity cooked the sandstone layer beneath turning it into quartzite. Then rivers and streams carved through the layers of rocks to reveal the formations present today.

 

Wildlife

bearded vulture
Bearded vulture

Mineral rich soil from the eroded rocks allowed vast grasslands on this high plateau which provides for many grazing animals like the zebra, wildebeest, eland, hartebeest and oribi.   I sure hope to see and photograph not only the mammals but the rare bearded vulture and endangered bald ibis.  I’m taking a small field guide along in the hopes of identifying these unknown creatures.

Plus the fossil evidence of Massospondylus dinosaurs from 100 million years prior to other discoveries reveals at least 10 nesting sites with eggs and baby dino footprints.  How cool is that.

 

Cultural history

san-rock-painting

Rock-art found near some of the many caves indicate people living here 1000s of years ago known as the Khoisan or Bushman.  During the early 1800s when European farmers arrived the Bushman left.  Then war ensued throughout the next century and into the 1900s during the Anglo-Boer wars ending with British victory in 1910.  In 1962, the government bought Golden Gate and handed the land over to the National Parks Board.

Today the park plays an important social-economic role in the area.  It lies between the town of Clarens where wealthy Johannesburg residence come to spend their weekends, and Qwa-Qwa one of the poorest areas in the country.  So the park helps create jobs through tourism, activities and development projects.

 

Things to do and places to stay

Hiking, horseback riding, loop drives and camping are popular in Golden Gate Highlands.  Trails range from a few hours to a couple days.  Two loop drives go through grasslands with mountain views and wildlife.  Guided horseback rides are recommended as the most effective way to see the otherwise inaccessible hills and valleys.  I’d like to take a ride while there.  Plus the Glen Reenen Rest Camp offers campsites and chalets by the river.

There is a tour into the Basotho Cultural Village where actors depict various aspects of traditional Sotho life and overnight arrangements can be made.  But I think I’d rather see the real thing across the border in Lesotho.

If roughing it isn’t your thing the Golden Gate Hotel lies in the heart of the park with a lodge, restaurant, bar and coffee shop.

 

By visiting national parks we can learn not only about the place and the culture but ourselves as well.  Always keep in mind to tread lightly and support the local communities. Then share with others the wonders of the world so they too want to preserve these places whether they visit in person or not.  I’m excited about using my Wild Card to visit many national parks in South Africa.

What have you learned about a national park you’ve visited?

 

Capturing the present for future memories of the past

National Park, South Africa, travel 33 Comments

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