Being only a 7 mile (11.1 km) hike down the South Kaibab trail to Bright Angel campground us “retirees” were in no rush to hit the trail at the crack of a below freezing dawn. Instead we started hiking Grand Canyon at 10:30am.
Only a little snow on the rim and trail but we still put on our ice grippers then dropped over the edge to descend along switchbacks called The Chimney through the 270 million year old Kaibab and Toroweap limestones.
O’Neill Butte
We continued our descent 1140 feet (348 m) past the 275 million year old Coconino sandstone to Cedar Ridge which sits on 280 million year old Hermit shale. This is a popular 3 mile (4.8 km) round-trip day hike destination where we stopped to snack and enjoy the spectacular views. Already two hours into our hike and only 5 miles (8 km) to go. Feeling good!
O’Neill Butte up close
This butte was named after Buckey O’Neill who prospected in the canyon during the 1890s and promoted the railroad to the South Rim.
The endless views stopped us in our tracks almost every step of the way. Or was it the subtle aching in our knees?
From Skeleton Point (don’t ask why it’s named that) I could see the North Rim in the far distance and with binoculars just make out the Grand Lodge.
Looking over the edge I could even see Phantom Ranch, our destination for the next two nights, nestled in the fall colored trees. So close yet still 3.9 miles (6.3 km) away.
The next 500 vertical feet (150 m) of switchbacks, called The Red and Whites, drop along the 340 million year old Redwall limestone.
I had to remind myself to look back up once in awhile and was rewarded with this natural arch high above.
Yet most important was keeping my eyes on the trail, like at The Tipoff which plunges into the 1600 foot (488 m) deep Granite Gorge. Only 2.3 miles (3.7 km) to go.
With more views…
…at Panorama Point.
Then only 1200 feet (366 m), straight down, plus just over a mile more to the tunnel, Black Bridge and Colorado River through the 1.7 billion year old Vishnu Schist. Oh no, not more down. By now my right knee was very tender.
Once again I could see our destination and it seemed so close at hand. But it wasn’t until after sunset that we walked into Bright Angel campground, 7.5 hours after having left the South Rim.
We were exhausted. This is the first time I’ve had problems with my knees going downhill. Thank goodness we could enjoy a complete days of recovery in the bottom of the canyon before making the climb back out.
Beautiful views, and must be the perfect time of year to do this.. away from the crowds and heat. Really interesting.. thanks.
Gaelyn I am sure that I would spend so long looking at those wonderful views and taking photos that I would never get from A to B. 🙂 Diane
What a fantastic hike. Thanks for taking along your camera and enduring the pain of descent! Baby that knee for awhile.
fun fun fun stuff! what an awesome hike! Love all the pictures. (i'd much rather go uphill than downhill…bugs my knees sometimes, blah).
The two of you are awesome.
Next time, come to New Zealand and do the Tongoriro crossing.
Wow! What a beautiful hike! I'm happy to see it through your photos because I know my knees would never handle it, not to mention my "little" problem of dealing with heights.
Gorgeous pix, Gaelyn. More hiking into GC is definitely on my geological bucket list!
I'm usually just a lurker here, but these photos are so fantastic, I want to say hello and thank you for sharing such beauty.
I'd love to hike into the canyon. Maybe one of these years…
You always have the most beautiful photos from your hikes. I am so so jealous, but I know my knees and my hip aren't going to let me take that hike.
Looks a little chilly up top, but you certainly had some fantastic views.
That much downhill with a heavy backpack makes my knees hurt every time.
Just GRAND, Gaelyn – hope your knees survived! I've hiked that trail and carrying a heavy pack, it does put some tension on the knees and back.
Wow, it would be hard to hike and not photograph everything in sight.
My knees definitely would protest. I carry elastic knee braces always.
Those views are priceless. Stunning. I specially love the view down towards the river and the trees contrasted against the dry surroundings. I could feel the cold in that first photo.
There is snow in December in Grand Canyon?
Rarely is there snow IN the canyon, but at both rims usually a lot.