November 16-18, 2017
Artists Drive Death Valley National Park
As the weather deteriorated at Alabama Hills, in other words snow on the Sierras, it was time to get to warmer climate like Death Valley at or below sea level. But their is that matter of CA190 east climbing not one but two mountain ranges to get there.
The clouds hung low obscuring the Eastern Sierras from view but right before leaving I was gifted with a double rainbow.
Followed by a desert wind on the nose with sandy salts flowing across the road from Lake Owens. The first pass over the Inyo Mountains helped reduce the wind. Sure glad I didn’t need fuel in Panamint Springs at $4.99/gal for diesel.
Then a wicked south wind in Panamint Valley nearly knocked me off the road with a sand blasting strong enough to obliterate much of the view. Remember this is blowing on the side of the camper like a billboard going down the road and on the fridge side so the pilot blew out.
This followed by another climb into clearer air in the Panamint Range and back down into Death Valley with a little less wind.
Stayed the first night at Texas Springs, my favorite of all the parking lot campgrounds in the park. After snagging my campsite I took the Artists Drive which was closed last winter and is now newly paved with maybe some more parking areas along the one way road.
After sunrise I moved to the Stovepipe Wells campground where I would meet friend and fellow Ranger Jeremy late in the afternoon.
The tent area was filling fast along the northern edge of this parking lot camp. Because I’m considered a RV I can’t park along that side but can be nearby along a curb. So I paid for a tent site, hung the receipt and hunkered in watching the dust and sand fly up the valley to the east. It appeared to be moving north away from me but then turned and headed towards camp. I closed the door and windows and hung on tight. Even inside the camper felt like a sand storm. People were grabbing and abandoning tents for their cars. Like a haboob I guess. Not a great day to take photos.
Jeremy got in after dark, took me to dinner, stayed up most of the night watching meteors—saw 11 of them—and in the morning slept in his car instead of fighting the wind to set up his tent.
The next day we visited the recently reopened Keane Wonder Mine with it’s unique mile-long aerial tramway. https://www.nps.gov/deva/learn/historyculture/keane-wonder-mine.htm
While Jeremy worked on his Junior Ranger book I watched a volunteer demonstrate flint knapping in the visitor center courtyard. I earned my Death Valley Junior Ranger badge a few years ago.
Made a quick stop by the Mesquite Sand Dunes but it was getting late and Jeremy planned to BBQ dinner, which he is very good at, so we returned to camp.
And in the morning we both took off our separate ways, me to drive up Mud Canyon on the Daylight Pass Road to explore the ghost town of Rhyolite, Nevada.
Love that drive over the Panamint Mountains. I have seen some amazing flowers there in April. Your wind storm looked very intense! Great photos, as always.
Thanks Sue. I love mountain drives as well and always wish for more places to pull off to really enjoy the views. I had sand dunes on the kitchen counters.
I love Death Valley but I don’t love the wind. So far, my fall has been virtually windless a half state east of the mojave desert. (Sedona and now Tucson). I’m still trying to figure out where is it is and isn’t windy, and why.
Sadly, winter in the SW can mean wind, which I don’t care for either. But it beats being cold. When you figure it out, please let me know.
The fall/winder winds are called Santa Anna winds on the coast, bringing gusts to 100+ mph (lost part of the roof a few years ago). These winds are not only strong but very dry, feeding the wildfire season. When we are out in these conditions we leave the slides in, but I do have a fun little kite to go out and play with.
Those winds that are pushing fire around southern CA are spooky. I have never been in strong enough winds to pull the slides in on the 5er but sure does rock the truck camper about.
That double rainbow shot is fantastic. What a piece of luck. Seems like it would have boded well for your upcoming drive but blowing out your pilot light and feeling like a billboard going down the road (great description) seems like a drive I wouldn’t want to take. But meteors and meeting up with a friend who does great BBQ are definitely good reasons to go for it. Sure glad you were hunkered down during the sand storm. That’s a very descriptive picture at sunset.
Thanks Sherry. The rainbow really was a treat. I’m sure you know that rock n roll feeling of a side wind. The sand was awful.
A lot of changes in Death Valley since we were there way too long ago. Those winds you experienced made me think of what’s going on now in SoCA…. so tragic.
The desert winds can be brutal as we see in southern California. A cousin was evacuated from his Ojai home.
Some beautiful scenery out there. Looks like you could walk over and touch that double rainbow.
I really like the idea of touching a rainbow. Yet it seems always to keep moving away. 😉
I think everyone should visit Death Valley at least once in their life. It truly is like no other place. I think my favorite spot is the Devil’s Golf Course. And, I like Scotty’s Castle mainly because I can’t imagine what it took to carve out a life in such a place.
Yes, Death Valley is yet another one of those unbelievable national parks. I am in awe of the depths and heights.