Finally, I get to travel, so I packed the camper and left to go to Grand Canyon. Boondocked on the Kaibab National Forest near Grandview Lookout Tower and explored the eastern end of the South Rim. It’s a Grand adventure because I’m not all that familiar with this side of the big ditch.
I may not travel on holidays like 4th of July, but that doesn’t stop me from making a plan to go to Grand Canyon this month. And I like to pack slowly so started off with filling water bottles and loading them into the truck. Eight gallons will ride on the passenger seat floor and five more inside the camper. That’s over a week’s worth of water and I can refill in the park.
Another project was to move my hatpin collection from one curtain to another…
…because, I made a new curtain for the camper. Bought a Pier One lap-blanket at a thrift store that is just the right green (unlike the photo) and size when cut in half. I don’t sew but a glue gun worked just fine to hold a casing and hem. Three “C” hooks reinforce the tension rod. I’m happy with how it turned out. Nice and heavy to keep out the winter cold and bright morning light. I know, it’s summer. But the job had to be done.
In order to go to the Grand Canyon I needed to create and schedule blog posts and videos. So I spent more than a day at the computer with my assistant staying close by. She seems to know we’re going to travel. I packed a few more things but really had to wait until morning for most of the food stuff.
Finished packing and hit the road Thursday morning about nine. Shopping and diesel fuel at $5.53/gallon on the way. I really wasn’t rushing as I didn’t want to arrive at the park entrance during the busiest time mid-day.
Drove through historic Williams then headed north on SR64. Took video almost the whole way and will create a Rambling Road Trip for my YouTube channel.
Pulled up to the park entrance at 4pm and after three rigs in front of me I was ready to go to Grand Canyon, but not the main Village area. Instead I headed east towards Desert View Watchtower.
My first stop to actually see the canyon, Duck on a rock, is just wide parking along the north side of the road.
I also stopped at Grandview Point but didn’t stay long as I wanted to find a boondock camp for the night.
About one mile out of the park on a rather rutted gravel road I entered the Kaibab National Forest, parked at the first obvious camp, and made a 360° video. I knew this wasn’t going to be a private site so wasn’t surprised when a motorhome arrived and parked nearby. Sadly, this German family had three tiny yet noisy children. Thankfully, they pulled out in the morning.
After a late breakfast, I walked the road about 3/4 mile to Grandview Lookout Tower. Along the way I saw several other nice campsites and thought I would choose one another day. Bright pink cactus flowers beckoned me into the forest and a cell tower was a total surprise. No wonder I had a decent signal in camp.
As I approached the parking below the fire tower, four side-by-sides on tour roared up. Some of the group climbed and others did not. They didn’t stay long and I had the place to myself.
So I climbed, the first set of stairs. Even though I am not afraid of heights it’s a little disconcerting to look down through a gridded step. I tried mostly to look straight ahead.
I stopped at the first landing, fascinated by the lines and patterns of the structure. Then I climbed the second set of stairs.
Built by the Civilian Conservation Corps in 1936, the steel Grandview tower is 80 feet tall with a 7×7 foot cab on top that wasn’t currently staffed so I couldn’t get inside. Yet I decided to climb the third set of steps to get a view above the trees.
The two-room cabin accommodates the fire lookout person.
I could barely see the Walhalla Plateau on the North Rim to the left and that’s Echo Cliff between the trees on the right. At 40 feet up I could tell this wasn’t going to be an exemplary place to shoot the upcoming full moon, even with clear skies. So that was far enough for me.
I took a bunch of video but had to hold both rails on the way down. Maybe I’d come back if I moved camp closer for a chance at sunset, if not the moon.
The next day after choosing photos to process from the tower, I spent most of the day sitting outside, watching birds, breathing deep the rich smell of a Ponderosa Pine forest, and even a short walk about camp. A new neighbor came over and we chatted for a while.
The evening ended under an orange glow.
A partly cloudy morning called me to get out and go to Grand Canyon. So I slowly bounced my way out of the National Forest and back to pavement. I drove east thinking I’d be at the Desert View Watchtower for sunset. But there were several overlooks to explore along the way.
Moran Point, named for famous artist Thomas Moran who joined John Wesley Powell in 1873 on an expedition to go to Grand Canyon. He later used sketches and photographs to paint the 7×12 foot “Chasm of the Colorado” that hangs in Congress to this day. Sadly, his depiction is not an actual location but a composite of imagination.
Next stop Lipan Point offering some of the most expansive views with the longest perspective of the Colorado River. To the west can be seen the oldest rock, 1.75 billion years, carved by the river within the inner gorge.
Below, the “S” curves of the Colorado carve through the rare red tilted layers of the 1255-1100 million years old Supergroup. The lower left sandbar, called Unkar Delta, is where ancient Puebloan people lived and grew crops between 850 to 1200AD.
Looking upstream the river appears around a bend coming from the north, and the Marble Plateau can be seen with Echo Cliffs on the eastern horizon.
I next stopped at Navajo Point mostly for the exceptional view of the stone built Desert View Watchtower, where I planned to be for sunset.
It was hot that afternoon so I found a shady place to park in the oversized vehicle lot for the tower and after a reconnaissance walk to the rim returned to the camper for a nap followed by dinner.
Sunset was Grand, and lasted for about an hour as I stood in awe watching rays beam down highlighting the temples and topography.
Sadly, the first-come first-serve Desert View campground had been full at noon. I really didn’t want to drive back into the forest after dark. So, I opted to stay put and figured if anybody came by to kick me out I’d tell them I wasn’t camping but was hoping the clouds would clear so I could photograph the night sky, and then be there for sunrise. All good reasons to go to Grand Canyon.
