I’ve struggled writing about Manzanar, but I have much to say. Not only an inspiring history lesson but a look into my own soul. Manzanar National Historic Site took me by surprise. I was prepared to be sad, but instead felt disturbed that this could even happen, and inspired by a people who accepted their plight. Had someone told me to pack what I could carry and move, I’d have been kicking and screaming. Instead these quiet and accepting Japanese people did as they were told with very little dissent in an effort to show their patriotism. “Nani mo dekimasen” nothing can be done.
“I was put into a camp as an American citizen, which is against the Constitution because I had no due process…It was only because of my ancestry.” –Margaret Ichino Stanicci
Seems every wave of immigrants who move to America suffer through fear driven prejudice by many of our citizens who can probably trace their heritage to another land. Even before WWII, anti-Asian sentiment was strong and especially in the western states. Japan’s December 7, 1941, attack on Pearl Harbor intensified hostilities toward people of Japanese ancestry. Then on February 19, 1942, President Franklin D. Roosevelt authorized the military to remove “any or all persons” of Japanese ancestry living on the west coast to one of the ten War Relocation Centers. Ten thousand people were incarcerated at Manzanar, two-thirds of them were American citizens by birth. They traveled by train, bus and private car to their new home, the abandoned town site of Manzanar, California.
The Manzanar visitor center is located in the original gymnasium and one of the best I’ve seen. The National Park Service added an annex for information, theater, and sales where I received my Junior Ranger book, the hardest one I’ve ever done next to Joshua Tree for very different reasons. First watched the emotional 22-minute film, The Ides of Trump, which I highly recommend. Don’t think anyone walked out of that theater with a smile. Some, like myself, had tears in our eyes. I feel so ashamed that President Roosevelt made this decision on behalf of the American people even though we were engaged in war with Japan. I respect the 120,000 people who were incarcerated at all ten of the “retention centers” across the US with most in the west. I am disturbed thinking this could happen again.
This huge image greeted me to the display room like a slap in the face. I wandered through the huge room which shared multiple sides of the story with the emphasis on the people who were born, lived, loved, worked, married, and died at Manzanar. I felt overwhelmed with an ache in my heart. I couldn’t read it all. Every display had a huge impact. I simply perused as each display worked deeper into my soul. Besides I wanted to drive the 3-mile self-guiding tour before closing at sunset and planned to return the next morning when the experience became even more moving.
The landscape currently looks nothing like the community it became yet there is evidence from the past. The camp was built on land then owned by the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power and was arranged into 36 blocks with 14 barracks each that housed up to 300 people. Initially, each barracks had four 20×25’ rooms with eight people per room. An oil stove, a single hanging light bulb, cots, blankets, and mattresses filled with straw were the only furnishings provided. Everyone ate in a mess hall, washed clothes in a public laundry room, and shared latrines and showers with little privacy. Over time, people personalized their barracks and the blocks evolved into distinct communities. The 500-acre housing section was surrounded by barbed wire and eight guard towers with searchlights plus patrolled by military police. Outside the fence, military police housing, a reservoir, a sewage treatment plant, and agricultural fields occupied the remaining 5,500 acres. The original town of Manzanar, Spanish for apple orchard, was first developed as an agricultural community in the early 1900s with over 20,000 fruit trees. Before that native Paiutes lived here. The one thing all these people had in common was relocation.
Seems the Japanese culture encourages living in nature, something we could all learn from, even in crowded environments gardens can provide that connection. Moved to a desolate desert scattered with sage brush at best after the scraping of the land to build housing, mess halls, hospital, laundry facilities, latrines, school, church, orphanage, and administrative buildings had to be a shock to everyone’s system. The wind blows more than frequently in the Owens Valley making for dust everywhere. Yet people still created gardens for pleasure with running water in pools and waterfalls. Stone lined paths. Anything to bring a sense of “normalcy” to their lives. Some were outside a families’ barracks, others were built for the community. The National Park Service is working on renovating some of the gardens and re-vegetation. I spoke to a park arborist at the Arai fish pond, a personal garden, and he said the pond may never have water but the plan is to replant the garden, “Anything is better than sagebrush.” Many of the huge old black locust and cottonwood trees are dying and being cut down. Yet new sprouts will turn to saplings and someday provide shade once again.
