After hiking down to the bottom of Grand Canyon to Phantom Ranch, reservations required, I didn’t see the river until I left the bunkhouse at 6am to hike out of the canyon and up to the South Rim.
Bright Angel Bridge
Two foot bridges cross the Colorado River. East of camp .5 mile the Kaibab Suspension Bridge leads to the South Kaibab Trail which climbs just under 5,000 feet along a ridge in about 7 miles to top out on the South Rim near Yaki Point. This route offers no water or shade.
Bright Angel Bridge
The Bright Angel Suspension Bridge carries hikers and the transcanyon water pipe across the Colorado River. Water from Roaring Springs is gravity fed to Indian Gardens then pumped to the South Rim supplying all water needs.
Colorado River
I opted for the slightly longer 9.3 mile Bright Angel Trail with three nicely spaced water sources. Then I didn’t have to carry the added weight of four large bottles full of water.
Devils Corkscrew
After crossing the bridge, the sandy River Trail winds above the Colorado for 1.5 miles before veering away from the river up the Pipe Creek drainage to a series of switchbacks called the Devils Corkscrew.
The trail tops out onto the Tonto Plateau to follow Garden Creek to Indian Garden, about a 1500 foot climb. This is a great stopping point to eat, fill water containers and rest for the final 4.6 mile climb up to the top.
Mules at Indian Garden
If you don’t feel up to hiking the canyon you might consider riding a mule. But no matter how you get there and back, something is going to hurt.
Gaelyn with North Rim on horizon
A side trip from Indian Garden 1.5 miles on the Plateau Point Trail leads to a dramatic view of the canyon and river below. Many day hikers make the 12.2 mile round trip from the South Rim.
Looking up to the South Rim
I didn’t add those extra miles.
Jacobs Ladder
After the first rather gentle half mile, there’s a series of tight switchbacks called Jacobs Ladder that continues a 2860 foot climb.
Three-mile house on upper right green ridge, green patch on the flat is Indian Garden
Three-mile House was a welcome sight to stop, rest, eat and fill water bottles. And it meant only 3 miles to go.
Almost to the top
There’s another rest shelter 1.5 miles further up the trail. From there I was so tired I basically walked 60 steps and stopped, 60 steps and stop. In fact being it was Cinco de Mayo I repeated a mantra, “salty crusty Margarita.” I was on the trail for 12 hours, granted not hiking the entire time. I stopped a lot to eat, drink, rest and take photos. I certainly wasn’t the first of my fellow rangers to make the rim, but I wasn’t the last either.After a meal, long soak in a bathtub and a good night’s sleep, I could barely walk in the morning. Yet I attended three days of training before returning to the North Rim to prepare for the summer season.
“Though we travel the world over to find the beautiful, we must carry it with us or we find it not.” –Ralph Waldo Emerson
wow…have to say there is no way i could do that…well, i could but, it would take me a long time…lol.
fab commentary and photos…enjoyed this very much.
thanks so for sharing with us.
I’m very impressed. I wish I had made it to the Grand Canyon when I was younger. I would really would have liked to hike down into the canyon.
Again – WOW!! WOW!! WOW!! Fantastic pictures and info Gaelyn. I think if I was not used to hiking, my legs would be shaking after the first mile. :)Brilliant scenery, it would take me a month to do this trail as I would be looking for and finding all kinds of things to turn my attantion away from the actual hike. I tend to wander all over the show.
Thanks once acain for this wonderful post. 🙂
What an awesome place of unbelievable beauty! Thank you so much for your tour of this trail which would be too big of a hike for me. The devils corkscrew and Jacob’s ladder look interesting. The view in the last photo is breathtaking.
I remember Indian Gardens. Stacey and I stopped there to snack and fill up the water tanks. When we diverged from the trail to go West we came across two bighorn sheep, some deer, and a rattlesnake. While going west, the trail would snake in and out constantly with every new and little side gulch or canyon. I would like to go and spend some time in that little village at the bottom of the canyon. It seems to be like an outpost that time forgot.
Oh, it is such an incredibly beautiful place! Wow! and your photos are fantastic! My knees ached just looking at them! Thanks so much for a really wonderful post!
“But no matter how you get there and back, something is going to hurt.” Good for you! Not many people would undertake such an adventure. I am happy to look at your excellent pictures and imagine that I am on the journey.
You look like you’re hiking strong!
Good choice to take a trail where you didn’t have to carry water.
Beautiful photos! The Grand Canyon is amazing from the top, but so much more so when you expend the time and sweat to hike to the bottom.
Congrats! I would love to do that hike someday….I am now prepared for it..I will take it nice and slow!
and find some sort of margarita mantra..
What a fun trip! Are you looking forward to being back there?? Ah, you are making me think about hiking. The PCT is inching into my mind more and more.
Your post brings back wonderful memories. I’d love to go down the river again or even just make the hike to Indian gardens again. Hubby is feeling his age (74)and he is not anxious for me to make such hikes alone.
Ooooh!! Gayelyn! These are mesmerizing shots! I was thinking, if only…
that is so much fun! if only i can do that for real:) I’d probably be crawling with sore muscles the next day but hey, i think it’s worth it.
I don’t think adjectives can descirbe these to me. Out of this world geology. Quite envious.
I would be willing to be in pain to get to hike here! maybe one day…
Wow, what a great post, superb views and boot camp condensed fitness camp fot you. I should think it also did wonders to the ‘I can’factor’ of your self esteem. After that hike I am sure. not much can daunt you. Hats off!
What a fantastic experience that must have been even if you did feel the trek in each bone of your body. I really snorted with salty crusty Margarita! Oh wow. Great great shots; feel like I was there. Nothing like the great Grand.
Gaelyn, what a spectacular walk and I know exactly what your body was feeling like. I absolutely love to walk but boy do I pay the price. This is beautiful country and your photos are stunning. Thanks so much for sharing.
Smiles
it is just beautiful, did you go out on the glass bridge?
I was sore after the very short hike we took the other day, I know I would never make it across the canyon.
Every journey is meaningful. Your life choices remind people that different options exist other than what you necessarily know about. The outdoorsy existence of your life inspires many people even if they do not feel they could psychologically abandon everything they know.
I recall reading a newspaper story of a family who lived in Geelong, Australia. The parents each had good jobs but they quit, took their kids out of school and opted to travel around Australia for a year in an RV. It was a family bonding time. The kids learned more during that year in rustic terrain with their family than they do in regular school. The family felt they were giving their children a valuable experience and timeless survival skills.
On the one hand, people in their community who read this article after their return found the choice to abandon what they knew as reality to be baffling. They, on the other hand, felt this was the best choice they had ever made. To each his or her own. We can all be grateful for free will and choices.
Great photos Gaelyn! I particularly liked the upward view of the Devil’s Corkscrew. I have a personal nickname for that very last switchback on the Bright Angel Trail before you get to the rim: Heartbreak Hill! Why’d they have to put the longest steepest switchback at the end of the durn trail?! 🙁
Thanks for sharing your memories and photos.
Your hike really brought back memories! I’ve hiked Bright Angel down, camped at Indian Gardens, and continues in the Canyon for a 7 day backpack – it was wonderful! I’ve also floated under the bridge at Phantom in a raft. Lucky you to have a job on the North Rim. I’ll stay tuned!
I had to chuckle at the ‘something will hurt’ comment, yep if on a mule that long you’re butt sure would! I have nothing but admiration for you completing this, no way could I do this without months of getting fit!
Thank you for sharing what it’s like to make that hike.
It was amazing and I’m glad I did it when I still could.