Wonderful post! One “advantage” the South Rim has over the North Rim is that it faces north and so, one is not looking into the sun or into shadows when observing the canyon. Another is that it is lower in elevation such that you are “inside” the canyon in relation to the North Rim. I understand there is a “North Rim is better” meme out there – all of the North Rim’s well-known attractions are not to be minimized by my observations. But, like the North Rim, the South Rim has some qualities that the other rim does not.
Thanks. It sure is interesting to see the canyon from this other side, and you are right about the lighting. There are no bad views of Grand Canyon.
SPECTACULAR !!!! as always.
Thank you.
What a lovely adventure. Excited to see your Rambling Road Trip video. I’d like to climb the Watchtower and walk a little of the AZT too. Any day at the Canyon or Forest is a good day. Enjoy!!
Been fun so far. I assume you’ve climbed a few towers on the North side plus walked some of those AZT sections as well.
What a wonderful journey Gaelyn, would have loved being there with you the scenery, the wonderful skies and of course all those Grand Canyon shots. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I’d love to have you along, in real time.
That was a lovely adventure!
(ツ) from Jenn Jilks , ON, Canada!
Thanks.
Great to see you on the road, and lovely to see the canyon from a different perspective than your north rim photos from so many years working there. The difference between a road trip and a long stay is that you can wait around for the light to be just right. Not so on a day or two kind of trip. I was wondering about the heat that that elevation, lower than the north rim but higher than Skull Valley for sure. Love the throw, by the way. Looks great. And what a great choice for hat pins. I have a few, but never know where to put them so they sit in a drawer. I am not a wearer of hats. Looking forward to finding out if you got kicked out of the parking lot or if no one bothered, or if your reasoning worked. Sounded good to me. Travel safe
Thanks. Guess that’s why I like to stay at a place for a while and get to know it a bit. It’s about 10-15° cooler here than Skull Valley, but still plenty warm for 7000 feet. If I tried to wear all those pins on a hat I couldn’t lift my head. I didn’t go to jail.
I agree – great post. Thanks!
Thanks.
What a great trip! I feel like I’m right there with you! We camped at the campground back around…1977…and had an elk wander into our area the next morning!
Thanks. I’ve been hoping for some elk in camp.
Really enjoyed this post Gaelyn and am so happy you are back at the Grand Canyon which can’t fail to provide fabulous photos. And boy did you get some. I particularly like the S curves of the Colorado one and the two below that. Desert View Watchtower is probably my favorite spot on the South Rim. I just love Mary Colter. What beautiful cactus flowers! The fire look out cabin made me thing of Ed Abbey such a favorite of mine too. Really envy you the fantastic smell of the ponderosa pine. I need a candle with that scent. I loved both your sunset picture – the orange glow and the last one atop the canyon. Hope you didn’t get thrown out overnight. It’s a cliff hanger….will she get to stay and can she get a spot at Desert View tomorrow. Great post!
Thanks. Feels good to be here at the big ditch. Also very different than the North Rim, same hole. Thank goodness this fire lookout cabin is in much better shape than Abbey’s old cabin on the North Rim. but then he would have preferred the quiet side of the canyon. All I’ll say is, I slept through the night.
Great that your once again on a moving adventure. Your spirits must be on a high.
We just got back from the Seattle area with plenty of back roads/highway travel through towns seemingly untouched by time, and vistas that thrilled the 91′ year old artist on board the Motornhome. Dad @ 87′ did some of the driving only because he insisted, but his concentration isn’t what it was or what is needed on busy I-5.
Fuel/diesel averaged over $7.++, but a steady 50-55_mph gave us a much needed break on fuel costs which were still near $500.00 for 756-miles or about $0.65 a mile and 11 to 12-MPG.
Takeaway(s) from this post.
Boondocking near the South Rim.
No fires near the South Rim.
You have a ‘Hat Pin’ collection(I have a hiking stick medallion collection). My ‘Twisted’ stick was acquired at the Oregon Caves N.A.
The best takeaway.. Your in your element and on the road.
I am happiest when traveling, new places or old. Plus, it’s cooler up here. Glad you got in a little trip. But WOW, those fuel prices hurt.
Great to see the canyon through your lens again! That tower is so iconic and looks like the perfect spot for sunset capturing.
Thanks. It’s so different on this side not facing into the sun all day, but I miss the North Rim’s topography.
Lovely. Beginning with choosing a new Grand edge. Pretty in pink and scrumptious orange glows (not-a-fire). Staying in decommissioned fire tower is on my list. Thanks for Grand tour. Smell if the trees are vanilla or butterscotch.
Thanks. I’ve climbed enough towers, don’t feel the need to sleep in one, except for catching sunset and rise without climbing extra times. The pines smell like cookies to me, that’s close.
Wow, a fabulous post and some amazing photos, we enjoyed every photo here but the last two are the favourites. ‘Your’ nuthatch looks different to ‘ours’! Drive safely, D & N
Thanks. It’s been fun getting a different perspective on the canyon.
Amazing photos of the Canyon and surrounding area. The last time I was at the south rim was in April in the early 90’s and it was tough to get a parking space at any of the overlooks. But hey, you are a Ranger so you know where to go.
I loved the tower. I’ve climbed up to a couple towers when I was a kid and the people that worked there were friends of my parents. Amazing views
Thanks. I get out early to grab spaces, stay long, and it’s not as crowded to the east. I have climbed a few towers but haven’t gotten to the top of this one, yet. Not staffed so can’t go inside. 🙁
So beautiful — many of your photos are painter-like — fine art! Wonderful views, but that fire tower is too scary.
Thanks. The clouds did make the canyon look like a painting. I never did climb the tower all the way.