Snowing on South Rim from Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Snowing on the South Rim in the morning

I’d never hiked the South Kaibab trail into Grand Canyon before. It is a steep, 7 mile (11.26 km) ridge trail with no potable water. Not a great place to be during the heat of summer. However, a winter hike on it was ideal.

Camp site Bright Angel campground Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Bright Angel Camp

Unfortunately, my body didn’t quite agree about the idea and was extremely exhausted after 7.5 hours downhill. Plus we basically didn’t get into camp until after dark.

Cabin Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Cabin rental through Xanterra

So the next day, after a very chilly mid 20 degree F night and sleeping in until 8am, we first explored Phantom Ranch.

Canteen Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The Canteen offers food & beverages, full meals require reservations

In 1922, the Fred Harvey Company commissioned Mary Jane Colter to redesign the original tourist camp built by David Rust twenty years earlier.

Mike writing postcard in Canteen Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

We went inside to warm up over a cup of cocoa and write postcards.

Mule pack train coming into Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Everything used and sold here is carried in by mule train, as is all the garbage carried out.

Bridge over Bright Angel Creek below campground and Black Bridge in background Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

After sitting in this warmth for a little while our legs started to stiffen up so we walked back to camp for water and snacks to hike a little ways back up the trail we came down after dark. The Bright Angel campground is nestled between Bright Angel Creek…

Vishnu Schist in Bright Angel campground Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

…and towering walls of 4.7 billion year old Vishnu Schist.

Closeup of quartz in Vishnu Schist in Bright Angel campground Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Closeup of the ancient schist with quartz and granite intrusions

Ranger residence under fall trees and canyon walls Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Ranger residence

Though a remote and rugged setting, this area has long been a destination for humans.

Ancestral Puebloan ruin along North Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Almost 1000 years ago native people called Ancestral Puebloans (Anasazi) built their homes along the river.

Colorado River downstream from Black Bridge Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Can’t say as I blame them.

Black Bridge over Colorado River from Boat Beach Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Yet crossing the swift Colorado River had to be a hazardous undertaking before the National Park Service completed the present Kaibab Suspension Bridge in 1928.

Tunnel at South end of Black Bridge Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

The one-ton, 550-foot- long suspension cables were carried down into the canyon on the shoulders of mostly Havasupai tribesmen who walked single file down the trail while carrying the cables. And I thought carrying a 32 pound backpack was over much!

Colorado River and Bright Angel Creek confluence from South Kaibab trail Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Confluence of Bright Angel Creek and Colorado River

But this day’s little hike was light and easy. And after seeing what was too dark to see the night before we headed back to camp.

South Rim from Phantom Ranch Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Looking up at the snow on the South Rim

Thinking of the next day’s hike uphill. But that’s another story.