After a walk around the ruins we left Hovenweep at noon, took a spectacular drive over Comb Ridge and across Comb Wash before arriving at Natural Bridges National Monument around 3pm, unfortunately no space at their 13-site first come first serve campground.
In fact Comb Ridge will be a great place to return for future explorations for both the geology and archaeology. The towering monocline displays colorful layers of rock tilted skyward dating back to 280 million years old. Tilted at an angle of almost 20 degrees this sandstone formation is nearly one hundred and twenty miles long and one mile wide. This cataclysmic upheaval of earth in the Navajo language Tséyíkʼáán is translated as “Rock Extends in the Form of a Narrow Edge.” So much more descriptive than Comb Ridge.
These jagged and weathered crags loom 300-900 feet above the plains.
Then we descended into the northern part of Comb Wash surrounded by sculptured towers of sandstone and Cedar Mesa in the distance. Many side canyons with ancient cliff dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloans feed into the wash. Yet another reason to return.
And then there’s Cedar Mesa which encompasses the park and a huge area to the south of Highway 95 where there are even more canyons and archaeology sites to explore.
All this beauty and we weren’t even to our next stop Natural Bridges National Monument.
Finally arrived to Natural Bridges National Monument with a view of White Canyon. When we pulled into the Visitor Center there were at least 10 bright lime-green and purple “Juicy” rental vans in the parking lot. We were told it was a bunch of geology students. Can’t believe I forgot to take photos.
Picked up a Junior Ranger book and we took off on the 9 mile (14.5 km) paved one-way Bridge View Drive with overlooks. First stop Sipapu Bridge which from a distance wasn’t easy to spot even being the second largest natural bridge in the world (Rainbow Bridge in Glen Canyon is bigger) spanning 268 feet (82 m), 31 feet (9.5 m) wide and 53 feet (16 m) thick.
The 1.2 mile (1.9 km) Sipapu Bridge trail described as the steepest in the park including stairs, ladders and switchbacks with a 500 foot (102 m) change in elevation goes to the oak grove beneath the 220 foot (67 m) high bridge. I’d like to see it from that perspective given more time.
In Hopi mythology, a “sipapu” is a gateway through which souls may pass to the spirit world. But the bridge was named President in 1883 by Cass Hite a placer gold miner on the Colorado River who explored White Canyon from there. And Augusta by Horace Long who explored the region in 1904 renaming the bridge after his wife. Then in 1908, William Douglas led a government survey party to map the exact boundaries of the new national monument renaming it the Sipapu Bridge.
A quick stop at Horsecollar Ruin Overlook but not even down the 0.6 mi (1.0 km) walk for a better view of the cliff dwelling in a large alcove near the bottom of the canyon. We really didn’t plan enough time, plus it’s not a dog friendly place. The second, Kachina Bridge previously named Senator and Caroline, we blew off because the parking was overrun with Juicy vans.
Last overlook my favorite Owachomo Bridge, considered the oldest or at least most eroded of the three bridges because of it’s narrow thickness of only 9 feet (3 m) with a span of 180 feet (55 m) and 27 feet (8 m) wide. Although the exact age of the bridges is difficult to determine due to variations in erosion rates due to climatic conditions. Does look a little precarious.
The original road into Natural Bridges approached Owachomo Bridge, meaning “rock mound” in Hopi after the rock formation on top of the southeast (left) end of the bridge, from the opposite side ending at a campground and tent-like visitor center. Owachomo also went through name changes from Congressman and Edwin. Silly explorers.
After driving the loop with quick stops at the overlooks like bloody tourists we returned to the Visitor Center where I received my Junior Ranger Badge, #19.
I’d like to return and hike the 8.6 mile (13.8 km) loop trail which passes all three bridges.
With no campsites available in the monument we retraced our drive heading east back over Comb Ridge and headed to Blanding having decided to treat ourselves to a hotel for the night. Had dinner at a so-so Thai/Chinese restaurant and after taking five minutes to ‘cruise’ Blanding think it a very appropriate name for a “bland” little town. Yet a comfortable bed and long hot shower set us up for our next day’s explorations over Elk Ridge to The Needles in Canyonlands National Park.
“… a “sipapu” is a gateway through which souls may pass to the spirit world.” I always love reading/learning the legends of the past. Natural Bridges is one we haven’t yet visited, very nice to see the photos. Love your last photo, looks as if you’re going to drive right into the rock.