“You could face away from the barracks, look past a tiny rapids toward the darkening mountains, and for a while not be a prisoner at all. You could hang suspended in some odd, almost lovely land you could not escape from yet almost didn’t want to leave.” __Jeanne Wakatsuki Houston
I walked around Merritt Park, once an oasis of beauty and solitude for a crowded, confined community. Meandering paths and waterways, bridges, lawns, and flower gardens filled its 1.5 acres. I could hear children laughing, couples intimately whispering, a basketball game being organized. I didn’t take many photos, ignoring the camera ever hanging at my side. It almost felt intrusive. Yet now as I write this, I have the desire to return, looking at this physical display of history with different eyes.
Manzanar was a community were life went on. The War Relocation Authority (WRA) formed an advisory council of internee-elected block managers. Internees established churches, temples, and boys and girls clubs. They developed sports, music, dance, and other recreational programs. Most internees worked in the camp. They dug irrigation canals and ditches, tended acres of fruits and vegetables, and raised chickens, hogs, and cattle. They served as mess hall workers, doctors, nurses, police officers, firefighters, and teachers. They made clothes and furniture for themselves and camouflage netting and experimental rubber for the military. Professionals were paid $19 per month, skilled workers received $16, and non-skilled workers got $12. Many pooled their resources and created a consumer cooperative that published the Manzanar Free Press and operated a general store, beauty parlor, barbershop, and bank.
One hundred and fifty men, women, and children died in Manzanar. Fifteen were laid to rest in the cemetery outside the barbed wire fence in the shadow of Mt. Williamson. The Japanese characters read “Soul Consoling Tower”.
Being my first day’s visit was on March 15th, “The Ides of Trump”, a day activists were encouraged to send a postcard to #45 to show our concerns, I bought a postcard, wrote “Don’t Let This Happen Again” on the back, and mailed it from Independence, California. Then spent the night just outside of town at the Inyo County Independence campground.
I returned the next day. Working on my Junior Ranger book required that I actually read more of the display signs. Before people were sent to Manzanar, and other camps, each family was assigned a number and given tags. I took a tag then walked through the displays discovering more about Nawa Munemori. Nawa was born in Japan and arrived to Manzanar with three of her five grown children. She hung an American flag in the window daily, until her son who fought in Italy died along with a bit of herself. 
Yes, I did work hard learning to earn my Junior Ranger badge. Plus enjoyed an educational discussion with both a Ranger and a young woman interning from the Student Conservation Association. Sure would like to see more national park sites offering a “Not so Junior Ranger” program to kick the learning curve up a notch or two.
Next I walked through the two reconstructed barracks. A man of possible Asian decent with his two children had just walked out of #2 onto the basketball court. The boy found a bin of basketballs and joyfully began to shoot for the hoop. Had I just transported in time? I wondered if this family visited Manzanar in tribute to ancestors. His enthusiasm was contagious as I felt my first smile since visiting this tragic place.
The Manzanar camp closed on November 21, 1945, three months after the war ended. Yet despite freedom, many internees took decades to rebuild their lives and rarely spoke about the experience. The government removed most of the structures burying the gardens. Nature began to take over. Beginning in 1969, a group of activists lead by Sue Kunitomi Embrey who had lived in Manzanar, formed the Manzanar Committee which pushed for the creation of Manzanar National Historic Site established in 1992. Yet in the 1980s this mistake was recognized by a Congressional authorized commission concluding that “race prejudice, war hysteria and a failure of political leadership” led to this incarceration. Between 1990 and 1999, the US government issued over 82,000 apology letters and redress payments to Japanese Americans.
“I have come to a conclusion after many, many years that we must learn from our history and we must learn that history can teach us how to care for one another.” –Rose Hanawa Tanaka
Let us hope a lesson can be learned from places like Manzanar and not ever let this happen again.
To see what life looked like in Manzanar check out these photos by Ansel Adams in 1943.
