After leaving Knysna where I finally got to meet fellow blogger Jo I backtracked to Storms River Mouth Tsitsikamma National Park. No, not to go ziplining again, but to just enjoy this exquisite coastline for a couple of days.
Treating myself
During my 2010 visit I spent a few rushed hours at Tsitsikamma and promised myself a return.
I called ahead and booked a chalet requesting a porch view of the Indian Ocean. This was not the most expensive option but definitely more than I usually spend. But then it did come with all the comforts, and I deserved it.
After checking in I went to lunch enjoying the view where Storms River Mouth meets the sea.
I wanted to relish a lazy day so only went for a little afternoon walk along the rocky shore.
Then returned to my chalet and spent the evening watching the waves.
Plus a few birds.
And a glorious sunset.
I loved it so much that after choosing another chalet, for a few dollars less even closer to the beach, was able to reserve for another night.
Taking a hike
Having to wait until afternoon to move into my beachfront chalet I decided to take a short hike to the suspension bridges on The Mouth Trail. Only a few steps from the beach located below the restaurant where the trail begins, a small waterfall trickles into a shallow pool surrounded by the dense forest.
Most of the trail is raised boardwalk which I respect for the land even though I like my feet on the ground.
Thick and almost impenetrable lush growth covers the rocky landscape not far from the shore.
After many scattered views of Storms River flowing into the Indian Ocean the trail abruptly opens to steep steps, down to the suspension bridges.
I’m OK with heights and bridges where I walk softly with frequent stops to enjoy the experience and view.
But I don’t appreciate when mutual walkers on the bridge decide it’s fun to make it rock, usually in an attempt to scare their hiking companion. (Read guy and girlfriend.) Makes it very difficult to take sharp photos. Long enough and I’d feel seasick. Looking up Storms River reminded me of another view I’d seen of this narrow gorge from the Paul Sauer Bridge.
The escarpment on either side of the river reaches a height of 590 feet (180 m) and the Viewpoint Trail continues 1.24 miles (2 km) up to a lookout point on the plateau which I decided to pass on.
Instead I marveled at the cobblestone beach, driftwood, tiny life, and the water.
Park information says this .62 mile (1 km) loop trail will take 40 minutes and I took almost three hours with stops for views and photos, even pointing out small and not so small things along the trail to seemingly unobservant trail walkers.
I don’t walk trails just to walk or mark off my list. It’s not necessarily about the destination, as the journey along the way is always filled with marvels and exclamations.
Endless wave action
Mostly I sat on the chalet balcony absorbing the ocean’s energy. The crashing waves captivated me for hours, and 1000s of photos trying to catch the splashing waves, the light, the curl, the color.
I don’t really care to swim in the salt water, just listen and watch.
I watched the sun set and rise as wind blew mist off the cresting waves.
My company included seagulls and dassies, or rock hyrax.
And the constantly crashing waves.
Over breakfast on the balcony I watched dolphins frolic just off shore and one sea otter made an appearance in the distance.
After many days of hectic travel I found myself thoroughly relaxed from the healing energy of the sea.
Services and activities
SANParks offers Several options for accommodations and camping within the park. The souvenir shop also sells some basic groceries and the restaurant has a varied and not overly expensive menu with seating indoors or out.
There are several more trails I didn’t take including the famous Otter Trail, a five day walk of 26.4 miles (42.5 km), and the Waterfall trail along the first half day of the Otter trail at 3.9 miles (6.4 km) round trip. But I’ll be back.
Plus many other activities offered in the surrounding area and other parts of Tsitsikamma National Park. This would make a great vacation destination and I could just hang out around this area for weeks.
What a beautiful post this is. Your pictures are just stunning. I too am a slow walker. 2 miles in 4.5 hours the other day. I marvel at how others can move along so quickly. How really lucky for those who can spend weeks, months or years in such a gorgeous place as this is. Thanks so much for showing it to me. It’s is just the sort of place I would find absolutely perfect.
Why walk fast and miss all the beauty. I could spend a lot more time here. And you’d love it.
.62 miles in 3 hours is just my speed, too, but would have scampered across that bridge if someone was making it sway.
I could have sat and watched those dolphins all day.
Thanks for the memories. I have spent two holidays camping at Storm’s river and I now feel almost like I have spent a third one there as well. I so enjoyed this post. Have a good week Diane
I really want to return there and spend even more time once again. But this time maybe camping.
how wonderful to have a glimpse into your journey. your photos are a joy to see. The little hut you stayed in is charming and perfect with beautiful views. wishing you beautiful days and nights.
Thank you Tammie. I hope to return and camp next time.
Oh Gaelyn,
Those park photos were terrific. Looks like an amazing place to stay. Love the little ground critters, didn’t know they were called Hydax. The bridge system for hiking/walking was amazing, but I agree with you that wouldn’t be fun if someone started to swing it.
So enjoy your travel pix.
Take care.
Rosemary
Thanks. I want to stay even longer next time.
Yes you DID deserve it!! The glass of wine was a wonderful idea too. My goodness but the Hyrax are fat!! 🙂 An excellent post Gaelyn full of beautiful pictures and information.
I think these Hyrax are well fed. We need to camp here.
Beautiful place… Nice to have all the amenities once in a while and the place where you stayed looks like it did for sure. But those heavenly views and the ocean and the hike are what really made it special…your pictures are phenomenal. Wonderful to have the ocean and moe woodsy area so close together.
Tsitsikamma provides the perfect balance of forest and sea. Especially as I’m really more of woods gal.
One of your best posts, I think. Stunning photos. Love the waves and critters, especially those tiny furry ones.
Thanks Bibi. After I posted this my website went down for a day and I freaked. Worked hard putting this story together. Yes, the Dassies are cute, but rather like our chipmunks they are beggars and pests.
I could spend a few days there chilling out.
Me too so I plan to return.
Just love these water shots. Not sure about the dassies though!
Thanks Barb. The Dassies are rather like our chipmunks, obnoxious pests.
What a stunning location for a well-deserved treat! So nice to keep reliving a trip of a lifetime, until the next one, that is…Lynda
Writing about this last trip causes me to yearn for South Africa. I definitely want to go back.
This is a super post of one of my favourite places in South Africa. I absolutely love the Tsitsikamma and the Tsitsikamma National Park just has it all. Rugged coastline, beautiful forests, rivers and streams, massive cliffs, mountains in the distance and so much more.
I believe I could live here for a while.
Your good with that Nikon Gaelyn, thanks for the show.
Thanks Mick. Practice makes better.
Gorgeous!!! I’m with you on some of the visits. I try to stay within budget but once in awhile it’s okay to splurge….especially on a longer trip. I find myself splurging more on those pretty hotels, etc. I think we had A/C at several of the hotter spots. Before I would rough it:) Love your mosaics.
Considering that camping is about $10-15/nite compared to a nice yet not overly fancy Guest House at $20-30/night I could justify this extravagance.
What a beautiful place! SO much to see. Neat looking trail! The views of the ocean are gorgeous. You picked a great place to stay! Wonderful photos!
And I want to return for longer next.
Fantastic shots. Looks like a great place to explore.
Can hardly wait to return.
Your images and descriptions make me want to book a ticket to South Africa straightaway! I look forward to exploring more of your national park destinations.
Thanks Anita. I highly recommend a visit to South Africa’s National Parks. Have posted about quite a few and more to visit next year.