I like to learn both the natural and cultural history of a place. Believe me, it felt like we were going to drive right into that rock.
Spectacular photos, such different country to what we have here. I still think one day…….
Keep well Diane
Thanks Diane. I hope you can visit the States one day, but in the meantime I’ll keep sharing.
Nice little jaunt with great pics. It has been 30 years or so since I have been. I remember it being overrun with people back then.
Thanks. Every park we visited, except Hovenweep, was overrun.
What wonderful scenery so beautifully translated to me through your lovely pictures. Bummer about the campground. I think 3:00 is nearly always too late to walk in anymore. Seems to me there are a LOT more people traveling in RVs and tons more full timers than when we started. At least Comb Ridge wasn’t named after some dead white guy like most things although a Native name as they finally did with the bridges would be best. Your picture of Owachomo is just fabulous. I would love to do both the hikes you mention, the short and steep and the long by the bridges. Thanks for putting them on my list and for leading the way to Junior Ranger badges. I never even thought about doing that until you did. Can’t think out of the box that it’s only for kids I guess.
Thank you Sherry. We Really should have known about getting park campsites. There are more RVers, tenters, and people out visiting parks from what I’ve seen lately. The word is out about our great lifestyle to boomers and others. Hope you started collecting your Junior Ranger Badges this summer. It’s a wonderful way to learn and a fun souvenir you earned. I display mine on a valance in the living room.
Definitely a lovely route even before the bridges! Love the native names and meanings so much more – and the history of the name changes is great 🙂 Several Jucy RV vans in this area as well – their bright colors a doing a good job of advertising on the road. While the crowds of summer are definitely gone, I’m still surprised by the number of folks “out here”, especially during the week with kids.
Although I want to return to hike at Natural Bridges I could spend way more time bushwhacking outside the park. The Juicy is a great idea especially for foreign visitors but I wouldn’t want to be in something so loud, proclaiming “I am a tourist”. Fall is a favored time for many to travel, seniors, foreigners, young without children, and home-schoolers.
I love this area, and you showed it well in your photos. Sounds like it was busy when you visited. Are you back in Yarnell?
Thank you Barb. I want to explore this area so much more. Seems all the SW parks visited are very busy. I’m camping out at Bill’s in Kanab, UT while waiting for work to be done on my 5th-wheel. Hope you are well.
I love that you collect your junior ranger badges. You’ve got a long way to go to catch up with some of those kids I see on facebook, though. 🙂
I got a late start collecting Junior Ranger Badges. Wish I started as a kid but didn’t go to parks until a young adult and didn’t know about this great program until I became a Ranger. Sure is fun.
Wow…..so tempting; so many parks, so little time. I especially like that beckoning road shown in the #2 photo and the last one. Both stunners.
Thanks. Hard to go wrong in these beautiful landscapes. Too many parks in too little time. Now I want to go back to every place.
Absolutely beautiful photographs, Makes me want to take a trip there! It’s funny about the Junior Ranger badges, my kids did those when they were young. It never dawned on me to do those as an adult. Thanks so much for sharing.
Thanks, the journey there was every bit as beautiful as the monument. I didn’t visit parks as a kid so I’m making up for lost time.
This is one of our favorite areas of the country. We stay in Bluff when visiting and drive to various trailheads in the rectangular section there. Natural Bridges hike is amazing and the climb down for the first bridge is way too much fun!! Seeing the bridges from the under side sure gives their size prespective. Yes, you need to return:) We have been in that area of the state twice and have stayed for a couple weeks each time. We will return again next spring because I still have so many places that need to be explored. The ruins are amazing.
And now thanks to Suzanne and her “secret” location, I have a mystery to uncover and miles of searching ahead me in the spring! The places you took her were amazing! Southern Utah is where I belong and have the most fun. We spend several months there each spring when out west. I never get enough of those rocks and am always finding new places to explore. Thanks for peaking my curiousity:)
I can certainly understand why you love this country. I so want to go back and stay exploring for a while. No special feature or “secret” needed because all the land is spectacular.
Every time I read a post from you about a place like this I wonder if there is an Earth Cache (a virtual geocache linked to geological attractions) at that location. You should geocache.
I’ll bet there are geocaches everywhere I go, just haven’t gotten into it.