Oh my, Gaelyn…thank you for posting this. FDR really allowed himself to go in the opposite direction of his first inaugural address by fearing “fear itself”. Indeed, history seems to be repeating itself.
After reading this, I googled the subject and came up with an excellent 2/15/17 Newsweek article by Alexander Nazaryan. it saddens me to read about the political views of the people in the surrounding communities, given that they have such a striking history lesson sitting in their backyards. One thing is for certain: the struggle for freedom from our own fears is ongoing and more formidable than any outside force could ever hope to be.
I would believe this dying ranching area turned tourism would be red. Many don’t learn from history because it didn’t happen to them.
FDR was pressured by the politicians on the west coast to do this. He didn’t want to. Unfortunately it looks like he did it.
The people back then were afraid these people,swearing their loyalty to the USA,would turn on their country if the Japanese tried to invade. The people this was done to did everything in their power to show loyalty. There were WWI veterans and the young Men who joined the service fought with distinction against the Germans in Italy. None of this mattered to the people who were scared!
Thank you for this moving and thoughtful post. I hope that we’ve learned a lesson but there are many times that I doubt it. Mary Lou
People tend not to learn from history unless they are personally affected.
What a timely visit given the current unleashing of hatred. Your sadness is palpable in the tone of this post. It honors the suffering of the victims. The whites only sign reminds me of Germany and the American South. Man’s inhumanity to man. How can we continue to do this? Like the Holocaust museum, I must see this but know it will be extremely hard. The story of the woman with the American flag in her window was powerful. I wonder if I could be so forgiving and understanding in the midst of such cruelty.
The story and site saddened me like no other. Guess I need to visit more historic sites. People can be so cruel.
Although I’ve fallen in love with the beauty of Owens Valley, today’s high winds and dust make me sympathize even more with the living conditions at Manzanar.
Such a sad time in our countries histories. But what a wonderful job the Historic Site did explaining and sharing this event. I’m so glad they unearthed the garden. It is beautiful even without plants.
I can finally reply on the blog!!
The story told here is poignant in current times and the Park Service has done, and is still doing, a great job. The most provocative visitor center I’ve ever seen.
So what did you do differently to post?
A lovely tribute to a place of shame. I have always been torn about my feelings for Ma nzanar. Part of me understands the hysteria at the time towards anything Japanese and the other part cries for what was done to American citizens. George Takai of Star Trek fame was held at Manzanar and has created a beautiful play called “Allegiance”.
My Mom lived in Long Beach, Ca during the war and she remembered seeing a large truck pull up in the middle of the night and several neighbors loaded up and never to be seen again. There is a yearly gathering for survivors held at Manzanar. A definite black scar on American history.
Thank you Gaelyn for a wonderful piece on Manzanar.
Know what you mean. There is two sides to this story. I haven’t seen Allegiance yet. A friend’s parents and grandparents were there. I saw their names on the wall and cried. When the teaching of history becomes personal we learn more.
Hope you’re feeling better.
Thanks Gaelyn,
This crud is still lingering. We also found the name of someone my husband worked with. It does really put it in a different perspective when its someone you know. The Vietnam War memorial wall was my most emotional reaction to a time in history. Knew too many names.
Have you gone to Mammoth to see what 500 inches of snow looks like !!
I would be sure to know many names on the Vietnam War memorial wall. Not going that far north. Don’t really like snow up close. Take care of yourself.
Gaelyn: Highly recommend seeing Allegiance if when you get a chance. Very, very moving.
I will see Allegiance when able. Especially more meaningful after this visit to Manzanar.
The site languished in decay until 1992, the NPS has done a remarkable job of restoration to preserve this moment of history. Ansel Adams published Born Free and Equal, which also languished in our Library of Congress. Seems that many wanted to just bury the memory, glad that Manzanar was chosen as a Historic Site to remind us of how wrong we as a people can be when judging others.
NPS has told the story well, as they usually do. This visit was a poignant reminder of what can happen when we judge others by their heritage.
Great article, great comments! – sad reminder . Hope we have learned this lesson in these
unstable times. We are Americans, but more than that we are all human
It would be nice if we learned to treat each other as the human we’d like to be treated as. Thanks for the comment.
Excellent post. Many of the same conflicted, infinitely sad waves washed over me when when visited the remains of the Heart Mountain internment facility in Wyoming.
This must not happen again!
Thanks Page. Extremely sad times in our history. When will we learn?
This was a very moving place for us too. This “anti person of any culture but white” movement in our country right now is too close to the past for me. We are all from immigrant stock in this country but people don’t want to admit it. It would make all of us human with the same feelings, needs and lives.
I will always fail to understand why people think of their own privilege only.
This is a really powerful post Gaelyn, we both enjoyed it. We had heard of Manzanar but had no idea just how badly they were treated. Thanks for sharing and yes lets hope a lesson has been learnt. Have a good week Diane and Nigel
Thanks Diane, it’s a powerful place.
I too was most touched by the spirit of the Japanese people. While the camps are a testament to the lows humans can reach out of fear and hatred, they also remind us that we are all capable of rising above the very worst to be our very best. I agree the film was very well done, and I think it should be required viewing in every history class in the country. Especially now. The basketball pic is perfect in so many ways.
I was blown away by these people’s patriotism under the circumstances. Agree, this film should be shown in history classes, and beyond. Thanks, the kid throwing the basketball made my day.
Hello, Gaelyn! How ironic that just a little over an hour ago, I posted a comment to you about my plans to visit Manzanar. Then I opened this blog a bit later and I am transported there in seconds through your blog. Your words really hit home. As I kept reading, there were moments when my Adams Apple did not know where to position itself. Your pictures and words truly convey this sad travesty in our history. The photo of the young lady under the horrible, racist sign brought to the front the racism that is bubbling to the surface over the past few months. Then your note about the Japanese mother incarcerated at Manzanar displaying the flag daily while her son was fighting as a member of the U.S. Army and paying the ultimate price is truly an emotional read. It is incredible that with thousands of our U.S. Citizens of Japanese ancestry locked up in these camps, the Japanese community in the U.S. formed the heroic, highly decorated 442 Regimental Combat Team. I may be wrong, but I think the 442nd was the most highly decorated unit in the U.S. Army. Thank you, Gaelyn
I thought you had read this piece when I read that comment. I felt choked up through the entire visit yet could only smile when I saw the young boy playing basketball. I believe you are right about the 442nd. Will be interested on your take of this site.
What is hugely tragic is the we have not learned from these horrible actions. Trump is doing the same to Muslims, and Mexicans.
If people are not personally affected, they often ignore history. It’s sad.
Love the post and your photography Gaelyn…we also shared your takeaway of Manzanar…ignorance, pain, suffering and anger noted in our own post during our stay at the Alabama Hills in April 2016. The beautiful visitor center embraces you like a good book…you just can’t put it down, so much to read, understand and digest. I did not want to leave. Brought back many childhood memories of the challengers I faced due to my own heritage.
Thank you Michael. I don’t know how anyone could leave Manzanar without feeling something. The best visitor center I’ve ever seen.
We were both also very saddened by our visit to Manzanar, but were glad we went.
I’ve been unable to post comments again, also, but this time it looks like it will go through. Have no idea why.
I think places like Manzanar should be required field trips for school kids. Sure wish I could figure out the commenting thing.
It amazes me that they didn’t get bitter by their treatment. Instead they did the best they could with what they had. I’ve read elsewhere that many of them did not get anything for the property that they had to leave behind. This is a story about America that we cannot forget.
I would have been bitter, angry, and probably shot. They got very little if anything for their property before being incarcerated. Do watch the film I linked to. It’s incredibly moving.
Thank you Gaelyn — I’m without adequate words.
We can’t forget and we can’t let it happen again. Can we?
I understand. No we can’t!
My visit to Manzanar was life-changing when I visited in 2006. Thank you for taking me back. I recently watched the musical Allegiance about this period in history, starring George Takei and loosely telling his family’s story. I highly recommend it – it’s the first mainstream piece of culture to tackle this chapter in our history.
Manzanar is a place like no other. Everyone should visit to put this sad piece of history in perspective, especially under the current administration. I do need to see Allegiance. Thank you for leaving a comment. Looks like you two are enjoying a great adventure.